Broke another one! Nissan fixed the last one under warrenty. Wish me luck on this one.

what's the 4 letter word? :p

goodluck

TURD. I believe the correct phrase is, "Motor mount is a turd." I've broken a couple myself and wheel with others who've had this happen as well. Never replaced one myself, I brought mine to the shop for that. It can be done at home though, just look around "backyard mech", or "probs/annoys" if the dealership's not too kind this time around.

It can be done on the trail with knats flying around in about 2 hours. Just ask Kevin & Troy.

I'm sure it's a good story
This'll get you off of the trail & back home too, if you aren't carrying a spare MM. -

Someone needs to weld a cable to the top and bottom that only lets it move a little bit. Chain might work too, but steel cable seems like it would be best.

We went over "limiting straps" ad nauseum here on XOC. I believe Ken ( ) or 01SalsaX use them, and a cupla' others too. The mounts seem to be engineered to fail before anything worse does ..I'd like to sit in on the next MM install locally. Maybe do one for a mod day?

torque strap

It can be easily adapted for the xterra. Definitley will save some motor mounts.

Hey Dan! (Dbax)

It really was not that bad.

Try to ignore the exteme heat around MOAB
Jack vehicle
Pull Drivers side tire
Drop front diff
Piss and moan about not having a universal
Cuss a few times
Swear at everyone driving by
Jack engine up
Swear at everyone driving by again
Pull MM
Put in new MM
Ignore freaking bugs
Cuss a few more times
Put it all back together

Can be done at home/ on the trail.

1. Lift and support the front end w/ jack stands
2. With engine cool, remove front skid and/ or any forward aftermarket skids.
3. Remove the wheel on the side that failed.
4. If you have some form of a 14mm socket or wrench that can get in there, then it will be easy. If not, then you need to drop the front end just a little.
5. There are 4 17mm bolts. Two in the front on the cross member, and two behind near the T-bars. We found 3 of the 4 bolts to be different lengths so mark and/or don't mix them. Support the front diff on your factory jack and then lower just enough to get your 14mm in there to the two lower motor mount bolts. Be sure to watch the CV boots as to not tear one.
6. The one upper motor mount bolt should pose no problem getting to.
7. If you are at home, use a hoist to lift the engine ~1 inch. This is enough to slide out the entire motor mount. If on the trail, use your buddy's stock jack to lift the engine from the bottom. **Remember that the other side is attached, so don't go further than you need!!**
8. Install the new motor mount, lower the engine and bolt up the motor mount tight. Don't forget to tighten any of these bolts! Lift the diff back up and reinstall the four bolts remembering which ones went to what. Attach wheel and skids and lower the truck.
9. All done. Should 1-1.5 hours at home with help. ~2+ on the trail with help.

Be carefull and good luck.

Troy

Nissan is covering the MMs!!!

Thats provided you still have a warranty. I'm at 93,000 miles...

Update...
Service manager is fighting the claim. Donkey F***er. I am responding by citing the Magnuson-Moss Warrenty Act (Fed Law 15 U.S.C. 2302 9c)) We'll see where this leads now...

Hey Dave if you run out of luck at your dealership try foothill nissan in La Canada, they are offroad family or have been in the past, i satrted taking my truck there after Ivana recommended them. Good luck.

New update!!!

Nissan is going to cover the MM. The service manager, Joel at Valencia Nissan, went to bat (after learning about the Magnuson-Moss Warrenty Act?)and got it taken care of under warrenty. Joel rocks!!!

[sarcasm]I'm cursious about something... since when did Nissan start putting so many motorsin the Xtera? I thought 99% of all automobiles had engines? Wouldn't that make it an engine mount?[/sarcasm]

Dork.

you got that right!!

funny thing is EVERYONE called em motor mounts...

Motor = Engine

Driveshaft = Propeller shaft

Whats the difference?