How does the frontier do it? Does it use a flatter springpack? Could the X use that springpack if it does? Don't really know what I'm talking about here -- just thinking out loud.

Probably a flatter spring pack, and the front spring hanger is tucked up higher and further to the rear on the curve of the frame rail instead of right at the bottom/beginning of the curve.

Brent

Well get on it... and let us know how it turns out.

Honestly, I prefer the spring under with these spring skids. A spring over leaves your axle fully exposed to bind up on rocks. With these and a good diff skid, you'll slide over them rather than potentially get hung up on the axle.

Quick lesson learned...

When you install the bolt that mounts the shock to the skidder... use loctite. Found out the hard way today.

No reason to use Loctite if it's torqued correctly.

I just looked at the picture again, and correct me if I'm wrong.

It looks like a bolt goes through the eye of the shock and threads into the skidder. If so, that's a horrible design. That bolt needs 50+ lb. ft. of torque in that hole, but only needs a few pound feet to compress the shock bushings.

It has to be a stud design to work.

Darlington can't possibly expect people to keep their shocks on their truck with Loctite.

Loctite is not a glue, and is not designed to simply glue a bolt in place, it has to be used with correct torque monitoring.

Bad, bad design.

Yep, that was something that came out in testing. The first set he sent me had a stud design (with a good nylon nut). This "second" set has a bolt design with course threads that threads into a nut that's welded into the UB Skidder.. and it worked it's way loose over the course of a few weeks.

Put it back in with some locktite and off I went.

The intent of switching was to reduce the amount of exposure. Those end threads are exposed a bit by a "post" type design, but switching the design around introduces more potential for harm than good.

I just came back from two days on the beach at OBX III and it has yet to work loose.

"Bad bad design..." I wouldn't go that far, because it's already been fixed. The production model will switch the design back the way it was previously.

BP, you are right. There's no way the U-bolts could come down straight without either removing the plates that go over the top of the axle or replacing them with some that are wider. The shape of the Skidderz plates moves the U-bolts out farther, but the top palte won't allow that. That's why they come down at an angle. I would think they would develop some proper top lates to fix this problem. I don't know what the effect of slanted U-Bolts may be.

U-bolt failure.

They better come up with a solution before selling them.

And Joe somehow thought this would work ?
Is it a real weld nut, or just some nut from Lowe's hardware that he welded on ?

I thought he was an engineer or something....

One more thing, anyone thinking of buying these should check out Darlington's Statement of Non-Liability.

They are for off road use only, and if they break, it will be the result of your own decision to use them. He disclaims all responsibility for failure.

Sounds like he really stands behind his products...

I'm not trying to kill them, I am just pointing out possible problems along with other people.

Joe doesn't state a warranty for his parts, other companies do, that's a problem.

Joe made a bad design error, he fixed it, but that makes me question the product.

Do I want some free ones ? No thanks.

And you really should put some real JPEG images up so people can see what you're trying to sell for Joe. The BMP file renamed as JPG is not visible to many browsers.

"Feel free to post any questions, concerns, bitches, gripes, complaints... etc."

You did ask for it though...

If you remove the top plate and move the U-Bolts apart at the top too, then you have even less lateral support for the spring pack, which means that tiny bolt down the middle of the pack is taking all the lateral load. And that bolt is hanging out the bottom where it can get sheared off. The plates should have lateral spring support all the way up to the axle and that center bolt should have protection. All they'd have to do is run the steel up different lengths for different applications or have fittings to go over the U-Bolts so they are not out away from the leaf packs.

I very much like the idea, but I see some possible failure points that would really concern me. At the very least, I would carry my old stock plates, U-Bolts, and a couple new leaf pack center bolts with me when offroading.

FWIW, the so-called "vertical" that BP drew isn't perpendicular to the axle tube. That doesn't mean the u-bolts aren't a little skewed, but not as far as the lines he drew would indicate.

Brent

Not sure what that thin-gauge little piece of steel that sit atop the axle is going to do for lateral load... or even how to apply a lateral load exclusively to the spring pack. I really don't see a need for it, especially when you use oversized u-bolts. The design of the UB Skidderz and the "walls" that cup the springs prevent shearing of that pinn under lateral load. The spring pack "pin bolt" can be inverted to prevent shearing too. I've meaning to do that next time I get a chance to pull these off again.

I need to resize the original jpeg's... No photoshop here yet. I did screen captures in MS paint to reduce them and saved them as .jpg. Not how MS paint works... it's still a .bmp apparently. I have to dedicate some time to do this.

And I'm not selling these for Joe... It's a product I wanted and helped bring to the community and am glad to own. I just figured there would be others who might want something like this too.

Compared to the stock design, I can't see where a "failure" is gonna occur. You'll break a whole lotta other stoff before these give way.

I guess you're right. :rolleyes:
I want make that an option next time.

You'll take your post and like it.

My concern about lateral load had nothing to do with the plate on top of the axle. I believe the main purpose of that plate is to help keep the U-Bolts from slipping apart, but I'm not sure.

What I was seeing is there is space between the leaves and the bolts on the larger spring packs and I believe part of the job of the U-Bolts is to hold the elaves in place. The center bolt just isn't stron enough to hold up if there is side load on the springs. And if you think there isn't any side load, you should see what I've done to the brackets that wrap around my spring packs.

Anyway, I think that the gap between the spring pack and the U-bolts should be filled either by steel plates or by pieces that fit over the U bolts above the Skidderz plate.

As far as putting the center bolt in upside down I don't see how the nut would fit into the hole in the axle. The nut is larger than the round head of the bolt and that barely fits, unless you can find a smaller nut that fits over the bolt AND has enough strength to stay on.

Ask XOC how much of a strength freak I am. I've pissed him off a few times over similar issues. Too many years around metal fabrication and construction will do that to an individual.

When some folks in PNWX get their Skidderz it is almost a guarranty that I will be participating in the installation (they give me all the rear suspension shit to do!), so I'll get a closer look and will be ebtter able to evaluate. Until then I shut my mouth and rest my case!

Good plan...
Let's let those who have ordered them comment after they've installed and tested them.

I know Schludwiller and I ordered them. And ChuckH will undoubtedly help me with mine! I am sure they will work and Chuck will pull his head out of his butt!!!

Never, ever will that happen. Sorry to disappoint!

Guess you'll need a 'rear breather tube' then! Thanks!, I'll be here all week folks!

I'm also interested to see how these work out. Might have to get myself a set.