Light size on roof rack

I'm looking to add some lights on my roof rack and am debating 4and 3/4" lights and 7" lights, i had the 7" on my jeep and they looked good but the rack mounting will be narrower on the x. Does anybody have pictures of their x's with comparable sizes so i could see what it looks like

i have some if u like i can send them to u

These are the 6" KC HiLites. They're pretty tightly fitted together as I wanted them more in the center of the truck rather than off to each side. The bar is a custom "low rider" that allows me to pivot the lights down flat against the roof so that I can squeeze into the garage.



From the front.

nice post, i'm in the same situation right now trying to decide between- 4", 5" , and 6" lights. I pretty much ruled out the 4" probably wouldn't look right being too small up there. So 5" or 6". I plan to add 4 lights btw.

They look sweet, how did you make it pivot to fit in the garage i would like to do the same so i can still put my kayak on top

The pipe has a 2" internal diameter and is mounted on 2" diameter solid rods. Below are my plans. I never did as-builts as they were very very close. The biggest change was two tapped bolts into the rod end to hold it to the aluminum "L" bracket vice the one shown below. The other minor change was to drill the locking pin at a slight angle to allow clearance for the lights. Also I had the lights rotate forward and down rather than backwards and up.

This guy was the hardest to manufacture. Long cuts on the aluminum angle iron but they worked out fine.







The pipe was a bit smaller than the rod so I had to sand off about 0.001" a tiny bit at a time. A bit of oil and the thing rotates with ease but stays in place as needed.

These are 4 3/4" diameter lights on the roof.

thanks for the light bar diagrams that is a sweet bar but i might change it some so i dont have to make any parts. Red x do you have a closer up shot of the 4 and 3/4" lights up top?

No...nothing really closer, but here are a couple other shots for size and different angles.

Here's mine. Don't have a closer shot, but the bar is just angle iron with angle brackets drilled to fit the exsisting holes in the roof rack.

By rntknives , shot with hp photosmart 733 at 2008-05-15
Also... wanted them a little forward, but didn't want to punch holes in the wind deflector.

By RNTKnives at 2008-06-07

I thought about a 5th one, but didn't want to look "crowded". These are the 130 watters.

Jeff!

RNT those are 6" ?

Yup... They're the 6" 130 watters. I got the black ones because I'm not a big fan of chrome. I'm a fabricator by day, so I built my own bar and did the wiring "old school".
Single 10ga. power wire through a 50 amp self-reseting circuit breaker.
Switched them with a 600 amp 3 pole starter seleniod (*spelling*), also used on Ramsey and Warn winches.
Seleniod is triggered by an illuminated "dog-eared" Muncie PTO switch in a factory dash hole.
Power for the trigger comes from an "ignition on"( not acc. on) source.
Can give you part numbers ond more pics if you need.

Jeff!

RNT,

If you have the part numbers, I'd love to see them. You did exactly what I was thinking of doing!

If you have a good shot of your angle iron light bar, that would be great too!

Thanks,

Dave

OK... Here's a few crappy pics of the light bar.

From the driver's side:

By rntknives , shot with hp photosmart 733 at 2008-06-08


By rntknives , shot with hp photosmart 733 at 2008-06-25

From the rear:

By rntknives , shot with hp photosmart 733 at 2008-06-25

From the passenger side:

By rntknives , shot with hp photosmart 733 at 2008-06-25

and I routed the wires up the A-pillar weatherstrip( one 10 ga. wire up each side ):

By rntknives , shot with hp photosmart 733 at 2008-06-25

Here's the 50 amp self-reseting circuit breaker, Velvac part number 091057:

By rntknives , shot with hp photosmart 733 at 2008-06-25

Couldn't find a # for the selenoid... simple 3 pole starter type, high amp:

By rntknives , shot with hp photosmart 733 at 2008-06-25

The "dog eared" switch is Muncie PTO's part # 30T35687, and it's illuminated:

By rntknives , shot with hp photosmart 733 at 2008-06-25

Sorry this got so pic heavy. Hope it helps.

Jeff!

Jeff,

Thanks very much!

This will be a great help to someone like myself, who is severely impaired mechanically. As in carpentry, I can do the rough stuff like framing; but not the finish work. Problem is I just like to keep trying; only way to get better!

Thanks again!

Dave

No problem Dave.I'm glad to help whenever I can. As soon as I finish up my dual battery system, I'll post some pics of that too.

Jeff!

How much for one? I love the idea of the pivot.

Here's some lighting pics that got lost in the **??** whatever it's called this week. I used some Aries brackets ( don't remember the #) and they're perfect. These lights have 2 55W halogen bulbs in each housing. 3 lights per side, each side fired independantly. I've built a dual battery setup and all aux. lighting and inverters run off of the secondary battery. Power panel was scratch built.


By rntknives at 2009-02-10
3 100W floods on each side, mounted on Aries brackets.

By rntknives at 2009-01-29
The power panel mounted in the "cubby hole".

By rntknives at 2009-10-03
This inverter (200W) in the front.

By rntknives at 2009-10-03
This inverter (2500W) in the rear.

The "Power Panel" above is for sale. I replaced it with a Code3 lighting controller with the "air horn" feature. Look in the "For Sale" forum.

Jeff!