daaaaanmmm!!! is that a 15" sub?

nice work tho

mtbcyclist, check your PM's... you've got one from me. thanks!

Yep, it an Orion H2 15.4 4 ohm dual voice coil rated for 2000W RMS 2500 peak. Thanks for the thumbs up.

Holy sheeiitt!! That is a BFS (bit freakin speaker!)

I thought my single 10 ratled my X pretty good. That one probably rattles the rear view mirror off.

Nice work!

Thanks MTB. It's got a lot of power to it. I'm driving it with an Orion 8002 in bridged mono, 800W RMS at 4 Ohms. I don't dare turn my headunit up past halfway, it just too damn loud. But I wanted a system that would impress visually just as much as it does audibally. Orion stuff is not as popular as JL, Alpine, etc. but you'll find it at a lot of competitions. I have an Orion 4004 driving all of my separates: Orion 6.5's in the front door factory location, JBL tweeters in the front pillars, JBL 6.5's in the rear doors and Clarion tweeters above the rear seatbelts. The sound stage kicks ass, and the orion is driving it all at 100W x 4 at 2 Ohms. Surprisingly the Sub really doesn't drown out the mids or highs. I just want to get a remote gain control for the sub amp so I can crank it up when the urge arises and I'll be done with the system in this truck. That is until I get the double din DVD/Navigation unit that Kenwood makes!!

Hey we'll have to hook up in a few weeks. I'll be moving from Pittsburgh to Raleigh (Wendell to be exact) at the end of August. I'll be leaving behind a great club in the Western PA Xterra Club that I started 5 years ago so I'm going to hopefully start another club in the Triangle after I get settled in.

Brian

Sounds good to me. Send me a PM or post out here when you move down here to Raleigh.

mtbcyclist - how did you get the netting out of the way - did you cut it out or is there a way to remove without destroying?

Also - any specific tips on how to pull the rear panel out? I have the service manual but it is not very helpful.

BTW - I am chickening out on the fiberglass for now. I am trying to do an MDF box but not sure how its going to turn out.

I destroyed it. My system is permant. I buy vehicles I really like and keep them forever so I really did not care what happened to it.

1. Remove the cargo rail. When you do that use the right size screw driver and a lot of weight behind it because if you don't you will strip it and then you are hosed.

2. There are 2 (or three screws) you must remove. One is where the roll out cargo cover goes. One is under a small cap that must be popped off near the rear hatch. I can't remember if ther is another one because I am not looking at my X right now.

3. Pull forcefully but gently and it will come off.

**** This does not remove it but allows you to get behind it. If you truely want to remove it you must take out the rear seat. I did not do that and worked around it.

Fiberglass is not that hard. I am a first timer at it and look what I did. Just take your time and ask for pointers. If you need other advice just ask.

Thanks mtbcyclist - as always great advice.

My thoughts on the enclosure are to go with MDF and then finish out with fiberglass, e.g., smooth out the edge from the MDF to the body panels with fiberglass/bondo. Hoping this ends up being easier than your project - and while I am learning about fiberglassing I will have an operational MDF box - which may not look great but should sound great.

Here's a snapshot of what I got done today:



As you indicated - there is plenty of volume available for a 10" - I will probably have to add sand as you suggested to get bring volume down to .6

This is probably a really dumb questions but, When you screw the amp to the floor,how are you doing that? Are you drilling holes in the floor and screwing the amp into it? If so, what do you do to prevent any rust and so forth?

Also, the crossovers? How do people affix them inside a door? Do they use 2 sided tape?

if the screws poke through to an area exposed to elements, use some silicone. As for xovers, I try not to mount them in the door, as the moisture is bad for them. Try to get them inside your dash someplace, and pull 4 (instead of 2) wires into the door. If you must mount them in the doors, double sided tape, zip ties, and small screws all do the trick.

Covering them with a plastic bag is a good idea if you insist on putting them in the doors.

Cross over in door = bad idea. Weather, pounding of door being slamed etc.

Look at my crappy picture. Its aginst the drivers side front quarter panel up under the dash. There was a bit of bare metal I mounted them. Kind of a pain in the arse to do it but it turned out very good. Out of site and out of mind, and not in the door. It may not work if you have anthing but an 05 X.

^true...tons of room there, thats where i have mine mounted at as well.

plus its even more of a bitch to run two speaker wires thru the door if you place your crossover in the door. the tweeter being located on the dash would have to run to the door just to get to the crossover.

For what its worth - I put the x-overs under the driver seat along with the 4 ch amp. All items that may need adjustment are all in one spot. I'd post a picture but its in shameful condition right now - mine is one of those ongoing install projects!

HA!! tell us about it.

its ok. post up pics...dont know if you can top the pictures that are on the 1st page of this thread.

^Bump^

Figured I would get this thread back at the top of da list since I see a lot of folks are thinking about putting 10" subs in there Xs. 10" w/ 600 watts RMS of alpine power rocks! Its all ya need unless you want to let the neighbors down the street know you are comming home or you like the rap that shakes yer brain bucket (aka skull!)

n2 or mtbcyclist:

im creating a custom box for my 00, to house my 10" solobarric L7. So, Ive got two questions.

1. Ive already got 2 thin layers covering 90% of my box. Is this thick enough? If not how thick should I go?

2. When mounting up the box, how did you attach it to you body and interior?

I attached to the interior plastic. Used two bolts comming from the back side of the plastic though the box. I placed large washers out behind the plastic to displace the stress on the plastic a bit. I then ran the bolts to the inside of the box where I used a couple of lock nuts and washers to finish it off. I then caulked it with silicone house caulk to seal it up.

If I did it again I would put a bolt though the floor too because when I hit large bumps it sounds like it is shaking the box pretty bad since that sub is a lot of weight. Hard to tell but I am going to sit back there and see if it is really shaking it when my wife drives it over a bumpy road. If it is I am going to remove my sub from the box and bolt it to the floor.

As far as thickness I think I did about three. When I was done it was pretty darn strong.

Other then the bolt throught he floor issue it has worked out great. Good luck.

To increase your thickness without haveing to add more chop mat you can buy a can of the 404 thickener from a West Marine store, it's like $11 for a can and is enough to mix with a full gallon of resin. It's a powder you add to the resin the thicken it up. After cutting out the opening for your sub just mix the powder with the resin to a nice thick consistency then add your MEKP. Pour it into the enclosure and start spreading it around paying attention to the corners and where the sub will mount to. Do this in several layers and you can make your box up to an 1" thick. I did mine to 3/4". This is a lot cheaper and less of a PITA than adding layer after layer of chop may. Not too mention you don't have to worry about it looking pretty since it will all be on the inside of the box. just my .02.

Brian

For those who are interested -- I finally finished building and carpeting my sub box. It fits directly into the pocket on the passenger side just past the wheel well.

As you can see I went with MDF rather than fiberglass - not for any reason other than I just don't have any experience working with fiberglass.

I was able to get .7 cubic feet out of this enclosure - just above the .65 that is optimal for a non-ported enclosure for Alpine Type R 10" subs. The system sounds incredible - I can't say enough about the sound coming out of my Alpine system.

Anyway - here are the pics.

Nice work. Did not think a wood box would look that good but I was wrong.

To increase your thickness without haveing to add more chop mat you can buy a can of the 404 thickener from a West Marine store, it's like $11 for a can and is enough to mix with a full gallon of resin. It's a powder you add to the resin the thicken it up. After cutting out the opening for your sub just mix the powder with the resin to a nice thick consistency then add your MEKP. Pour it into the enclosure and start spreading it around paying attention to the corners and where the sub will mount to. Do this in several layers and you can make your box up to an 1" thick. I did mine to 3/4". This is a lot cheaper and less of a PITA than adding layer after layer of chop may. Not too mention you don't have to worry about it looking pretty since it will all be on the inside of the box. just my .02.

Brian[/QB][/QUOTE]

Ive been using the stuff from the start. Im up to a 1/4" inch, think im gonna stop at that. About to attach my Wood panels to it now, a la N2(kinda ripped off his design).
My next question is, when I attach the mdf and cardboard tubing (for curved edges), should I FG it or just pour in the mix with the thickener?

Well, this thread and N2's page have helped me greatly. I am almost done with the box and will be posting pics soon. But I have 2 remaining questions.

1. The box is 3/8" thick minimum for FG should I bring this up to 1/2", 5/8", or is it not worth it and leave it as is?

2. When bolting into the floor, should I tap the holes and bolt direct into the body/floor or should I drill and just use lock nut and bolt?

[QUOTE]Originally posted by pburgh:
[QB]Of the two dash photos we've got in this post, I see two different dash kits... one being the Scosche and I can't seem to figure out what the first member used? I'd prefer the one with the wider pocket...anyone know what it is?:



I would also really like to know the brand of this dash kit and where it can be found... thanks