Low Range Gear guys..

Anybody who has low range gears. I just got mine installed and they seem to be working. The only thing is, when in 4low 1st gear, somtimes the truck will automatically cut throttle.

Any ideas? Does this just happen? Anything I should look for?

Does not happen in 4hi. Also, it seems to be ok in 2nd and 3rd gears in 4 low.

Again, it doesn't seem to happen all the time.

Any help is appreciated.

I don't know, I've never had similar problems with my CALMINI gears.

They've been in for maybe three years and worked great.

I couldn't resist, given your dislike for them.

Are yours the AC gears, or (GASP) maybe you went to BLUE?

Todd

Automatically cut throttle? Does it rev up and just not go? or something else.

Wondering about the VSS speed sensor in the tcase, perhaps messed up or something? I remember one of the sensors is a two piece..plastic type wheel on the bottom that says in the case you have to be carefull about that fits with the sensor that you reinstall.

Well, it's like a rev limiter, but at 1,800 RPM.

Also, it isn't just in 1st gear. I noticed that if it IS doing it, it will do it in all gears within 4low.

It seems that shifting to reverse and back again resets it for a bit.

4 Hi is fine.

As far as gears go, I don't think it really matters. One is just less expensive than the other. And thier gears arn't painted blue

This obviously isn't mechanical, so it is a sensor somwhere telling the computer to cut throttle when in 4low.

The case will shift through all gears fine, and there doesn't seem to be any binding/grinding or anything like that. There is a whine when in the 2nd and 3rd gears, but I'm pretty sure thats just a product of low gears.

That's the automatic "motor mount saver" when running in 4-low so you don't rip your mounts off the frame.

Just kidding.

I think something is not plugged back in quite right, it's not a mechanical issue given what you worked on to get those installed.

Another update:

I used the "Judgement" procedure to get the transmission to blink codes with the O/D light. Came out clean.

The only problem is that you can't get the tranny to blink codes while the issue is happening. Would need the monitor thing-a-ma-bob that the dealership uses to diagnose problems.

got calmini gears in both trucks with no issues....Not sure how gears could have anything to do with that. Try disconnecting the battery for a half hour to see if the computer resets itself. With luck, the issue will go away.

Or get a scan guage

I have a scanguage. But most transmission codes do not register as ODBII "emission" codes or what have you. Hence the giant combination of stuff you have to do to get the tranny to blink codes via the O/D light.

I believe the scanner that the dealership uses can dig a little deeper than just the scanguage.

Where is cyclemut? I bet he would know what the heck is going on.

The whine in 2nd, 3rd, 4th, etc...is normal for the gears...and it's the most beautiful sound in the world when my Calmini gears make that whine

I haven't had that issue with my gears though as far as cutting out, not even in 1st...keep us posted as to what you find out, if you find out...I'm sure this will be good info to have for those that may encounter similar problems.

Wolfman -

Your problem sounds very similar to the problem I currently have with my X. Check the following post:
Engine Cutting out while climbing

If this is a T-Gear problem this would be interesting as I recently had the Calmini gears installed.

I'll let you know if I figure anything out..

Racer,

I think the problem you are having is differnt than Jason. I had the same problem before I had Calmini gears and after. One thing to note, I have not had the problem since switching over to Royal Purple ATF.

-Doug

Doug,

It would be great if that's all I would need to do to correct this problem - I'll give it a try. Have you switched to RP ATF in both TC & Trans?

RX

I run RP gear oil in the TC.

Doug

THAT WOULD BE A BAD IDEA Until the gears are properly burneshed and broken in.

gears need to be heated and cooled in natural oils (aka: non - synthetic) to allow for proper break in. 500 miles of stop and go. heating and cooling the gears lower than 50 MPH. (change oil) then run the gears normal speeds for another 500 miles. (change oil) run another 1500 miles and then switch to synthetic. I know it is all but I'm nuts about doing thing over the top.

that is why both Calmini and A/C recommed the Valvoline non - synthetic 80W90 gear lub

Maybe that is my issue.. I put matic D in the TC like the service manual stated.

Racer, it sure sounds VERY similar. Although I have had it happen while not climbing hills as well.

Regarding which fluid to put in the transfer case: You're supposed to use the same thing you use in the transmission... if you have an auto - use ATF. If you have a manual, use gear oil.

Regarding "break-in" oil - that's old info... you can run full synth in anything from day 1 if you want to these days... you don't really have to break in gears and engines like you used to. A lot of cars come with synth motor oil from the factory these days.

That doesn't make any sense. A TX10 transfer case is the same in both a M/T and A/T.

ok that is true for an new car off the lot.

these are not new cars/gears off the lot. the reason you do not need to preform break in on new cars is because the auto industry learned that it is cheaper to break in cars 4 you instead of having to replace parts on warrenty.

custom gears, tcase and ring/pinion, are not run through a break in period and if you get on the phone and talk to both calmini and Ac and Big balls offroad, Aust. they will tell you to break them in. also most gears come with a slight phosphate coat on them to prevent rust during storage prior to install. that coating breaks off when the run up. you need to change the fluid to get that crap out.

second the reason that they cases run different oils is because their is a slight(very low) chance of oil sharing between the two thru the rear seal on the transmission. I would not worry about that,
for the break in period.

also get on the phone call calmini or A/c get answers from them about their product. I spent close to 4 hours on the phone with Mike, from A/c when i did my install, over several days (could only work on the truck for a few hours at a time:) )

and make you own decision, don't listem to a bunch of half baked webwheelers.

AC claims that their gears are made by the same factory that makes the stock tcase gears... I don't see why they would be any different from a break-in perspective. My truck came with Nissan ATF in the tcase... so I figure I'll put the same thing in there (which, granted, is not a synth - so I'm not arguing that point atm) when I do the gears.

WolfmanX - Mynameis anwered the question... there is a chance that the tranny and Tcase fluids can contaminate each other... so ideally you want them to be compatible fluids.

Yep, gotcha

Doug's truck is an A/T I believe right? He uses gear oil vs. the matic D?

So whats the deal? Should we be using gear oil with the low range gears or not?

Yup mine is an auto. I run ATF in the trans and gear oil in the TC. The two units don't share fluid so its fine to do so. If you live in very cold area I would stick to ATF in the TC.

Doug

I dunno.... the gear oil is definitely better for the transfer case... the question is - how big is the risk of a seal leak developing between the tranny and the tcase.

If the risk really is very small, then we should all probably use gear oil... but if it's... say.... the same as the risk of the rear main seal of the motor leaking, then I'll stick with the ATF

Well lets put it this way: The service manual states to use Nissan Matic D or API GL-4 viscosity SAE 75w-85 or 75W-90.

So I guess they say it doesn't matter.