Dana 300 T-case doubler

You guys seen this yet? Its a TX10 to dana 300 doubler kit in development by Northwest Fab:
Transfercase Doubler

It will work on any Nissan using the TX10 transfer case. It'll be one more way to get crawler gears.





With the stock TX10 and dana 300 gears, one would have the option of running in 1:1 (high range in both boxes), 2.02:1 (low range in TX10, high range in d300), 2.6:1 (high range in tx10, low range in d300), or 5.25:1 (low range in both).

With crawler gears in one case or the other, you could have insane crawl ratios:

Calmini Gears in TX10:
1:1, 2.6:1, 3.92:1, or 10.19:1

d300 4:1 gears in the dana 300:
1:1, 2.02:1, 4.00:1, or 8.08:1

Here's a link to the company working on this.. keep an eye on it, as this will probably be the next hot mod for these trucks:
http://www.northwestfab.com/

Wow! consider me interested for sure. Hopefully the cost will be reasonable, but that's a lot of aluminum and machining.

Wow..
That is an amazing piece of work.

I wonder what the price will be.

What other work needs to be done to get it to work?

shorten rear d-shaft, lengthen the front?
Additional crossmember?
Will it hang lower than the frame?

Definitely interested

The cool thing is that this thing should be compact enough that even the IFS guys could drop it in too. It'll obviously require driveshaft modifications, since you'd be using the dana 300 for the front and rear outputs. It has 1310 U joint connections on the front and back.

These things came out of early 80s Jeep CJ7s and have TONS of aftermarket parts available for them.

Here's what the dana 300 looks like compared to the TX10:


The dana 300 is a cast iron casing and is a gear-driven case.. there is no chain to stretch or break:


With the d300 installed and twin sticked, you'll also have the option of front wheel drive/rear wheel drive selection in low range, so given your drivetrain components are beef enough, you could do front digs to pivot the truck around on a dime!

Looks great so far and I would buy one to go with the D300 I have. Would be great to have 2.6:1 and 10.19 options

Things that come to mind; d300 will need to be modified for driver's side drop.

Something would have be done about the speedo sensor in the D300 think its mechanical rather than electronic like the X has.

Transfer case and maybe tranny x member/support would have to be looked at.

Driveshafts redone; lengths most likely changed, front now ujoint instead of flange, the rear would be non slip yoke.

Would rather have cable shifts than mechanical sticks so I figure that would be another couple hundred and the 1310 ujoint flange on a stock D300 is not going to cut it for me so I would upgrade that also.

The cost will add up so hopefully the adapter will be reasonably priced like say <= $500. D300 go for ~ $300 so it would'nt be inexpensive but still worth to me.

Schweet!

Everything needed to send a speed signal to the ECU using the dana 300 speedo output can be purchased for around $100.

Dakota Digital Part # SEN-01-1:
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=produ...ct_id=109/prd109.htm

And Dakota Digital Part # SGI-5:
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=prod u...mode=prod/prd126.htm

This combination will bolt up to the dana 300 and will provide the necessary 2000ppm signal to the ecu for proper operation. It also provides an easy means to electronically adjust the speedometer for tire size or gearing.

I'll be testing these components over on Nissan4wheelers.com and writing a wiring and configuration guide when the doubler kit comes out. Pretty sure these two parts are all we'll need though to make the speedo/cruise control/transmission/ecu work correctly.

great so who wants to be the guinea pig.

FYI ... Solid Axle guys using a radius arm setup the case most likely will not clear the mounts for the rear crossmember/radius arm mount.

Leaf spring setups.... well they dont have it so you are golden.

D300 doesn't have to be modded to fit "driver's drop". It doesn't matter; just rotate the whole darn thing, as needed. It bolts on w/ a circular pattern, so "flipping" it means, literally, rotate the case & bolt it up.

New driveshafts are obvious.

"cable" vs. lever costing a few hundred?? wow. won't even go there...

speedo sensor?? Leave the freakin' speedo sensor alone. If you're really concerned with what "speed" you're going when your crawl ratio is around 100:1, you're doin' it wrong... Leave the speedo sensor alone in the TX-10 case; only time it's important is when you're using 2-hi or 2-hi in the tx-10 case to begin with; any other time, you shouldn't be concerned with the freaking speedo...if you are, then you are not the type of wheeler that needs a t-case doubler in the first place.

It does matter, do some research you'll find out why you need mods with a normal D300 and there are several flip kits on the market From what I read the adapter takes care of some this, included clocking, special seals, etc but there still maybe a need for other mods…cutting a shift rod or whatnot when flipped.

The NWFAB cable shift kits are $300+ if you can build one of less good for you
http://www.northwestfab.com/Shifters.html

You do realize the TX10 become a range box only and the stock VSS won't be retained/work. The ECU uses the sensor of a number of things anyway and unless you have a trail only truck you want a working one.

Overall this is likely a 1k+ modification and a bit of work with other stuff also unless you're a web wheeler that can post it in.

Yeah clearing the rear CALMINI x member with the radius arm brackets is going to be tricky but I think its doable and there off to the sides which helps. Some exhaust tube routing of the x over pipe might be needed and perhaps a horse shoe mod on the center of that x-member?

Only a fucking web wheeler would put in a t-case doubler into a "daily driver" in the first place. If you're seriously worried about the little bit of work involved with using an adapter like this, but feel you really, really need it, well, all I can say is, "Figures."

Tool, do you even do any work yourself, or do you always farm it out to someone else, then brag about how difficult or how much $$ it took to do it? And I'm not talking about "bolt-on" kits, either. Any trained monkey with some $$ and a wrench can do that. Before you toss around your "web wheeling" horseshit, you might actually learn a little about how to fab things yourself. Not only will it save you a shitton of $$, but you'll sound a helluva' lot more intelligent when you berate people, as well.

The adapter is the hard part for the t-case doubler, and the only part that wouldn't be easy for someone to fab up themself. Everything else could be done by someone with a little free time and some ingenuity. Believe it or not, but things don't have to be picture perfect, and cost $300 in order to work...

Definately upgrade that 1310 u-joint, though. I'm sure it'll make a difference if the u-joint on the t-case is stronger, when you're still running a 1310 on the yoke end of your axle... Guess, at least, you'd know which will break first. Good call...

Somebody piss in your cheerios?

Lots of people have doublers and drive to the trails rather than towing. Having a working speedo, cruise control, gauges, ATP, etc is kind of a requirement for some.

Do my own wrenching, mods, and when I want to almost all mine own fab on my rigs with the exception of finish welding. I know how long things take, costs, and want them to be tested, really solid, and long lasting.

I figured $200 for a DIY cable shift like I posted, and they sell for $300. I’m cheaper than most and prefer DIY solutions, bolt-on stuff, rather than scratch fab. To give you a idea; I venture to quess you have double or more in your fronty (purchase price plus mods) compared to what I have invested total in my SAS X with dual lockers, low gears, all the goodies including the inital purchase price. In case you did'nt know I also drove a dual locked SAS 90' SOA Pathy for years before this that was hand bulit for less than I have in shocks/springs on my rig now if you want to talk about saving $$

Having run and worked w / several TX10 transfer cases, 3 sensors it has, gears inside and well as shifting and running a D300 before maybe I'm a bit more practical on what it takes to get the job done to my satisfaction.

If you want to make a home-made doubler or the associated stuff needed be my guest, maybe you could market it and it will be easy and cheaper like you think Post up on the details on how you can save some $$, I'm all ears be it on the adapter, good quality cable shifts w/ rail adapters, driveshafts, cross members, mods, sensors, etc like DATZ did. He budgeted 1k for this project and has all the tools and pretty good fab skills, so I think thats a reasonable estimate.

Up until now anybody has been able to come up with a Nissan doubler that people want. I’m hoping this DIY one from NWFAB changes that. As long as the price of the adapter is reasonable I’m most likely going to be running one but I like to think/plan things out and explore all the possiblilties ahead of time. I prefer to have things lined up before hand; work in the driveway on a weekend or night and go wheelin the next day rather then having a rig sitting for while trying to figure things out. Downtime is important to me, I wheel a lot, work long hrs, and have rigs with 150k+ on them so I wrench enough as is, light fab is ok I just don’t have the time or desire to get into longer term scratch or hack type builds anymore.

Getting a flipped 300 to not leak is the key there.

I'd like to see a 231 doubler/adapter anyway. Tons of them out there, they're driver's drop on most of them (some were pass. drop) and you can get parts anywhere. Heck, get one out of a Rubicon with the lower gears in it anyway.

Nice that someone's making a doubler anyway for it.

Does the NP231 and the 300 have the same mounting? Just a different spline size/count, right?