calmini steering install pics

Here are a few pictures of the Calmini steering system I took while I was installing it. I will try to do a proper write up sometime soon.

This one just shows the difference between the two idlers.


This is a comparison between the tie rod assemblies.


Here is the idler installed.


Here is the old one with the AC brace for comparison.


New pitman...


There are a couple of things to be prepared for during the install. I talked about most of this before, but in case you missed it. I used a big two jaw puller to remove my idler arm. I tightened the crap out of it,and nearly snapped the bolt with my breaker bar. It did not budge. I then banged on it a little with my BFH and it came right off. The combination of the two seemed to do the trick.

You will also need a 1 5/8" socket or wrench to remove the pitman arm nut. I got mine at Sears. Since I am not a diesel mechanic , i did not have one that big. I have pictures of the puller if anyone wants to see. The first kits were shipped with ok instructions. Just follow them, and you will not have any problems. Setting up the CL correctly is the key to it all.

The only thing I had trouble with was the tie rods. My dad adjusted the old ones, and the jam nuts were tight as all hell! It took a couple of wrenches hooked together, a big crescent wrench, and the bumper of my Landcruiser to get them apart.

Then I started to put the new ones together. The new adjustors are a tight fit. Oil them up before putting the nuts on them. I did, and used my impact to drive them on there. Maybe my Dad stretched the threads in the nuts a little but it took some effort to get them on the new adjustors, and no they were not crossthreaded. The tie rod ends went on easy though. They sure do feel a lot beefier than the stock assemblies once they are together. I got a pic of just the adjusters too. I will upload it in a minute.

Did you loosen the stock tie rod lock nuts when they were still installed on the truck ? It makes it a lot easier.

I have a question. I thought the tie rods were suppose to be longer with the Calmini system but your picture seems to indicate otherwise. Did you just have the ends tightened down too far or am I mistaken?

Looks great though...mine should be here tomorrow.

Ian, no I was a dumb ass and figured that out afterwards. The were tight as hell though. Yes, I had them to short to begin with. I just put them on like that and did my driveway alignment. I forgot to upload the adjuster pic. I will do it tonight.

Very nice. Did the instructions come with torque specs?

Also has anyone else gotten theirs in yet? I'm still waiting and will call XterraParts later today to see where it's at.

...So, you were able to put the tie rod to the tie rod ends easily (for test fitting?), but you had to use an impact wrench to put the nut on? (I'm asking because I was unable to fit some nuts and both inner tie rod ends at all... )

The lock nuts and tie rod ends can be difficult. The threads on new adjusters are very sharp, and the existing nuts and tie rod ends are used, and have been stretched.

We just put the tie-rod ends in a vice, put the nuts on, and turned them with a wrench by hand. Trying to do it while holding them is not that easy.

Do them off the truck, and set them to the measurement CALMINI specifies, then adjust them on the truck after everything is in place.

Without my impct it would have been pretty difficult. I used a 7/8" wrench to hold the middle of the adjuster, and ran the nuts on with my impact. I ran them up an inch or so, then backed them off. I then ran them up a little more and backed off, until they were all the way on. Doing it with an impact gets them real hot, so be careful and take your time. I used some weedeater oil to coat the threads in and it helped. That was the only thing I had around.

I believe one of my tie rods was kind of a booger to get on now that I think about it. I just took my time and worked it on. Be sure to remember that the inners and outers are threaded different. Make sure you are trying to use the correct part for the correct side of the adjustor.

I think some may be more difficult than others depending on the shape of the old parts. Dropping the new adjustor on the floor and bunging up one of the threads won't help either. I won't tell you how I know that though. :rolleyes:

I also just remembered to say to make damn sure the nut threads and tie rod end threads are clean. Having a bunch of crap in them will make it harder.

Strangely, xterraparts charged my VISA last week so I thought my SS was on it's way. I just checked my account and now they have refunded my money? I haven't called them yet but sent an email to Steve. Maybe they just got a little too into the Christmas spirit, uh, unless there weren't enough systems available for shipping las week? I'm pretty sure I was in the top 5 so I would think it shipped.

Me and another guy in my club are still waiting too. I'm just hoping it's the holiday rush on shipping that's taking so long.

Yep, that's me. I'm still waiting as well. I think Steve and I ordered them about the same time. Right after GOX, after we saw the prototype installed on Ian's truck.

Another thing to note:

When both tie rod adjusters are set equally, the driver's side tire is close to straight, but the passenger side is set with extreme toe-in. The passenger side tie-rod adjuster seems to have a lot more threads showing than the driver's side. I don't know why this is... it seems to me that the centerlink (spec'd to be 30-5/8" from end-to-end, measured at the center of the joint) is a little short....

[img]http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0SADeAhsWnzPtd50NEhU4d5PBFG9oqGRC4rsIH9VjBA7QP5*2QeSfwnuOfh!cVzyvg3482lMWAvChCnwboCwwk2Y1Jx5jlA8vwSCv1U*rXc0vAAAAcXJbAg/50_x_steering.jpg?dc=4675399633900419575[/img]

[img]http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0SQDeAoYWWlFMS4dRzJcC6thZG!V8GsiwGOSjzg*C*qgzG9OY32W1FriD2cnBqtBbDCkW!tRPoc24p1UUOtaM2lvSgPPUPTvta*EoXikl3PcjC9kaxvKqGg/53_x_pitmanarm.jpg?dc=4675399633904195964[/img]

Hmm... That does seem strange... Did Akio get an alignment yet? I think if it were me, I would have extended the centerlink till the both the pitman and idler were at 90* with the centerlink. But yeah, that doesn't seem right.

On a side note. I called XterraParts and got some info. They said that Calmini is on vacation till Jan 2nd and that any orders not yet shipped would have to wait till then (this was a guess from the staff at XterraParts). BUT, it turned out that mine arrived today, so if you haven't gotten yours yet, sit tight, it may be in transit. If not call Calmini or XterraParts about it on Jan 2nd.

BTW, if you think the idler arm is impressive in the pictures, wait till you see it in real life! The thing must weigh 10 lbs and would hurt really bad if you dropped it on your foot! Also it must be atleast 3x the size of the old unit.

Mine was the same way with the tie rod lengths. I took it to the alignment shop and let them fix it. I have not checked the lengths since then though.

I did go off roading for about ten minutes tonight and hits some nice big ruts and holes with it. I banged on it pretty good, and it is fine so far. I plan to really test it this weekend in San Antonio though.

After helping with an install of this product, I have a feeling people may start having to replace worn tie-rod ends more often, and may even possibly damage the frame!!

The centerlink length will need to be adjusted. In theory, both tie rods should be identical in length, so steering is even in both directions. Adjusting the centerlink length incorrectly can lead to adverse ackerman conditions though, which could cause odd handling. Best to wait and let CALMINI verify the length of the centerlink.

Are those pictures of CALMINI's Xterra ? That's a prototype system, and the splines were off a bit, so one adjuster had to be longer than the other to help center the steering wheel.

What makes you think that?

Perhaps a silly question...What additional parts would I need to purchase to have new parts side to side? It looks like a few things are missing in the photo and I would prefer to do it all while I'm in there. I am mainly concerned with factory wear items like TR ends I/O not brackets.

btw: thanks to who posted the photos.

Because the Calmini parts are so d@mn beefy that the tie-rod ends (and possibly the frame) are now the weakest link!

We followed the supplied instructions precisely, which state that the centerlink should be 30-5/8" long. This length, however, results in the idler arm angled inboard more when the pitman arm is straight.

Our installation looked nearly identical to the configuration shown on Calmini's X (prototype or not), with the driver's side adjuster showing far fewer threads than the passenger side.

You probably don't need any additional parts, although extra tie-rod-adjuster nuts would be handy, in case you strip one.

Other tips:
*you can remove the inner tie rod ends and centerlink from the pitman/idler arms by whacking the socket (on the arm itself) with a hammer. A puller is not necessary.

*do NOT pound on the top of the threaded stud of the tierod ends, or you risk damaging the threads and making it difficult to rethread the nuts back on.

*the Calmini tierod adjusters are VERY tight. We had to use a 22mm deep socket and air-driven impact wrench to thread the nuts on all the way to the inside. I do not recommend the use of hand tools for that part of the job. When threading the nuts on, they will get HOT, so be careful. I'm not sure why Calmini made the tierod adjusters so tight. You practically don't even need the nuts to keep them from turning in the tierod ends.

Right, providing I didn't wan't to reuse anything and wanted a simple direct setup and install allbeit for a bit more money, I would need...?

I'm not sure it's worth the hassle to swap parts over (for me), I would rather take it out enmasse and install likewise. I could wait until it gets here and do an inventory, but that would delay install waiting for parts.

I'm just being lazy and asking for a list from those who have done it When is yours going on Dean? It shouldn't be that rough to get the parts you would need.

The only extra parts you need are new cotter pins for your tie rod ends. You are right about the adjustors, they are a bitch to put together. I have put abput 500 miles on mine now.

They didn't. The problem stems from putting old, worn, stretched nuts on brand new threads. Replacing the nuts would make it easier.

Mine couldn't be threaded by hand, but I could do them easily with a wrench.

You would need 2 tie-rod assemblies.

$90 each from Xterra Parts

I replaced one since I had 2 worn tie rod ends on the passenger side.

Finally got to go outside in the rain to take some pictures.

The next two pictures shows what you should not do...(use stock tie rod adjusters). :p Not recommended even for a short time...





On the 1st day, Xplorx4 and I had a hard time putting Calmini adjusters in. It became too late, and I had to leave his garage, so the stock tie rod adjusters were put on only for temporarily. As you can see and mentioned earlier, because the end of the Idler arm is closer to the frame than that of the Pitman arm, there is more gap between inner and outer tie rod ends on the passenger side. As a result, only about 1/2" of threads were able to be inserted into the tie rod ends on the passenger side verses about 1" on the driver side.

On the 2nd day, we used the air tool, and managed to put the Calmini adjusters on.

Following pictures were taken after the alignment was done.





Notice the distance between the Pitman arm to the frame (1st pic) and the Idler arm to the frame (2nd pic). It is little difficult to tell, but Pitman arm side has more distance.





3rd picture shows the driver side adjuster, and you can see the approximate number of threads left.

4th picture shows the passenger side adjuster. Threads left are more than the driver side.

Right after the installation, I was little worried if the driver side can be aligned correctly. There was no problem...

I hope the pictures are helpful to those who are about to install the system...

To me that would mean the center link is adjusted too long. The idler and pitman arms should be parallel to each other.

Measure the distance from the center of the pitman arm shaft to the idler arm shaft. Compare it to the length of the centerlink mounting hole to mounting hole.

Yeah I also needed new tie rod ends since mine are sloppy.

FYI BECK/ARNLEY P/N 101-4740 tie rod assemblies also work and they only cost me $65 each at my kragen local parts store.

Other supplies/tools besides what's been mentioned…I'm thinking grease & gun for the centerlink ends since mine didn't appear to be greased from the factory. Did everybody else notice this/grease them?

Planning on installing mine & helping a few other local owners soon. Looks like you don't want to drive much without a alignment because of the toe in on the passengers side mentioned?

Heads up to those still waiting!

Make sure your order hasn't been lost! I just found out that my original order disappeared and that's why I didn't get my steering system. I was put back on the list but it was too late for the first shipment. I had no idea that I had fallen from the top of the list. If you ordered very early on don't be surprised if the same has happened to you.

This is the orde you placed with xterraparts.com, isn't it? Or, with Calmini?

I remember that there was another person who posted about his order removed by xterraparts.com on the AF board... :rolleyes:

Yeah, with Xterraparts. What's weird is that Calmini said I ordered from them and then canceled my order but that never happened?

I have to give Steve at Xterraparts a lot of credit though. When Calmini started shipping and they were going through their lists, Steve notcied I wasn't on the list and remembered I wanted one so he tried to get it. With being on a 6 month waiting list I'm not surprised that there were some problems and I know Xterraparts will take care of me.

I'm just upset because I wanted to be first...hehe!

Thanks for confirming that stuff for me and thanks for the BA part #'s. Mine are really sloppy and I don't wan't to bother with the swap and have to do it again later.

That system is sweet,so much cool stuff and yet, so little money, what gives?

Mine showed up today.

Update: I have now been informed that a steering system did ship for me on Friday. I think somebody is just screwing with my head because they know how bad I want it!

I agree that the centerlink is too short at 30 5/8". On my truck, when the steering wheel is straight the pitman arm is parallel to the frame and the idler arm side is angled towards the frame. For the idler arm and pitman arm to be parallel, the center link needs to be the same length as the distance between the steering shaft and idler arm pivot. I measured that to be 31", but it's gotten dark on me, so I won't be changing the centerlink tonight.

I eyeballed the alignment with the Calmini specified centerlink and the steering wheel level. The passenger tie rod is much longer than the driver side and the steering response feels different left from right.

One other note. To set up the center link measure between the grease fitting holes on the new TREs. The CL should be 30 5/8" between these holes. So the whole thing is actually longer than that.

I did that and still feel it's too short.

I reset my centerlink to 31 3/16" measured between the zerks on the tie rod ends. The pitman and idler arms are close to parallel and the tie-rod lengths are nearly equal left and right on my truck. Full turns don't seem to be scrubbing the tires excessively so the ackerman angle seems about right. And steering response is more balanced than it was at the original setting. The steering wheel is a little off, but it's close enough until I get a proper alignment after the 1st.

So there are some issues here with the setup? Is it best to wait and see how this pans out? My centerlink is starting to go bye-bye but I don't want to buy this system if it is going to add other problems and just keep my from buying centerlinks. Advise?
John

It does not look like a problem to me.. rather just a disagreement as to how to do the initial set up.

I should knnow more first had info by next week.

It is a problem if the idler and pitman are not parallel. Steering will be different in each direction, which is not good.

Measure the distance between the center of the pitman arm shaft and idler arm shaft.
Set the centerlink to that same length (center to center on the tie-rod ends).
Everything should be fine then.

That has to be the cleanest Xterra chassis etc I have ever seen!

One new note about the setup. I have had mine on for about two weeks now. I went wheeling last weekend and noticed afterwards that the idler was a bit loose.

It was able to move fore and aft a hair. Turns out the powdercoating wore down a bit and let the idler loosen up some. I tightened the bolt down to 100 ft/lbs, and it is fine. Just thought I would mention it for anyone else that might have the same issue.

Besides the powder coating, which seems normal, the system held up well. I really banged it hard a few times to on the rocks, and it is still perfectly solid. Should get some more test time in soon.

Calmini told me this was the reason behind going to the plating vs. the powdercoating (closer tolerances).

So the next sets will be plated instead of powdercoated? I thought I heard about a new silver batch coming out, is this what I heard about?

Good to hear they are holding up.
John

Yup installed mine today, exactly the same 31 3/16" measured between the zerks on the tie rod ends on the CL w/ parallel pitman and idler arms, tie-rod lengths are also equal left and right on my truck with 4 threads showing on both.

Alignment and steering wheel seems almost dead on and steering very balanced overall. Interested in seeing the readout once I go for an alignment this week. Feels very solid, have to get use to this new system, can't wait to go wheelin' and test everything out

Spent ~ 2hrs disassembling/installing after we put the tie-rod adjusters/assemblies together. The right-handed threads were much tighter on my adjusters and I used a bench vice to hold them while threading the lock nuts after greasing them very good.

Thanks for the pics/tips & LAX for the vice and help putting together the tie rods assemblies w/ the Gorilla torque

Got mine today...yay!

Now I have a weekend project. Then I get my new tires next week! I'm celebrating Christmas a little late!

Cool! A setup that appears to work without breaking the bank

Just a tip I've used many times when dealing with tight nuts and bolts. Buy a metric tap and die set for the size nuts and bolts you are having trouble with. ALWAYS run the tap into the nut and the die over the threads before forcing them together!

If the nuts got too hot to touch while forcing them on then the threads were deformed. I would get new nuts before installing the tie rod adjustors. Also be aware that new plated nuts and bolts often have burrs and plating flashing on them. I always run the tap/die over everything before assembly.
Hell I still have the original bolts in my front skid plate! I just run the tap into the bolt hole and the die over the 6mm bolts everytime I take it off
Great info on this mod guys, I will keep lurking and reading until I can afford one

Just finished the install. Well, kinda. I really screwed the toe and don't even want to drive it on the freeway to get to the alignment...it's THAT bad! I'm going to fix that tomorrow.

Aside from a few other stupid problems along the way, the install went well and the system is nice. Definately will get pictures and more details up later.

I will say that I ended up setting the center link somewhere between Calmini's number and what other folks have been doing. My tie rods seem to be about equal in length; they are both just too tight. Will get a proper measurement tomorrow when I'm under there again.

Then it sounds like the measurements that everyone else got must be pretty darn close. If you went between the two and you have excessive toe in, then you didn't go quite far enough. Let us know how things turn out (measurement wise) once you re-adjust tomorrow.

I think the centerlink is about right. The steering wheel is almost perfectly on center and the tie rods are about the same length. They are just too tight. I already went out and loosened both sides up a little bit and the truck drove much better. When I came home it was all over the road and very dangerous to drive, IMO. Will try and get measurements tomorrow.

UPDATE: I toed the right front out a bit more today so both tie rods are the same length and the steering wheel is perfectly straight. Truck is driving great, steering wheel is perfectly on-center, and it doesn't pull or anything.

Measurements are as follows:

Centerlink center of zerk to center of zerk, 30-7/8".

Left tie rod link, 5" including nuts.

Right tie rod link, 5" including nuts.

I will get a proper alignment tomorrow. Wonder how close it will be?

I just finished installing the kit and WOW what a differance. It is nice to be able to move the steering wheel and actually have the wheels move.

My stock steering was so loose that it was frightening.

I did the same trick and did a measurement equal to the distance from pitman arm to idler arm. I did an basic alignment using a tape measure and all seems to be doing well.

One less thing to worry about when off-roading (not to mention one less thing on the check list of things to do for goneMOAB)

any bumpsteer issues anyone? less or more than stock. In the Calmini ad it says that this setup is longer (the CL) than stock so it reduces the angles, but it seems it would do the exact opposite? thanks

I have not seen an increase in bump steer over the stock steering (and I am no longer running a steering stablizer with the Calmini system)

Sounds like you may have some other things going on? Do you check your power steering hoses/fluid for leaks? Doesn’t really seem normal/typical of a worn CL from my experience.

Jeff K,

Bump steer has been less for me compared to stock with this SS. The CL length is actually the same as stock 30 5/8” according to the install instructions, although I setup mine up longer for a few reasons. The CALMINI tie-rod adjusters are longer than stock

thanks for the quick reply you guys are great I ordered one today for my SC CC Frontier.

Brian.. I was being a little over the top.. I was refering to the 2" of "play" that I did have with the stock steering which was causing my steering to be a little on the non responsive side.

:-)

Does anyone know the torque spec for the huge nut on the pitman arm. My new arm doesn't seem to fit onto the shaft as high as the old one did. The instructions from Calmini didn't address any torque specifications.

-Nate

Make sure you have the splines lined up then let loose a 500# gorilla on it. As you tighten the nut the arm will move up (it is tapered)

From the 2000 ESM, it appears that on the stock equipment the pitman nut is 235-265 N.m (24-27 kg.m, 174-195 ft.lb).
A 500# gorilla sounds about right.

Mine didn't either and it looks like the pictures in the beginning of this thread show the same thing. I took mine to the point where my impact wrench wasn't turning it and then tried with a breaker bar to keep turning it. After I put a stripe with a Mark-a-lot down the arm, washer and nut to see if it moves.

The pitman arm will not go up as far as the stock one. That is by design.

Yep. I asked Steve about it when I installed mine and he said the same thing as Ian.

Has anyone received a steering system recently? I ordered mine on Dec 26th and just called today, the latest date for possible shipment is Feb 11th.

This waiting is killing me!!

Just finished installing a Calmini steering system for XID and I must say that I'm VERY impressed with the simplistic design and beefy material in this setup. He's got his torsion bars turned up but still running stock a-arms and the tie rod assemblies are running just about level. The centerlink definately needs to be set at the 31-3/16" as reported first by Aero Steve. Thanks for that info Steve.

Just got back from the initial test run with the new steering.

I was very nice. Now it is all covered with mud and ice. The Xterra had fun with 3 jeeps and an old bronco. I think that they did not believe the capabilities of the vehicle. I was not laughed out by any of them today.

I'll leave the truck dirty for a couple days. I needed a good mid-winter run.

Just waiting for gears......

Todd