Hi, my 2001 VG33E died at 60mph, Given its mileage, I'm assuming its the timing belt. What are the chances the valves might be ok and is there an easy way to confirm valve condition before changing the timing belt? I really don't want to pull the heads if I don't have to.

what is the mileage? what exactly happened, did it just shut off, make some bad noises, sputter? You said you're assuming its the belt, have you confirmed that yet? If so, did the belt break, or skip?

ok, I was driving on the road at 60mph and my tach just dropped to zero, total loss of power, check engine soon light came on. I didn't hear any bangs and no parts were flying off but being that I was overdue for a timing belt with roughly 143k miles on it leads me to believe it was the timing belt. I didn't confirm it yet and I'm going to get access to the be. If it didn't break it still has to be changed. If by chance no damage has occurred as of yet, how do I rotate everything back to where it should be without doing any damage ? I gotta get the number one back to tdc and the cams aligned with the marks but you know the cams are going to open valves and such.

getting everything back on the mark isnt as hard as you might think, as long as you've turned a wrench before on something.

Yes I've turned many wrenches, mostly on airplanes though. I finally started to work on it. I got the top part of the timing belt oover off and found the belt in one piece but very loose. Maybe it jumped teeth. I'm thinking the tensioner failed. It seems I can twist the belt about 90 degrees. Thats too loose ? Yes ? Anyway, I'll continue to rip into it and check all the alignment marks. I'm still thinking timing belt issues and knowing my luck valves are wasted. I'm just wondering should I roll the dice, throw in a belt and water pump and see what happens ?
Thanks for the input. I'll keep posting as I make progress.

if you can get the plugs out, take em out and get yourself a socket for the main pully, cant remember the size right now, think it was somewhere around 1 1/4 maybe or something close to that and try to turn the engine that way you should be able to see if the timing marks line up with the marks on the back cover, or with the marks on the belt if you can see them yet.

The tensioner is one of the items included with the TB kit from here -----> http://www.courtesyparts.com/nissan-timi...532_22_523&

If you find that its not toast, and are going to put it back togeher, make sure you get that kit, (or at least all of the parts shown) as they all should be changed while you are in there... plus the little water intake hose by the thermostat housing

Well I took a better look in the light tonight. The timing belt should have teeth all the way around, right ? Just kidding. Mine is wasted. Probably about half the teeth have left the belt. The chances of my valves being okay are looking slimmer now.

As far as the main pulley, thats not a left hand thread, is it ? Any tips to get it off ? My cheap sears air impact wouldn't budge it and I don't think I should hammer at it. Maybe a breaker bar and some way to hold the pulley from spinning ? Any suggestions ?
Thanks

I took my radiator right out from the start, and used a good impact on it, was stubbern but it gave in after a bit. cant remember the thread direction, wonder if there is a manual that you could check for that ? I might have to dig mine out and check it if you dont have any . . . . . .

yeah, the hard part is holding the pulley, we had a strap wrench on mine and a breaker bar and it just kept slipping.

Even though the VG33 is considered an interference engine (meaning the valves "can" make contact with the pistons) , a lot of people have said that in most cases they do not make contact.

guessing the odds are your no where near Ashland Pa huh ? just a thought............

When I did mine I used a 800ft# impact to get that pulley off. It was on there tight.

XOC, the threads, can you remember which way they are? Normal, or reverse ?

let me check the oem shop manual

I can't find it in the oem shop manual. I would think if they don't specify then it is standard rt hand thread. it just says remove the bolt, remove the pulley using a suitable puller. My impact gun is a weak one that came with my sears compressor. My Harbor Freight strap wrench isn't even worth the $4.99 I paid. time to get a stronger impact wrench.

Once I get a new belt, the plan is to check compression. If its good, I continue, if not, off with the heads.

As always thanks again for your support.

From what I can see it is a regular righty tighty lefty loosie

Excuse me ?

The saga continues...A 580 ft/lb impact did the trick. I checked compression on 1,3,5 & 2 and got frustrated with 4 & 6. #1 was low. Granted the engine was cold but I got 95 psi out of it. 3,5 and 2 got 120 psi. With that it was time to roll the dice. I put the new belt on and did everything but fill the radiator and trans fluid back up. It wouldn't start at first because I guess during troubleshooting I pulled the plug for the fuel pump and didn't fully plug it back in. After I got the fuel going, it started right up and ran rather smooth. Tomorrow, I'll fill the radiator and trans back up and put it to the test. Overall, although its time consuming, changing the belt was very easy, once I got the big bolt out that is. I'll report back once i road test it.

Road test good, I got lucky. It seems to run just like before. As Striker once said "Sluggish, like a wet sponge." After driving my Z4 for three weeks makes it feel even slower. I guess we can add this to the list of surviving interference engines.
Thanks for all the support, if not technically, then morally.

Glad it worked out for ya, love the Striker quote to, one of many classic one liners from that movie!!