Hey all,

I was looking for some info regarding the installation of aftermarket Gauges & placement.

I decided to have a vendor(Big Johns , Valencia) install them for me & here's what they look like, along with some working info :

2002 Xterra 2WD ;85,000 miles
8-29-07;1600 hrs:Valencia C.A.: 112 degrees on my Vehicles Temp Gauge,Local weather reports 108.
Interstate 5 freeway; 65 miles per hr; 25 min drive.

New Aftermarket Parts Installed:
Transmission Cooler with spin on Filter.
3 Core Radiator.

Oil:
Mobile 1 10/30 Oil
Mobile 1 Transmission Fluid

Autometer Gauges: Readings during test drive 65 MPH
1. Oil Pressure Gauge :65
2. Water Temp Gauge : 195 (Solid Temp reading after warming up)
3. Transmission Temp Gauge:165 + average temp/ high of 180 in stop go street traffic.





L.M.

Welcome aboard, I'm looking into a gauge pod myself, that's a good example.

Hey Everyone ,
Here’s a bit of additional info, along with some “ Web Search Tech Info “ copied & edited:

TEST DRIVE RESULTS
8-29-07/9-8-07: Valencia C.A.: Interstate 5 freeway; 65 miles per hr; 25 min drive.

Autometer Gauges readings during test drive 65 MPH :
1. Oil Pressure Gauge: Mobile One 5-40 Motor Oil : At standstill idle after warm up 15 psi : 65 + psi during freeway drive.

2. Water Temp Gauge: Solid Temp reading after warming up “ 195 + “
(Factory Thermostat Rating of 190 + degrees ?? ; 50/50 Coolant mix).

3. Transmission Temp Gauge: Mobile One Synthetics ATF ;165 + average temp Morning Drive to work,0600 hrs: 180+ average temp in Afternoon Traffic going home,1600 hrs.

Local Weather Reports 75+ degrees in mornings, to a high of 90 + - 115 + Temps late afternoon.

FYI:
Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF is a multi-vehicle, fully synthetic fluid designed to meet the demanding requirements of modern passenger vehicles:

Typical Properties ; Mobile 1 Synthetic ATF
Viscosity, ASTM D 445
cSt @ 40º C 34
cSt @ 100º C 7.6
Brookfield Viscosity, ASTM D 5293
-cP @ -40º C 5190
Viscosity Index, ASTM D 2270 199
Pour Point, ºC, ASTM D 97 -54
Flash Point , C , ASTM D 92 , ** 236 **
Density @15º C kg/l, ASTM D 4052 0.86
Color Red

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID TEMPERATURE
An automatic transmission accomplishes the gear shift
using a complicated set of components that use oil flow
acting on turbine blades. During this process, heat is
generated from the friction of the fluid churning inside the
torque converter as well as friction created from
movements of clutch plates, gears, and bearings. Cooling
of transmission fluid is critical. Normally, the oil is
circulated to a heat exchanger in the lower radiator.
Under harsher conditions, auxiliary cooling is necessary.

Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) has a life of about
100,000 miles at 175oF. At high temperatures, it oxidizes,
turns from red to brown and exhibits a burnt smell. In
addition to reducing the oil’s lubricating quality, high
temperature produces a varnish on internal parts
interfering with the operation of the transmission.

ATF manufacturers suggest that for every 20oF. increase
in operating temperature above 175oF., the life of the fluid
is cut in half. Hence at 195oF., oil life will be about 50,000
miles.

*** ABOVE 240oF. *** it becomes nil. Without adequate
cooling...

*** ABOVE 250oF. *** rubber seals harden, leading to pressure loss and
leaks. Also, the transmission can slip. In the worst cases,
clutches fail and costly repairs result.

Driving conditions determine the likelihood of generating
high ATF temperature. These include trailer towing,
climbing hills or mountains, stop-and-go driving, repeated
drive-to-reverse shifting, and high ambient operating
temperatures…. Since the vehicle’s cooling system helps to cool
the transmission fluid, low coolant levels and dirty
radiators can add to the problem.

High ATF temperature will add heat to your radiator, possibly overheating the
engine coolant. Many new truck models have a
transmission oil temperature gauge installed as a standard
feature…. If your truck does not and you suspect that the
fluid is getting too hot during operation, consider adding
an after-market temperature sensor and gauge….

OVERHEATING
Internal combustion engines run on heat. Chemical energy in the fuel is transformed into thermal energy when the fuel burns, which produces mechanical energy to push the pistons, spin the crankshaft and drive the vehicle down the road….
As efficient as today’s engines are, they still waste a lot of the heat energy they produce. The average gasoline engine is only about 22 to 28 percent efficient. That means over two-thirds of the heat produced by each gallon of fuel either goes out the tailpipe or is soaked up by the engine itself…..

Ironically, the hotter an engine runs the more efficient it becomes. But there’s a limit because aluminum pistons and heads can only get so hot before they start to soften and melt. The same goes for cast iron…..

How Hot IS TOOO HOT
Most engines today are designed to operate within a "normal" temperature range of about *** 195 to 220 degrees F. *** A relatively constant operating temperature is absolutely essential for proper emissions control, good fuel economy and performance….

A 50/50 mixture of water and ethylene glycol antifreeze in the cooling system will boil at 225 degrees if the cap is open. But as long as the system is sealed and holds pressure, a radiator cap rated at 15 psi will increase the boiling temperature of a 50/50 coolant blend up to
*** 265 degrees ***

If the concentration of antifreeze to water is upped to 70/30 (the maximum recommended), the boiling temperature under 15 psi of pressure goes up to 276 degrees.

So does this mean a cooling system with a maximum concentration of antifreeze in the coolant (70 percent) can run as hot as 276 degrees without boiling over?

Theoretically yes - but realistically no..

The clearances in most of today’s engines are much, much closer than those in engines built in the 1970s and early 1980s. Piston-to-cylinder clearances are much tighter to reduce blowby for lower emissions. Valve stem-to-guide clearances also are closer to reduce oil consumption and emissions, too. Plus, many engines today have aluminum heads with overhead cams. Such engines don’t handle higher than normal temperatures well, and are very vulnerable to heat damage if the engine gets too hot.

If the thermostat needs to be replaced, install one with the same temperature rating as the original. Most cars and light trucks since 1971 require thermostats with *** 192 - or 195- degree *** ratings. Using a cooler thermostat (160 or 180) in an attempt to "cure" a tendency to overheat can increase fuel and oil consumption, ring wear and emissions... !

FINAL ANALYSIS & CONCLUSIONS:
I " HIGHLY " Recommend an upgraded Cooling systems for " ANY TOWING " with any Xterra ..!
1. 3 Core Radiator
2. Transmission Cooler

L.M.

do you know where they put the sensor for the water temp gauge or if they taped anything to fit it?

Hey,

I'm not 100 % sure , but this looks like where the Water Temp Sensor was installed !



Looks like it was Drilled and Tapped ,
Glued/Sealed into place with " J-B WELD "..!



Here's another photo of my Gauges in operation : 60 MPH : 25 Min Drive home ; Weather Reports 90+ degrees.


L.M.

thanks for the pic. that's the same spot i was lookin to mount mine

Check Lotek. They have the pillar pods

Hey ,

I did check into " LOTEK " , but they didn't offer a " THREE GAUGE PILLAR POD " for the Xterra..!

They do look cooool !!

L.M.

Thats correct. Just a 2 gauge. I have a boost gauge and oil pressure gauge in my fronty.

Hey,

Now you got me thinking ...... ! I'm hoping on getting a small , two person comfy (15'-20': under 5,000 pounds !) Travel Trailer, sometime in the near future . My original plan was to install “ Four Gauges : Water , Oil , Trans , Electrical “, but they wouldn’t all fit together .

I just might add on that " PILLAR MOUNTED GAUGE (s) "…….

#1. Electrical: Volts Meter
#2. Any Suggestions ???

FYI:
I had some Vehicle Warranty issue’s & decided the Gauges were a necessary upgrade, considering my Extended Warranty ( 100,000 miles ) will be running out soooon!:(See Problems & Annoyances: OIL PUMP FAILURE ).

L.M.

#2 would be an electric oil pressure gauge. You just get a duel sender to replace your factory single sender. That way you still have the idiot light backup.

Hey,

All (Oil / Water / Trans )of the current Gauges installed are " ELECTRICAL " ..

I had some past experience (15yrs ago ?) with a set of " Stuart Warner Mechanical Gauges " & didn't want a broken or Cracked line(Tubing) squirting " OIL or WATER ,etc ", all over the place, which did occure twice (Engine Compartment & inside/underneath interior Dash)same vehicle ..!

Just a wild thought ?? How about wiring a (detachable M/F plug) into the " Travel Trailer Batteries(?)" ..
# 2: Volt Meter/?

L.M.

that would be good if you have a charge line/isolator going from the alternator to the battery in the TT. Then you would also need a heavy duty alternator like a 180amp mean green. The good thing about this would be that you could run the refrigerator in the TT while going down the road, keeping things cold so that would be one less thing to do when you got to where you were going. If you already have the alternator, a camper dealer can install a charge line/isolator for about $100.00-$125.00.

Hey,

Thanks for the addtional info !!

I'll have to wait and get my " TT " before deciding on " WHAT UPGRADES TO DO NEXT " ??

L.M.