Hi. I hope someone can help me out with this problem. I have a 2000 SE 4x4 with 30k miles on it. I brought it in to a local Econo Lube and Tune for 30k service and front brake job. They quoted me around $200-220 for the brake service which was $150 less than dealer's quote. It sounded expensive at first for a brake job but I found out that they use only dealer parts and pads alone are around $100, plus it's about 2 hour labor since its a 4x4 so i said why not. The guy at the shop calls me back at around noon and he informs me that I will also need to replace the rotors which are $135 a piece and he told me that because the factory pads are so hard, they wear out the rotors faster. And he also informed me that its just routine to have them replaced with the pads as factory recommends. I called Nissan dealership near where I live, whom I had gotten an estimate earlier and they told me that its not necessary and all I probably need is to turn the rotors. Sh!t. Are these F-ing monkeys trying to F- Me at Econo lube and tune. I have never heard of such bullshit before. I don't see how any rotor could wear out that fast. I autocross in my other car @ willow springs and Laguna Seca with stock brakes and they never wear out this fast. What the hell?? I don't know who to believe. I told the guys to leave my brakes alone and just do the 30k service. I know I need to replace the front pads so I do need to take care of this fast but, I want to know for sure before I plunk down my hard earned cash for rotors I may or may not need. PLEASE....if someone recently had their brakes done, please let me know how much you paid and if it was similar. I'm about to just get off my ass and do it my self but I don't know how to repack the bearings or check the rotor for proper thickness. Maybe I should just go to the dealer and pay $350 for the brake job....
Help.

Thomas

If you're on a budget, just by the pads from Xterraparts.com or the dealer and throw them in yourself. Personaly, I would just ignore the condition of the disks at such a low mileage.

If you're not on a budget, go to the dealer and let them have at it.

It's Econolube's mission to rip you off - I'm not sure what you expected.

You can get the rotors re-surfaced if you are that concerned. Most parts stores will do it for you fairly cheap. Unless they are warped I don't think they should be replaced with the pads. I have actually never heard of that before.

$100 for pads? What are they kevlar? Shouldn't need to replace/turn you rotors at 30K unless your brakes pulsate when you stop.
I alway do my own brake jobs and front pads are the easiest, so I dont know what a shop charges. I just know I've never spent over $50.

[ 10-02-2001: Message edited by: seamonkey ]

xterra brake pads are 59.95 at napa

Xterraparts sells nissan pads for $64.95.

$350 for front pads, WTF! I would call around to other dealers for that price. Mine quoted me $249 for front pads. I think you are getting completely ripped off from Econo lube, your rotors do not need to be replaced unless they are warped or broken. If they need to be, they can be spun at an Checker or PepBoys for like $8 a rotor. I would say do it yourself if possible, unless you have the cash, then go to a dealer. But shop the dealer first.

Another shining example of why not to use Econo Lube, or any of those convenience type brake and service places. They just try to take advantage of people who don't know much about their vehicle.

[ 10-02-2001: Message edited by: sundevil845 ]

yea, yer gettin raped dude...if yer rotors truly need replacing right now you got some serious problems elsewhere...the Advance auto store here charges like 6 bucks to turn a rotor...I'd do the pads my self and carry the rotors in to be checked..I'd be surprised if they even need turning, unless you drive like Mario, or the pads wore out weeks ago.

Tell 'em you wanna see yer rotors, look fer grooves in em...if they say they're warped make em show ya a micrometer reading.

>>The guy at the shop calls me back at around noon and he informs me that I will also need to replace the rotors which are $135 a piece and he told me that because the factory pads are so hard, they wear out the rotors faster.

that sounds like a crock of poo to me.

Thanks for all the responses. I got off my ass and took the wheels off and you are all right. The rotors look like they don't even need to be re surfaced. I'm going to buy the pads my self and put them in. Thanks again for all your replys....it's just nice to know you guys agree with how I thought.
Thomas

Do they change your brakes when you get the 15k mile tune-up from the dealer?

Some cars do have hard pads that wear the rotors nearly as quickly as the pads. My Audi comes to mind here, but it still didn't cost $500 for the job (around $350 with rotors, I think). I don't see any noticeable rotor wear on my Xterra after 42K miles. If they are worn they will have a lip around the edge where the pads don't touch. I plan to just throw some new pads on here soon whether it needs them or not. I want to do the bearings so i figure I may as well do the pads at the same time.

easy to do yourself, and you will need the rear bearing seals too. go to the parts guy at your local Nissan dealer and ask him for all the parts you need to do a front brake service with rotor turning. It's an easy job, but will require some patience, and planning if it's your only vehicle.

C clamp
grease
bearing packer
breaker bar
zip ties
towels

and assorted wrenches is about all I needed.

it took me a while, but that's because I tried to unbolt the rotor from the hub body, DON'T unbolt it from the hub body! they need it attached to the hub to turn the rotors.

You may not even need to turn them. Many haven;t. at 56,000 miles, I felt I should.

Matt

[ 10-09-2001: Message edited by: Matt Peckham ]

Matt,

You forgot snap ring pliers. You can do it without them, but the real thing makes it much easier. If you don't get the combination style, make sure you get the "external" type.

Brent

How tight should the outer bearing locknut be after you put everything back together? I noticed that once the hub is removed, and you're down to just the bearing retaining washer (shown below), it doesn't look like too much extra work to pull off the rotor.



I'll need to resurface or replace my rotors within the next month, and I want to repack the bearings while everything's torn apart.

Why must the rear bearing seals be replaced? Do they get damaged during removal of the rotor/hub?

Oh yeah, what type of grease is recommended for the bearing repack?

[ 10-09-2001: Message edited by: XPLORx4 ]

To remove the inside bearings, you have to remove the rear seals, but they get damaged in the process and must be replaced.

Use high-temp disc brake wheel bearing grease, found at any auto parts store.

For 4WD, the ESM is rather confusing about the wheel bearing locknut torque. There is a special socket tool with pins to engage the holes, though a screwdriver at a low angle does the trick. I just guesstimated the torque when I reassembled, a gentle yet snug fit. The actual specs are described in the ESM as follows:
Tightening torque: 25 - 29 ft-lb
Retightening torque after loosening wheel bearing lock nut: 0.4 - 1.1 ft-lb
The also measure wheel bearing pre-load using "starting force at wheel hub bolt" and such. I know what that means but the way they use it doesn't make sense. They list one measurement of this as "A" and another as "B" and then subtract A from B and you should get 1.59 - 1.72 ft-lb. I have no idea when or how "A" and "B" measurements are taken such that they represent different conditions.

At least the first 2 answers were useful eh?

Brent

Does the outer bearing just kind of pull out after you've removed the retaining nut? And then, after you've swung the brake caliper assembly out of the way, does the whole rotor/hub slide right off the rear bearing? Or do you kind of have to strong-arm it off? Thanks.

Yep, and no strong-arming necessary.

Brent

[ 10-10-2001: Message edited by: OffroadX ]

Hi All,

New to the site...sounds like a great place for any and all the info I'll ever need. Glad to have found you all.

I'm swapping out the front rotors on my 2WD 2000 X. Is the procedure any different than what is already described? I want to get everything ready before I pull the tire and find out I need to go get more parts...and have to put it all back together again just to go to the store.

I've got 70k miles already and I tow heavy loads from time to time. I get brake fade and sometimes I don't fall into 2nd gear soon eneough. The last time my brakes got too hot and I couldn't stop and I was going to fast for the tranny to let me down shift to 2nd. The bottom of the hill came soon enough and all was OK...but I was sure scared.

Any info would be appreciated...thanks

Appears to be the same, but of course you won't have to deal with the locking hubs. You won't need the snap ring pliers either.

Brent