3'' suspension with 33's

Are anyone of you out there running 33's with 3' of lift

Im thinking of doing it and want to know home much plastic and metal i will need to cut

Just wondering the pros and cons of running this setup

Since I am nice i will help you out but you really should do a search next time. to fit 33's you will need at least a 2in body lift. you will have to do pretty major trimming. I have a 3in bodylift and had to do some pretty major trimming. you best bet would be to go with a 3in suspension lift, 2in body lift, and 32's. this would give you the best fit.

I don't know about all that. I'm running 32's on a 3" suspension lift with no rubbing issues. Another person in our club runs 33" mud tires on a 3" suspension lift with no body lift either. I do agree though that you should run 32's on a 3" suspension lift. You will have to trim front mudflap and remove the lower portions of all mudflaps.

well I guess I forgot to mention that the backspacing you get makes a difference in how much trimming you have to do

We are both running stock wheels btw.

I have less than stock backspacing and I'm running 33x12.50x15s with a 2" BL and PML that's it.

tyler..how much trimming did you have to do?

Me too, I am running a 4.75 BS, but I am going to go with new wheels at the stock BS

does anyone have anypic of thier trucks with 33's and 3'' sus.

I jst ordered 15'' wheels with 4.75 bs...

Well, it's only a PML, but it does have a 2"BL

Here is how 33/12.5 MT's look with 4.75 BS

so how much lift do you think you have? 3? or 4?

bt the way...your truck looks damn good

Thanks!

Well,
PML=1.5"
BL=2"
Tires=.75" (stocks taped @30.5"OD, new tires taped @32"OD, so: 32"-30.5" /2 = .75")

Approx: 4.25~4.5" above stock

did you say that your going to larger backspacing?

A lot depends on the articulation you run into.

A 32 can stuff w/o a lift if you remove the well plastic.

A 33 sticks out another 1/2", and hits metal on full compression on an oem set-up.

If you are doing mud, or other terrain where you don't get full compression, or your suspension is too stiff to fully compress, you installed bumpstop extensions, etc...that last 1/2" can be kept at bay...but you lost uptravel, etc.

If you do rocks in terrain that you need all the travel, don't have bumpstop extensions or too stiff a suspension to compress fully, etc...then that last 1/2" of uptravel will hit just like w/o an SL.

Of course, every X is a bit different, so that 1/2" might be smaller or larger.

And - some 33's are 32.5", and some are 33", etc...so that also affects that last 1/2".

And - of course, the BS makes a big difference, when the wheel is turned, as the arc it swings through is different, and, on compression, as the tire is now sticking out under the fender more as well if there is less BS.

The section width makes a difference as well, some 33's are 285/75/16's for example, really 33x11.5's, etc...and nominal 33x12.5/15's are tpically less than 33" in diameter...shorter but fatter than the 285's....so they clear differently as well.

So that means you can run 33's w/o a BL under some circumstances, and you can have 31's rub like a bitch with a 3" SL, etc...and everything in between....depending upon the set-ups.

As a rule of thumb - figure the 2" BL to get 33's and full articulation...but there are other ways.

It all depends on the specifics.

well i have 4.75'' backspacing...and looking for the cons of 33's

how much metal will i have to cut, and ccan i put the plastic stripping back on to make it look like i never cut it

I want to go from 4.75 to 5.5 to pull in the tires a little bit more

why...i just bought 4.75

I had to cut like 1-1/4"~1-1/2" or so of metal, no chance of the plastic being put back on, and I still hit upon compression at like a 45° turn, that is why I want to ditch the 4.75's for 5.5's

so would you reccomend 32's or 33's

Well, I like the 33's alot, but I will be happier with stock BS

I would recommend either swap the rims, or go with 32's

Here is a picture of what I trimmed off (metal and plastic)

and with your rims now they rub alot while turning? would trimming more metal work or do you just no want to do that

Well, they don't rub without compression, If I back out of my driveway while turning (slight bump), it will usualy hit. The issue is if you trim anymore you will be sawing into the floor. The backspacing changes the turning arc, the 4.75 sets the wheels further out of the wheel wells.

shoot.

TJ What size tire are you running? I know you have the 3" suspension right? I was also thinking about the 4.75BS but was on the fence about 32 or 33's

If not mistaken he runs 33s with a 3in SL and 2" BL on stock 16 inch rims.

I run a PML with a 2" BL running 33x12.5x15 muds. I run my tires on 00 stock xterra 15" rims, though as I tried to avoid having backspacing issues. I did have to trim metal though to avoid rubbing issues while compressing. I had NO rubbing issues when driving on the road, even while turning and hitting bumps.

Bottom line - stock 00-01 xterra wheels will run fine on road and not rub, just have to take all the plastic off. The less backspacing you have on aftermarket wheel the more metal trimming you have to do. You will have to trim metal on either rim with 33s if you take it offroad.

I'm running 305/70/16's on the stock alloys (7").

They are a bit taller (Full 33"), and a bit wider treaded than the same tire in a 33x12.5/15.

I have about a 3" Sl and 2" BL.

Well I was going to go with a 4.75 backspacing with 33x10.5x15 Maybe i'll just go with a 5 bs

I like the flotation better with the 12.5's...the 10.5's are a bit skinny for me.

The trade off is a bit of turning radius...the 10.5's can turn a bit tighter than the 12.5's.

I tend to stay with the 10.5's due to the fact of running the tires year round....Lake Erie snow storms...don't want something wide for ice and crap like that. and the woods we wheel in there are alot of tight spots that require an extreme turn. and no backing up allowed.

Yeah - that's a factor...I need about an extra foot of radius to turn with the 305's vs the 255 Crappers...not much, but it can make a difference on really tight trails, etc.

Not bogging down is more of an issue than that foot of radius where I tend to wheel, so the 305's work for me.

I'm looking at a set of LTB's in 33x13.5/16 for the next play set.

How far does that come past the wheel well? 13.5 that is.

I'm guess it will stick out ABOUT 1/2 more than the 12.5's...so it might stuff still...then again, the side lugs will be more aggressive on the LTB, so it might stick out a bit more than that, etc.

I have a stuff pic with the 305's somewhere...







So - if you imagine an inch wider tire, that sticks out another 1/2", that's about where it would fit.

Are all those pics with the 3" lift and revolvers?

All with BL/SL...the revolvers were on if the rear carrier was on...as I did the carrier first.



The revolvers make more of a difference on droop than compression performance...and, they also don't stress the leaves on compression as much as a longer shackle....as the revolver folds up, instead of the leaf flattening.



With Revolvers, if you look closely, you can see its only partially unfolded...those shocks were a tad too short (I have longer ones now...).

Yeah, those looked like Calmini in the pic with no carrier...you comin down to Paragon with the UNYX club?

Correct

I'm working towards the UNYX run 12/2.

It will be tight, I have the truck apart at the moment and I'm driving my kid's Subaru while he's at Grad school.

:rolleyes:

I still have a few things to chase down to be ready....mostly lots of smaller projects...like restoring and putting the front suspension and other half of the drive train back on, an exhaust cross over, closing all the holes in my intake, swapping out the clutch slave cylinder, putting the rear drive shaft back in, torching and pounding my skid plates flat, and reinstalling them, and, oh, yeah, seing if the new engine starts, and if so, chasing down codes, etc...and if not, chasing down people I got it from and killing them, etc...



So - I only have a few weekends left to do it all...and, as I said, its tight....but I'm working towards it.

A few weekends..... = 1 actually

fuck

yep

I am running 33's, with 10.5 width with a former 3" lift. I purchased some rims that allow the narrow tire to stuff up into the rear wheel wells.

Cutting: front a good bit of plastic in front of the tire. I took of the plastic behind the front tires and took off a great bit of sheet metal to all stuffing and turning simultaneously.

The rear tires did not require cutting. When the tire is wet, it squeaks when it is stuffed. I have had to trim a little on the inside at about the ten o'clock position because of the tire lugs.. This is plasitic and metal.

I sit really low, given my tires. I want to do a 2" BL, but we will see when I spend money on the truck next.

My suspension is a HALF ASS replacement from a certain manufacturer who sold a 10 leaf spring pack that failed (snapped to the eye) and did not allow for gear to be carried. After a year of fighting, and finally a BBB report did they send a replacement, but that was so much overkill that once, I carried about 3/4 ton of bricks and had NO SAG.

If you want tires wider than 10.5, I would recommend a BL and checking to make sure that they don't have too much up travel.

Todd

You don't hit metal w/33's if there's enough BS....just plastic.

You can just unclip the well liners, etc...and toss them into the garage...cutting is really for when you don't need to get rid of it all...

I spun a T-bar in the Pine Barrens one time, and the front suspension on that side crashed to the stops...and I could still drive it because of the 2" BL...I just drove it off the hill to a level place to repair the anchor...but the 2" BL was all the clearance I had.

do you guys thnk i would have to trim as much if i got 33x10.50

I ran 33x12.50's on 15" stock rims for almost a year with a 3" suspension lift before I did a body lift. All I had to trim was the plastic on the front mud guards. I already had a Shrock bumper, so the front of the wheel well was not a problem.

Offroading, they would rub the wheel wells sometimes, but it never caused any damage. If you stick to stock rims, you will be fine.

i have 4.75 backspacing..thats why i was thinkin 10.5's

I have 4.75" backspacing in my Blue X and 32x10.50's rub with an SL and BL.

I hate to beat a dead horse but.... 4.75 BS, 3"SL and 2"BL+ 33x12.5 BFG M/T's will = rubbing mang. My rig has been put away for the winter but i do plan on doing some metal trimming come spring time. It looks good but is a pain to wheel. Also the ARB rubs like a whore too... so you just cant slap on 33's and go wheelin, much more work then expected. Good luck.

i have a shrock...and ive heard they have more clearence than arb

They do, I had to trim the ARB on my Blue X.

Alright guys, i have it somewhat figured out,

Front: Ball joint spacers, and crank the tbar a little bit

Back: 2 in shackles instaed of the 1.5'' calmini and get a used pair of 3'' leaf springs rather than the 1.5 from calmini

This way would i be able to run 33x12.5's?

Yeah, you can run 33x12.5 with that setup but prepare to cut off some serious metal.

I still had to trim metal with similar setup PLUS a 2" BL. That's with the stock backspacing rims. After market rims with less backspacing will make you cut even more.

ive decided to go with 33x10.5

dont want to cut so much metal!

So sorry to drag this thread on so long...

wait how big is your lift tony? 3 or 3.5?

im talkin about goin to like 4 or 4.5 to run the 33's...

You still need compression room though with 33's...they will hit at the tire tops when you have uptravel.

Really, why not just do a PML And a 2" BL instead of all of this wiggling about?



Even JUST a 2" BL would do it for you with some mud flap mount point trimming.

Then the 33x12.5's would fit anyway.

With your proposed plan...with 33x10.5's, you end up with stock width tires that still hit on compression.

Total lift NOT including tires is around 3.5 or so. I think that you are misunderstanding something here. It's not about how much lift you have, it's about WHAT lift you have and how it works in your favor. Lifts are different such as a suspension lift serves a different purpose from that one of the body lift.

I could run 5 inches of suspension lift (example) and I would STILL hit 33x12.5 when stuffing, because as someone might have already said: suspension does NOT change where your tire stuffs during compression in relation to the fender wells and so on.

Body lift changes the whole perspective.

Save your money and don't go full 3" suspension lift if you need to run 33's. Get a pml and a body lift.

I am running 33x10.5x15 BFG AT's on stock steel rims with a 3" SL. If you plan to go with that setup, here is what I have experienced.

I don't rub in the rear after installing bumpstop extensions. Before I installed the extensions, I rubbed the wheelwell with the tops of the tires under compression.

I had to trim some plastic and metal when I ran larger tires a while ago, but I have plenty of clearance now so you may just have to trim plastic at the front/back of the wheelwells.

If you have an ARB front bumper, you will need to trim about 1.5 inches (at the bottom edge) off the wing to avoid tire rub. I only rubbed with the wheels straight ahead, but I hit hit before fully compressing my tires.

I get a little rub at the top of the wheelwell under full compression, but larger bumpstops (or bumpstop spacers) would prevent that.

what about if i had 4.75 inch backspacing

woudl i still rub if i did what you did

Most likely.

Your wheel travel is already limited...adding bumpstop extensions robs even more of it, taking away uptravel.

When you lose uptravel, you decrease you stability...if the tire is riding up an obstacle (A rock, etc...), and you ahve uptravel...the tire goes up, but the truck stays level....

If you don't have uptravel...the entire truck is tipped up on that corner, as the truck rises WITH the tire, instead of the tire rising (And falling) by itself.

So - you are more likely to flip over...or to be more limited in the terrain you can traverse, etc....if you have bumpstop extensions.

Its simple physics...and there are of course people who have the extensions because it came with the kit...as the kit makers KNEW that their SL would NOT make the larger tires fit...but, as the SL doesn't include a BL...they give extensions instead.

As 99% of those getting lift kits stay on pavement, and mount larger ties...the extensions are OK 99% of the time.

For the 1% who off road...many do not know how much of their tippiness is from the extensions, and probably never thought about it.



What's the problem with the stock rims anyway? They work fine.