Calmini Idler Arm - fix for failing bronze bushing?

Maybe the bronze bushings could be replaced with this stuff too?

http://www.vesconite.com/industry/applications/transport/back_hoe_loader.htm

Well confirmed my Idler Arm Bushings have failed.

Only SIX MONTHS after install and the play is very obvious especially after we put it on a lift.

I'm trying to have some made locally out of stronger material. I don't want to pay $40 for another set that will fail in 6 months or less. Mine is so bad now that it it very loose on the highway. Short of that I may pull it off and go with the SLR setup. They people I know running it have not had any problems yet.

mine's only been 3 months....July 31st was the install

Well after many miles it is still holding up and the bushings fixed the play in the steering wheel.

One of our members in SOXC works for a metals company and knows metals and their applications pretty well. Through him we have spec'd a heavier duty bronze for the bushings and are also going to use a stainless steel sleeve to replace the ones Calmini supplies with the kit.

He assures me that if kept properly lubricated once installed, we may NEVER wear out these new ones. They will be ready in 3-4 weeks.

Once installed we will monitor them continually for performance and wear/play and report back. If they work out well I will post what materials we are using for those that also want to go the custom route.

Great news.

Lets re-cap.

1. Stock steering fails repeatedly at weak parts.

2. We buy Calmini to replace weak parts.

3. Calmini fails repeatedly.

4. We buy SOXC found part to replace weak Calmini.

5. ?

Damn if mine fail again is it possible to get a set? How much?

We *may* have an extra 4-5 sets available, once ready. If interested, email me at pete@XterraXcursions.com The extra sets will go out first-come-first-served. FYI - we are doing this at cost, we are NOT profiting from it.

Bare in mind that we are using superior materials that should last a LOT longer, but there are no guarantees until we have them on our own trucks and get a chance to really test them...

I have a Calmini steering system on my 01 Frontier and wore out the first set of idler arm bushings in less than six months. I didn't purchase the steering from Calmini direct but from another member here who had bought it for his Xterra but then decided to sell his X before he installed the steering. So with that said, I had to purchase the replacement bushings (approx $50.00) for the idler arm and now it seems that I have came accross yet another problem with the idler arm. I was told by Calmini that the first set was wore out due to not regreasing it every 3500 miles or sooner. So after installing the new bushings (with grease) I had notice that when it was time to grese it that I can't pump any new/fresh grease into the grease fitting at the idler arm housing. I first though that it was just a dirty and cloggged fitting so I used a small ice pick to push in on the grease fitting and wouldn't you know it grease started to come back out of the fitting at the idler arm like it was under pressure, so I know that it has grease in it. But once again I still can't pump any more grease into it...Now does anyone know what is up with not being able to pump fresh grease into the ider arm assembley. I though the grease would be able to purdge out and around the top and bottom idler arm bushings but it doesn't.......

After installing the new bushings I also can't get any grease in. I figure they will wear really fast now. I try every few weeks. Another guy I know is having the same thing happen to him. Not sure what it means.

Noticed the same problem, I believe it has to do with the tight/interference fit with the bushings and the idler arm (I actually had to press the bushings into the idler arm).

I've replaced them out about 2 months ago and have wheeled it twice since, so far no problem (knock on wood).

Same problem here, but not as drastic, just have to really jam on that grease gun! This is one of the things I had considered in the new bushings we are fabricating right now. One thing I thought about was machining grooves into the outside of the bushings both around the diameter (maybe 2-3) as well as along the length of the sleeve (maybe 4-5). With enough pressure applied they would allow the grease to be "chanelled" between the bushings and the idler arm bore. My only concern was possibility of increased wear due to the grooves, so I decided against it right now. Just have to see how the new material goes for the time being and hope that does the trick. Only a couple weeks to go and they'll be ready.

How have these new bushings that have been designed working out? I am ready to change to something that actually works myself so am very willing to pay for a "prototype". That's what I did when I bought the Calmini unit anyway, right? I think the grooves on the bushing should work as long as they don't have a sharp edge to them. A smoothed edge should greatly reduce any chance of excessive wear.

Why is no one holding Calmini responsible for their faulty product? Shouldn't they be replacing the parts? I don't understand why they are not addressing this and offering a solution.

Can someone from Calmini offer any response?

When I upgrade my steering, I'm avoiding Calmini like the plague.

Go ahead and avoid them like the plague. What you have not digested in this entire thread, and on this board, is that the issue is one that is suffered by all solutions right now (Calminis and SLRs). The problem is not the design but the strength of the components. Any other material that could do what the bushing is doing and not wear out is beyond our price range.

The Calmini SS is well worth the $489. If you don't believe that is true go spend $129 on the Nissan original and plan to replace it every other weekend, if you ever get out to wheel. Plan on putting your life on the line when it fatigues and wears out prematurely, and prepare to keep your fustrations to yourself. Modifying the angles on the steering is going to put stress somewhere. Would you rather not have a system that keeps you alive and well?

Yes, the solution has been difficult to get. The only option we have is to maintain the idler arm with lots of grease. Rotate it if you can. Replace the bronze bushings as necessary.

Your negative comments will get you nowhere.

OK, done. Be safe and happy wheeling.

Dude, I made no negative comment. That's why I asked if someone from Calmini would offer a response. I'd like to here it from them also.

My point was I dont want to spend $489 and then $40 or more a month to replace the bushings. Unless Calmini proives a solution I will go with SLR when I decide to purchase.

Settle down.

The first SOXC bushing has been installed in Xcited's rig. I'll remind him to check this thread and keep it updated as required!

They do look very good!

Excuse me for being upset and frustrated that the part Calmini claimed would do what it is intended to, does not....completely. Sure, it is bigger, beefier and stronger on all points but for one. If Calmini would inform their customers before their purchase that they will need to replace bushings at regular intervals then I would have no complaints. However they do not and I was misled into thinking that the only required "maintenance" on it would be to grease regularly. I have greased regularly and still have a failed bushing. If Calmini would ship out replacement bushings without charge, again I would little room to complain. They don't.

Any word on the longevity of the bushing designed by our fellow XOC'er?

SLR steering system is failing too??

Cause i havent heard that one. From what i hear the SLR components work great as long as you keep things greased and oiled.

I regularly replaced the bushings on the SLR kit I had too. It's not a Calmini specific issue.

Desert Rat, didnt you have the original SLR steering setup with the old bushings before he changed to bronze(i think) bushings?

I bought my SLR steering over two years ago and am still running the original bushings with no slop or play in the steering.
I grease them every once in a while and SLR said that eventually you'll need to rebuild it and he sells kits for new spherical bearings, and replacement bushings. When the time comes I'll be rebuilding it, but not for a while.

I have the bronze bushings and have had them on my first and second SLR steering set-up.

The first one was fine with no play for over a year with keeping it greased and the second one (necessary for a longer centerlink) has had no issues.

Are the bushings from a SLR kit interchangable on the Calmini?

Not even close. The SLR is just a beefed up stock idler arm and the Calmini is a from scratch redesign.

Everything looks good when it's new. I hate to break it to you guys but bushings wear out. I seriously doubt that the material composition that you used for the new bushings is that different from the off the self bushings that you can buy. Bronze bushings don't work that well for limited rotation applications, they work best for spinning shafts. In the steering system they receive wear in the same spot over and over in an area that is receiving a huge load.

I'm sure that Calmini has the capabilty to build an idler arm that is supported by bearings that would be much more stout but it would be $$$. We all know that everyone would bitch about that.

If your new bushings work that's great but I wouldn't hold my breath.

I'm no expert but, read below and tell me what you think.

Originally posted by Xcited

As most (or all) of you know, a few of us here have the Calmini steering system installed in our trucks and have been having problems with prematurely worn bushings in the Idler Arm assembly.

Well, I have a new bushing/sleeve kit from Calmini for mine, but before I install it I gave it to Tin Man to measure up, analyze and possibly improve on (since he is in the metals industry.)

Upon analysis, it appears that the existing material is weaker less resistant bronze for the system than what it should be, hence the rapid wear. (CDA932 / SAE 660 Bearing Bronze is what it appears to be.) Also, the sleeve in the assembly is plain cold rolled steel.

Tin Man has things started and is having new bushings/sleeves made for us from better materials. The new bushings will be made from CDA954 Aluminum Bronze and the sleeve will be made from 316 Stainless Steel.

Here are descriptions and strengths of the old and new bushing materials:

NEW BUSHINGS: CDA954 Aluminum Bronze

Generally used for bushings due to it's resistance to wetness & non-sparking quality. The marine industry, explosives, petroleum as well as the mining industry all utilize this alloy. It has a heavy-load carrying capability, resistance to corrosion & retains it's physical/mechanical strength at higher temperatures.

Tensile Strength: Minimum 85,000 psi
Yield Strength: Minimum 32,000 psi

EXISTING BUSHINGS: CDA932 / SAE 660 Bearing Bronze

Bearing Bronze is a leaded tin generally used for general utility bearings & wearplates for medium speeds & pressures. Bearing offers good wear resistance due to an excellent lubricating property & can be used for impact/shock loading.

Tensile Strength: Minimum 35,000 psi
Yield Strength: Minimum 20,000 psi

Tin Man says that, if properly maintained (lubricated), we *should* never wear theese bushing out. We are having 20 sets/kits fabricated. Whom ever wants them from here can buy them, then the rest will be offered up to other owners in other clubs.

So what is that like $10 american?

Glad to see that someone is directly addressing this problem.
Does the different material affect steering in any way?

Tensile Strength & Yield Strength don't mean anything, in the application at hand. If that were the case, then the yield strength of the bushing Calmini supplies would be more than adequate.

Tensile strength is the strength at which the material first starts to give (aka, stretch). Yield Strength is the max. strength it has when it breaks. What you need is to find out the compressive strengths (resistance to crushing), and it's hardness rating (resistance to rubbing off the material).

Those are the strengths that matter in comparing the materials. And no, having a higher tensile/yield strength doesn't mean it will have a higher compressive strenght, anywhatsoever. Look at Concrete. It has an extremely high compressive strength (upwards of 50,000 psi and sometimes even higher), but yet has an approximated tensile strength of 0 psi (Hence the reason for steel reinforcement).

I did some strengths of materials and similar courses when I was in college, but I won't even begin to pretend I remember any of that...

Our member that spec'd these materials works in the metals industry and says this meterial should work very well for the application... I am going on that and since I have a set now installed I will see how they wear. If they suck, hey at least I tried. If they are better, well that's a start.

I DO understand that bushings will wear, that's what they're SUPPOSED to do, :rolleyes: but I'm trying to find a material that will wear SLOWER and not have to be replaced every 3 months. Once a year I could live with...

I'm just trying to find a way to IMPROVE the current situation.

Again, I am more than happy to cough up some cash for another 'prototype' if it appears it will work.

I am in the process of installing tapered roller bearings in mine right now. I have all the parts drawn up that I need to machine. Once it's done, installed, and been proven with wheeling abuse then I'll post more detailed info. It won't be cheap but it won't be a bushing either.

TK1, Did you install a spherical bearing (or equivalent)previously or was that someone else? I remember reading on another forum that someone machined a stock centerlink to accept a spherical bearing or some type in an effort to fix the stock centerlink problem.

Yep that was me. It worked good for a long time too.

Did it Fail or did it wear out slowly?
Also, depending on which state you live in, arent Heim joint (spherical bearings) illegal for steering components on DOT approved vehicles?

Im just curious since this option was mentioned.
Im not looking to do any of this, Im hapy with my SLR system, just wondering how everything worked.

The only thing that failed was the stock idler am bushings. The way it was built joe safety inspector wouldn't have a clue that there were spherical bearings in there.

The SLR steering has basically what I did but on both sides of the centerlink.

Sounds like a problem...If the arm you returned is still good, you should get it back...unless the deal was that they use the old one to make new ones somewhere, etc...and it never mattered in the first place...if the deal was you get the old one back eitherway, that's different.

The $300 deposit question is fuzzy too...deposit on what? What happens if the unit is good/bad or the replacement is good/bad?....etc.

(If it wasn't agreed to before the mess commenced, there's no way to hold them to it....maybe replacement of the NEXT one won't require a new deposit?)

I like Calmini stuff, I have the steering system, and no problems after about 7K so far...but I did order a set of the (XterraXcursion?) experimental bushings...which will arrive shortly.... to try out when/if the time comes.

I went with SLR for the rest of the truck, and have had zero problems with customer service or performance.

Good Luck!

Heim joints and spherical bearings are two very different things.

That's a good question, but I know that CA is pretty strict and I am running Heim joints with no legal issues. (that I know of )

I never saw this before but here is an advisory on SLR's website:

"Off road use is hard on bushings. Be sure to replace them when they show signs of wear"

What is the calamini ss. I need and decent lift for an novice wheeler.

I ordered and received a bronze bushing with stainless steel insert from Xterra Xcursions the other day to replace the Calmini Steering Kit's bushing.

My Steering Kit has gone around 12K now w/o a problem...I grease it w/Mobil1 Grease every 3K or so...but I ordered the replacement bushings just in case, given the documented hassle of replacing w/new Calmini parts, etc.

As Received:


Separated:


On End:


Hope the new bushing works better than the Calmini version! And - If nothing else, I have a spare bushing.

Dido on the bushings, got mine about 2 days ago.
Big thanks to Pete for setting this up.

I must have missed something, but how can I order this "improved" set of bushings from Pete/Xterra Xcursions? $$$?

Matt, you'll have to read through the thread again. I think the offer's on page 3 or 4. I forget but I think there were only maybe half a dozen sets made as protos and they're all spoken for. I honestly don't see anything different in the pics TJ's posted compared to the replacement set I got from Calmini. I even decided not to replace my old set after inspecting them(the old bushings) as they showed no signs of wear. Do you or anyone have pics of the Calmini bushings after they've failed? I'm thinking MY SS prob is actually in the TREs.
Edit- LINK to that thread.

DBAX - I'm going on Faith here, but, they SHOULD look the same, as they have to fit into the same installation...and the only advantage was supposed to be that a higher quality bronze alloy was spec'd instead of the softer version Calmini was using....so, that would be an invisible difference anyway.



Just wanted to remind you of that, as you were making a decision based upon the book's cover so to speak, and its my job to look out for your well being.

I figured it was a metallurgical difference too
So, after two years of offroading ( ) on my SS, you think I should throw in the new bushings before replacing the TREs? I'd like to go one step at a time to help narrow down the possibilities. If it's not the TREs, in go the bushings, and if not the IAB bushings , I'm thinking hub assembly replacement

I'm always torn between wanting to do everything once the rig is up and the tools are out...and wanting to methodically eliminate one variable at a time...

:rolleyes:

It comes down to this:

If the goal is to be done w/it...and you don't care about diagnostics, just do everything.

If you really don't want to prematurely replace anything/scientific curiosity is nagging...do one at a time.

If you are going to do one at a time, do the one that you KNOW needs it first, and progress down the list towards the long shots at the end....

This can be proportionally adjusted to each items PITA and cost factors.



You can of course individually diagnose some of these things...the TRE's will allow play at the TRE...jack it up, wiggle the wheel, etc...see where the play is....the steering, same, have someone steer while you look at the play at the bushings, etc...This type of thing can save a lot of time over replacement and then seeing, etc.

Thanks Dan.

You can tell if it is the TRE or idler arm bushings just by lifting one tire of the ground and wiggling it to see what moves. I have gone through 3 sets of bushings. Just this last time I replaced both tierod assemblies after noticing my passenger side was bad on on end. But now, about 6 months later with only 2 offroad xcursions(2 days total of mild offroading), the 3rd set is bad....time to call Calmini for the 4th set.

They really should use a couple of spherical bearings in the idler arm.. It would be pretty much indestructible and would be much easier to maintain.

Cost-wise, it would run about $50 more for parts though.

John, can you make one? I'll go gnea pig for a while ...

Just a quick question. I am replacing my bushings this weekend and was wondering if anyone knows what torque I should use to tighten the nut.
I called Calmini and everyone is at Moab. Thanks

I asked Dave at calmini the same question and he said if you over tighten it the arm will bind and the bushings will wear even faster. I asked for a torque swtting and he said "make it tight, but not too tight".Maybe he shoulda just said "nobody here knows".

I'm getting my steering from Calmini in a week.
I am thinking about using 2 Y-bearing plummer blocks, by SKF, for the Idler arm connections.

If I make something I'll post pics, etc...

I would say to tighten it until there's no play...it has to be able to rotate, but if also allowed to move in other planes (Too much play), it will wear proportionally...so, just like he said...tight, but not too tight.



No one knows what the magic torque number is though....probably depends on the wear and tear to that point.

Yo Matt(KCX), do you have the ability to post a photograph of one of the three sets of worn bushings you've replaced?

MY Calmini Steering is less than 3 months. bushings are shot and Calmini told me that they dont even have bushing to replace them. Also told me to send in the idler arm assembly and they would inspect it,This Option would leave me without my daily driver for at least a week or more depending on how busy they are. Fasinating thing this Dave told me was that the original 30 Calmini Steering kits are still on the road and they they have experienced no problems at all with the Idler arm bushing. Hmmmmm I must have just gotten a bad one, When I mentioned other on the XOC have experienced similar problems I was told by this Dave that people will post anything on the XOC for other to believe.
AMAZING, where did customer service go...
Now I must find a fix for this. I can not afford to be buying right front tires because of this slop.
Other than an SAS anyone try to modify a sperical bearing assembly into the steering kit.
If so many people have problems with this Idler arm why hasnt Calmini recalled the part for safety reasons and fixed this.

Today I talked with a material engineer here at work, showed him the clamini bushings, explained him the job they do and some videos to make clear what we need in a bushing for our CSS.

After that, he said we can try NYLAMID. That is the trademark for a material made of some polimers like nylon, acetal and polietilen. Also, it comes with self lubricated options, it is loaded with bisulfur of molybdenum. It is machined with the same equipment to machine bronze pieces. It is used in some bushings and high stressed components of our heavy machines (Germany made) here in our plant.

Nylamid ( only english search ) seems to be the mexican brand of the material, because I couldnt find good english info about it. Should be a equivalent USA brand for this material.

Well, what I could find about Nylamid is this:

Some of the caracteristics of Nylamid:

Dimenisonal stability
Malleability
Wear resistance
dielectric resistance
mechanic resistance
chemical resistance
Thermic resistance
Rigidity

Nylamid SL (super lubricated) specs:

Density 1.16 gr./cm3
hardness (Shore-D) 85
Tension resistance 878 kg./cm2
Compression resistance 1,124 kg./cm2
flexion resistance 1,195 kg./cm2
Impact resistance 2.72 kg./cm2

Maybe someone with the proper knowledge can take a look at this specs and bring more light regarding the possible use of this material in our bushings.

The webpage (spanish) of this material is: http://www.nylamid.com.mx/

Specs of the Nylamid SL:
http://www.nylamid.com.mx/prop_nylamid_SL.htm

Specs of the Nylamid XL (eXtra lubrication):
http://www.nylamid.com.mx/prop_nylamid_XL.htm

Taking my X into my mechanic tomorrow to inspect the faulty Calmini steering. I suspect that my issue is the bushings as well. I have noted mixed responses by them. Anyone have last minute suggestions on how to solve this problem? Anyone know of another aftermarket bushing that will fit the Calmini steering system? Is it true that XterraXcurrions is out? I could not find them as noted by TJ on thier site.

Thanks in advance.

You have to call them...they don't list them on their site because they are still experimental...no one has had enough time on them to prove that they are any better than Calmini's.

They are made of higher quality materials, and it is hoped they work better...but, there's no definitive proof as of yet....I have them, in my garage....but the Calmini one's are still OK.

Well I'll be damned. I called Calmini and told them that my bushings were worn out. I also explained to them that these are the 3rd set I've worn through.

One of the folks there told me I was the only one who had gone through so many...

I have done everything suggested, and they still wear out in about 3 months, even quicker if you wheel alot. Greasing may help to slow this process down, but it's no fix.

I'm tired of calling these guys and getting attitude from them because their parts wear out too fast. There isn't alot of play as of yet, but once it starts it goes quick. My guy who does the alignment on my truck says he won't touch it until the bushings have been replaced.

I also told the guys at Calmini that I build high-speed molding equipment and I was interested in helping them to find a permanent solution. The guy told me "well, I'm not an engineer dude, so you are talking to the wrong guy." Then he babbled a bit about his drumset and told me to put my recommendations in an e-mail. Yeah right.

If Calmini doesn't come up with a solution for this, seems to me that there would be grounds for class-action against them. They better pray that there isn't a failure that causes someone to wreck their truck. The design is safe enough, but the weak link to me would be the bolt. Hopefully there isn't enough stresses on the bolt to cause it to break. (it's highly unlikely, but I've seen several things fail that were built not to)

Calmini did say they would put me on the list to get a new set. But at this point, I'm looking to find some other, better made bushing kits. Besides, I need to replace these worn ones sooner than 3 months. (they say that's how long it could take to get the new ones)

How disappointing.

They now have a list! of people who need replacements? I'd use some of the info from people around here that know something about metal, and try to find some locally.

Aqua, you are not the only one who has gone through 3 sets. I'm on my third set also.
When I called last time they had an attitude over the phone. I was a tad pissed. I do still have faith in Calimini but they could go further without attacking someone over the phone.
I still plan on their SAS kit.

What ever happend to that Miracle cure for the bushings??

It has been several months since the ones that were talking about that have said anything.

Well?? Anyone? Anyone? Beuller?

What happend to the miracle cure all for the bushings?

The guys in Canada had the bushings made.

And??

And they are installed and being tested to see if they last longer.

I deal with CALMINI by email. I always have very attentive, kind and quick communication, doing what they promised. So no complains in this regard.

I'm tellin you guys.. Do something about the problem rather than complaining. Its not that hard of a fix.

Take the idler to any competent machine shop and have them mill the inner radius out 1/16" to a depth of 3/4" (or deeper.. mill as needed to allow a nice fit into the Calmini idler arm mount) top and bottom to fit two spherical bearings.

Have them cut down the original sleeve to fit between the two bearings so there will be no static side loading on the spherical joints once its all tightened up. Reinstall, Torque the bolt down. Grease it up and go wheeling..

Here is the part you will need.. order two of these and take them with the arm to the machine shop.

McMaster-Carr Extended life ball joint bearing. #2699K13 .. $23.07

through hole I.D.: 1"
Outer Diameter: 1 5/8"
spherical bearing width: 7/8"
casing width: 3/4"
Spherical bearing swivel: 14°
Static Radial load capacity (lbs): 37,700

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Any machine shop will do this for you for less than $100. If you have a friend with a good metalworking lathe, you could have it done for a case of beer.

The Calmini arms are made from billet 4140 heat treated steel alloy. This material will have NO problem handling the use of these bearings. My steering was constructed from heat treated 4130 and had the bearings closer together (ie: more radial load and impacts exerted on them) and it was just fine.

BTW, I ran smaller 25,000lb rated spherical bearings on my custom centerlink setup for over a year with no issues.. I sold it when I SAS'd and its still being used today on another truck, after 3 years of hard abuse, on the original bearings with *zero* slop. And it didnt even have grease zerks to lube the bearings.

I like your idea datz510. Do you have pics?

BTW, I have measured an original/new Calmini set of bushings & sleeve, and measured the set I removed last weekend from my truck showing play: it lost .001" in the sleeve and .001" in the bushings.

I've never modified the Calmini setup (my rig is SAS'd with a D44 now), but theres no reason that it wouldnt work. The bearings would completely eliminate the wear that is showing up on the arms. With the spherical bearing setup, the bearing to arm contact is static and all movement is entirely within the bearing itself.

I've looked at the dimensions of the Calmini arm, the bushings, and the mounting bracket, and the bearings I found will work well with it. The Calmini bolt is 1" diameter so should work perfectly with the above mentioned bearings. Like I said, any machine shop will know how to do it... just tell them exactly what you want and take them all the parts so they can machine it and assemble it for you.

Why the choice of the ball joint bearing vs. needle bearings or a timken bearing?

use sphericals because timken & needle bearings are expensive, and usually larger for the same shaft diameter.

I ordered my bearings this morning and will try doing this. I'll take pictures and let everyone know how it turns out.

Axle

So how's it working out so far?

Ooooh the frustration!

Axle, you can change your club to RMXC. Keep us informed as there are several RMXCers fed up with the crappy design.

Well here's the bearings.



I should get my idler arm machined this week so I'll be ready for the run this weekend. Once again I'll take pictures and let everyone know how it turns out.

Axle

I received my idler arm back from Calmini yesterday. It's been rebuilt with their new process and materials.

I will put it on tonight and finally drive my X to work again

I sure hope the challenge has been solved !!!

Good to hear Roger..

Let us know how it works out. Take pics.

I should get mine back from the machine shop today also. I'll take pictures and let everyone know how it turns out.

Axle

Sweet

Scratch that, it'll be tomorrow.

Axle

Axle,

I may want to spend the $ to get the work done on my spare idler arm. When you are done, I may want to check it out. It is only a few miles north to Colo. Springs.

Todd

I'm still running on the original Calmini bushings...I think 15K or so,... so far...no problems. (I have the Xcursion improved versions on deck if I need them, I just thought it would be sooner.

I just exchanged my idler arm out for a rebuilt one from calmini under warranty its supposed to have been improved and hopefully will be the end of the problem. My original one had about 35k miles on it with the bushings replaced once. I'd like to thank Steve and the rest of the guys at calmini for helping me get back on the road after the centerlink tie rod became damaged and unusable.

Well here it's done.

Here it is with the new bearing in it.



And here it is installed in the brace.



The bearings are just slightly larger than the original holes for the bronze bushings. The bearings were slightly pressed into place so they wouldn't rotate in their hole. The original sleeve had to be turned down to fit inside the new bearings and it too was slightly pressed into place so the only movment in there should be where it's supposed to occur. There is ZERO slop in this new setup.

Well I'm going to go and grease it up and put it on the truck to test it out this weekend. I'll report back on how it does.

Axle

Damn, I really want to check that out. I should be up to St. Elmo Sunday.

Essentialy what you have done is build a hub-n-bearing assembly. Which is used in alot of front wheel drive cars and accepts radial and axial loads. Might just do the trick.

good luck! I hope to see this resolved

Hows it holding up?

Josh

Well I took it out this weekend and wheeled on it for a day. It still appears the same as it was before. No slop at all and holding up well.

Axle

Very nice, Axle...

Glad to see you took my advice on the bearings. From my experience, that setup will be pretty much indestructible and should outlast the truck.

Well i'm doing it, i just ordered my bearings. Called calmini to see if they would just sell me the arm and the sleeve itself, so if things went bad i wouldnt be screwed, but they said no. O well.

Josh

Hey Josh, come check us out
HERE

We're close by with a few members in Morgantown and Fairmont.

Bearings came today. I am having trouble finding a shop that will work on the part. The three close ones I’ve been to so far say they won’t do it for liability reasons. I suggested that I just bring them the arm and the bearing so they "don’t know" that it is for a vehicle. One shop agreed, but with them not being open on the weekends, and me having two classes plus research during the week, would be really tuff. I was planning on having them take the part off since I don’t really have the tools here to take it off, plus transportation would become difficult. Was thinking about renting a car, but what a pain. It looks like I might have to wait till the end of this semester before I can get it installed. Sorry, just needed to vent my frustration. What ever happened to giving a guy 50 bucks under the table to do you a favor? I even told them I’d give him 200 bucks cash if we could do it on the weekend so I wouldn’t have to deal with taking it off, and dealing with transportation, no dice though.

You don't have a buddy with a car you could inconvenience for a couple of days while you get your truck fixed? I know it's a pain but it's worth it in the end.

Axle

Mine will be on tommorrow with the sherical bearings.

It is on and good to go.

Solid??? Extremely.
Worth the cost??? You bet.

Kind of a pain but if you let the machinist know ahead of time they may be able to get it done in a day.

I will post every month or so to let you know how it is holding up on the crappy roads I drive daily.

Sooo, what the verdict after a month of testing??

Going good.. I have been on 3 what I would call real trips and beat it pretty good in that period and of course rough crappy dirt roads I am living on.

There was a bit of play but I just had to tighten the bolt up.

Going strong.

what's the major advantage to installing the idler arm? is it worth the problems everyone is seeming have?

Got my bearings from McMaster the other day. Hoping I can get them installed next week so I can finally get my truck aligned

Did Calmini fix the problem yet? I am running a PML and really wanted to add the full 3" with steering. Not liking the costs of the other systems. Calmini is affordable but I don't want to deal with the bushing issue.

The problem is being fixed, but I've been waiting for my system since the end of July. They claimed that they would be shiped by the second week in Sept, but that didn't happen.

I am not intending to start anything, but not everyone w/ Calmini SS is guranteed to have the problem. I don't know anyone in our club having the problem. The (1st gen.) system is on my truck for the last 40,000+ miles, and I have not had the problem, either.

I would like to know why some have the problem repeatedly, and there are others who don't at all, though... You know...identifying the true cause of the problem.

And, yes, I'm glad that there is a solution to those who keep having the bushing problem.

PaNissanX
Did they say what they are doing to fix the problem????

I ordered my steering and asked about the problem. Aside from the guy on the phone turning into a total dick when I asked he said the bushing was never bad. It was the housing of the bushing and that it is all fixed.

So does that mean the ones that the rest of us bought a few years ago were defective? They replaced mine 3 times and yet today I had to replace the bushings yet again. And yes, there was plenty of grease in there.

I have no idea... I guess we will see since I ordered the kit. I wasn't about to drop 1k into just steering. When I brought up the question to Calmini on the phone the sales rep got real defensive really quick. I told him I read the message boards and have seen NUMEROUS people having the same issue with the bushing. At this point he started to become snide with me saying how it wasn't the bushing. I asked him how that was possible with so many people posting with the problem. This is when I was told it was the "sleeve". I just said whatever and placed my order. I'm not about to argue with someone over the damn phone about this. At the same time though I don't want to drop more money into steering and Calmini seems to be a good quality other than the issues people were having. Guess I'll report back once it is installed.

I'm interested to see what they did to fix the problem. I really do believe that the rest of their steering system is far overbuilt but the idler arm did need some improvement. For an extra $150 to get the bearings and have the idler arm machined I still believe that you get a better product than anyone else offers.

I was sent new bushings twice and made sure that they stayed greased. The last set got sloppy after one weekend of wheeling. I gave up trying to put new ones in after that. Of coarse I think I may wheel my truck a little harder than the average person. I really do use my skidplates.



Axle

Axle, how do your LCAs look? Any tears along the shock mount welds?

I'm starting to develop the stress fractures where the shocks mount to the LCA's. Only on the passenger side now though because the drivers side LCA recently got replaced. My lower ball joint was about ready to rip out of the arm.

Axle

Shit the bed! I tell you man, I think they got a bad batch of metal there in '01... I'm beginning to wonder how much more mine'll take..

Yeah Im real Interested as to see what they came up with here. From your description of what they told you having a hard time seeing any change. I'd like to drop the $1500 on the system but am not gonna unless i can steer the damn thing reliably.

I had my LCA shock mounts welded up this week. The driver's side was cracked around the mount and had migrated down the side. The passenger's side wasn't so bad, just some cracking on one side of the mount. Unfortunately, I didn't take any before pictures, but you can use your imagination.

Driver's side:






Passenger side:





Troy

Thanks for the pics guys, I'm sure mine'll be up soon enough too, as I'm headed to my welders soon for some extensive work. I swear the way the sheetmetal's ripping on my rig, I'm tempted to keep my chassis/engine/drivetrain and make the first Nissan Calmini SAS XTERRA buggy Tear off all the sheetmetal, right down to the frame and than weld on a cage, and my roofrack

I'm really interested in finally doing this mod. I know someone with a Lathe that would help me out, but i'm not exactly sure what i'm supposed to tell him that i want done. Soo...could someone put this in layman's terms??

Are you enlarging the Diameter of the Bushing hole... or just making it deeper?

And as for the whole second part.. i am just confused.

That is just wrong.

With all the tears I have seen on the 2001 Xterra's I would be concerned if I owned one made in that year.

But what you have in that pic is just off the hook. Were you launching your Xterra on a regular basis or was that just from "normal" wheeling? What did the other side look like?

The damage is just from "normal" wheeling. Although I'm not really sure how much extra stress the rocks out on Cali put on the truck.

Axle

Any news on if Calmini is going to warranty or pro rate the older, defective idler arms?

Yep I just had my LCA Shock mounts welded yesterday, Both sides.

The Ball Joints are fine but DAMN insane!!

BUMP....Axle or Alpine? Could either of you help me out here?


Thanks in advance.

The hole will be enlarged about .10" to make room for the new bearings. It should only go deep enough to seat the bearing flush on both sides. The original sleeve that fits between the bronze bushings and the bolt will have to be turned down to fit inside the new bearings. However with the new bearings there is nothing to keep the idler arm from sliding up and down the sleeve since there is nothing outside of the arm itself to fill the gap between the arm and the brace. Therefore the original sleeve only need to have part of it turned down to fit inside of the new bearings. The rest of it should be left it's original diameter in order to fill the gap between the arm (bearing) and the brace.

Axle

Here's a picture to help you out. I know the drawing sucks but it should help you get an idea of what's going on.



The red is the idler arm

The purple is the brace

The blue are the new bearings

The black is the sleeve

Axle

Cool!

Thanks for your help. Nice Drawing!

BUMP Its now October. :p

Axle...Alpine? Anything new?

Goin Good. Thought something was thunking but it turns out I just needed to replace the UCA bushings.

No issues with the fix. Tight and going strong, I am still greasing monthly too.

No problems here either.

Axle

Well thats good news!

Yep, looks like spherical bearings and body lifts for Xmas..

I'm going to do this soon.

Good to hear it's still going strong. It should outlast your truck, as its very hard to kill those spherical bearings.

Ok, so I bought and installed my Steering System in June '05, knowing some people had problems, but also having been told by Calmini (and reading what was posted here) that and about 3 months later with just one (that's one) wheeling trip (ECXC) and greasing the bushing every 3000 miles - worn idler arm bushing...

Note the use of the phrases " correct the chronic problem of a worn idler arm " and " a durable Bronze bushing."

So what we have here is a clear case of False Advertising, since we have here an 11 page thread about people's bushings wearing in what is clearly a chronic problem of a worn idler arm...
so after spending ~$500 on a steering system which does not perform as clearly advertised, I have to pay for the production of new bushings and the machining of the provided Idler arm...

So can anyone explain why Calmini is still selling the same steering system as before without fixing anything, but describing in it's ad on it's webpage that it This system is simple, durable, completely serviceable, and requires no modification to stock parts or vehicle.

I feel the same way. After wheeling last weekend, I was getting a front end cluck. Jacked up the front of the truck, and the idler arm is loose as hell.

I greased mine after every off-road trip, at least every 1K, it is 10 months old, and worn out already. I will do the bearing mod, but this is the first aftermarket part that I would say just plain sucks.

Calmini needs to step up to the plate and fix these for free, with no hassles.

Now I have 6 months with my own idler arm bushings, these are machined here in a local shop with bronze 64 (the shop´s guy told me that calmini uses standard bronze, weaker, 64 = the strongest), and they seem good until now, have had good off-road action w/them...

What's weird is I have the Calmini steering kit on for about 30K now, never a problem, still tight....the old design.

I assumed it was about to fail based on everyone's problems, and got a set of harder bushings (posted in this thread somewhere...) as spare set for when I needed them...

They're still sitting in the garage.

I used Mobil1 grease every 3k or so, and after froading.

I feel so left out, I don't know what I'm doing differently.

Yeah I dont know what the difference is. Not everyone is getting the problem.

Any news or noticable wear Axle & Alpine?

Anyone else done the mod?

I did it in November or 2005 -
No problems, no wear as of yet...

As for the cause of the problem - when I had mine doen, the shop that did the milling mentioned that bronze stock gets sold in different grades. I'm wondering if the grade of bronze got changed somewhere along the lines, either with or without Calmini's knowledge.

Has Calmini figured out their fix for this issue yet?

I have just a little bit of play in the arm.

I just looked at it the other day and well, the play I am gettin is from hosing 3 out of 4 tie rod ends, arghhhh. Oh well, pay to play.

Also someone else spoke to Calmini I know and they said:
"We will send you a new assembly for $60, we will keep you credit card on file until we recieve the old one back" so they will send out a whole new assembly but if you fail to send it back they will charge you more for not sending back the "core".

So they are charging more to "fix" the part which is chronically breaking in their Steering System which they advertised as Interesting.

Add another number to the list of failed arms.. mine is sloppy now.

Grease your bushings!

J/K ...

Get stronger bushings...

Update
Mine went bad again in July of 2006. The bearings are still fine, but my sleeve wore where it contacts the idler arm brace and that allowed movement with the idler arm.

So, the bearing is holding out, but the sleeve has worn instead? Is this giving the same symptoms as the worn original bushings (clunk, play, tire wear)???
How about you guys that have replaced with the higher grade bushing (non-Calmini)? How's that holding out?
And lastly, has anyone purchased a new Calmini SS lately, and if so, any problems with that?
I'm sure many of us would like to know. I, myself am planning to purchase one fairly soon, and would like to know what to expect. Thanks!

Just to be a PITA...

I got replacement bushings made from better metal assuming my Cal's would fail any day due to the problems others were having.

That was almost 80K miles ago.

My steering kit has lasted over 80k, and I checked it at about 80K, and it was perfect.

My tie-rod ends are ALL shot to hell....but my bushing is spiffy....so I still have the replacement bushings sitting in the garage waiting....if the originals ever DO fail.

Yep -same symptom as before...

The problem is the sleeve - the top portion (which remains unmilled to fill the gap between the bearing and idler arm brace) is where the wear occured. So the idler arm slides up and down the bolt. If anything, it was worse than before.

Before you buy the Calmini SS -

I've now been waiting since Oct 2005 for a warrentied replacement idler arm or refund without receiving anything...

I just rebuilt my whole front end which included removing the Calmini steering. Granted mine did hold out to about roughly 55k, it's nice not to hear the "death rattle" anymore.

If you do the bearing fix, the inner portion of the bearing, and the arm brace MUST make a solid stack without the inner sleeve contacting the arm brace (the inner sleeve should have only the presure of the 2 bearings pusing against it NONE from the arm brace.) You need to turn the sleeve and mill the arm to fairly tight tolerances so that the inner and outer bearing surfaces are seated firmly at the same time. This allows you to torque the bolt very tight (as in 200 ft/lbs) and the arm will still move freely.

I have done a few of these and redone one which was done fairly well but without attention to a couple crutial measurements. If done properly the spherical bearing fix should last for a long long time. If done improperly it will be no better than a faulty bronze bushing.

That isn't what Axle posted when he posted this diagram on page 9...
With mine, if I had the sleeve milled down completely to fit inside the bearins, there would be a space between the brace and idle arm - which was there in the original part but occupied by the outer flanges of the bronze bushing. So to do what I think you are describing, I'd either have to bend my Idler arm brace, or I'd have to have a new IAB made by someone.

If you have ever set up skateboard wheels you know that a small spacer is required between the bearings. This allows you to tighten the axle bolt without binding up the bearings. The Wheel also has a surface which the bearing bodies tighten against.

When I have done this mod I measure the opening in the IA brace and calculate how deep to machine the arm so that once installed, the bearings match that measurement. I then turn the inner sleeve with a step on each side deep enough that the bearings slide in and the sleeve is recessed about 0.01" on each end. Without seeing yours I cant say what would be required to make it work. I will try to post a little drawing of how I have machined the ones I made.

I have a degree as a Tool Maker and have designed progressive dies, multi-cavity injection molds and have programmed CNC mills and lathes for the last 8 years. There is always a way to get from what you have to what you want!

This is how I machine the spherical bearing mod.


Purple is the arm
Blue is the bearing race/body
Red is the bearing
Black is the inner sleeve
Green is the I.A.Brace

You should be able to see how you can tighten this as much as you like and the arm and bearing race will turn freely while the brace, sleeve, and bearing will be completely solid mounted to your frame. You can also see the only place where any slop can be a factor is from the bearing/race fit. These bearings are rated at 35k lbs each and should wear for the life of your truck if kept lubricated.

I would like to note that the fit between the bearing and the race does give a small amount of wiggle in this application.

That is a problem in states (like mine) where to pass inspection the steering can not have any play in it.

If the steering components move when you try to wiggle the tire, you fail inspection.