If you are referring to the RPM switch (15879NOS) that NOS offers, it doesn't work with our ignition system.

I was simply thinking about it, but listening to everybody and their logic made me change my mind. I figured I might as well try to make the X as efficient as I can, and probably apply some of those "pay for my gas bitch" techniques to my friends.

Anyway, on to the NOS. infinatenexus you say that I'll have to pull back my timing? Explain how I'd pull that off? (piggyback ECU?)

Allready running premium...

You also say that I can't spray below 3,000 RPM because the air won't be at a high enough velocity? I understand how that would apply to a NA engine, but my engine is S/C, so I'm simply guessing that the same wouldn't apply.

Colder spark plugs? What?

Anyway, thanks for the information!

Why not just start with a smaller pully for your sc and see if you like the extra boost? You really won't have to worry about timming and being above a certain rpm

ya, I'm going to start with a S/C pulley, then go from their. Think the engine can take the pulley and a 75 shot of NOS?

Correct actully, the DETT. Sorry 'bout that.

There is a DET kit, to go to single massive turbo.

someone in my town, has a white xterra(all plastic painted white to match), i think its a 2001, and anyways, hes running a 50 shot of nitrous...and hes had it for a few years now(i think). i dont know how well its worked out for him.

i think its just a waste of money, and why would you use it on an xterra? save that crap for cars.

My truck is paid for so I guess I can risk a shot of nitrous every once in a while. It won't be any good trying to cruise up a hill but it will sure help on a highway entrance ramp.

I see the NOS-5130 sells for $600. Anyone know where online they are cheaper?

I'd like to try installing it myself. Is there a plate that installs on the intake or does it require drilling and tapping some holes for nozzles? The former is a simple afternoon job, the latter would require pulling the intake and could take a while.

most importantly, does anybody know if the VG33 S/C engine could take the 9-11 PSI, AND shot of NOS?

That kit looks pretty nice (look at the size of the damn turbine!).

Going off the topic a little...
However in my opinion a bi-turbo system would be more effective. You have a smaller turbine that spins up to speed faster at low RPM and then you have the big one kick in once you are up to speed. That somewhat reduces the turbo lag, as opposed to when you just have a one massive turbine installed.
I understand the engine is obviously tuned (prior the DET conversion) but I still would expect a pretty decent lag before the turbine kicks in. What do you thinkg, Cyclemut, wouldn't a bi-turbo be a little more effective in this case?

It would be, but the problem with the dual turbo setup is that the smaller turbine will end spending most of it's life at full rpm. While it doesn't sound bad, since it's fully lubricated and such, the heat that it generates for itself will take it's toll on the smaller unit, and will end up causing the small snail to be replaced incredibly soon (or rebuilt). Nice for a race car, that gets rebuilt every so often anyway. Not for the daily driver.

Running two of the same size turbos will get the life span back up. But you still have the nominal lag associated with a turbo. You just have two turbos now.

One big spinner will give you lag, but if it's a ball bearing unit, with all the trimmings, then the lag would be back down to what the two smaller ones would be. Then you could have the massive compression of the bigger unit, reliability of one turbo and still get huge gains.

I'd go twin with two banks (V6) but single with the inline of the RB series.

I'd run 2 big turbos, and force a 100% increase in the high rpm range... That'd be fun...

Anyway, Cyclemut, youre a Nissan Technician. How much pressure can the VG33 engine take before we run into problems? We know that you can run 9-11 psi on it with no problems. And we know that you can shoot the N/A engine with a 75 shot with no problems. But think we can add the two together? Or you think the engine will give out? I wanna see how "bullet proof" this engine really is...

well? anybody got any answer to my question?

Sorry dude, I was ice racing yesterday, then went to dinner with the girl.

I'm not sure how much it'd take without taking a dump.

I'd say with the internals of the S/C, that it may take a 50, but I don't want to install an engine in my truck. Perhaps a 75, if it took it, then I'd definately stay there.

100 shot on the N/A might be pushing the envelope, but it might take it a while to actually show the excess harshness.

I don't really know that many specifics regarding engines, but if there's anybody out there that can enlightin me on my question, that'd be great.

What engine components would be the first to give out with 9-11 PSI & NOS on the engine?

I'm thinking that if they're some simple parts that maybe I could beef the specific components so that the engine could take more. Once again, I don't fully understand how the specifics of an engine works, so spare me the flaming of calling me a retard, and if you could answer the question then please do.
Thanks alot Cyclemut!

Well if you go lean you will burn a hole right through the top of your piston. Barring that, a whole slew of things can go. The thing you have to keep in mind is the cylinder pressure goes up as the amount of boost/nitrous increases. If you're lucky, you will blow a head gasket. You could probably blast the top rings, shatter a piston, throw a rod, or blow a hole in a cylinder. I doubt you could stuff enough air into the 3.3 to blow the crankshaft out the oil pan. So essentially the weak points would be just about everything below the heads. Of course, there isn't a guarantee of anything above the block either.

The key here is moderation. Remember Grasshopper... the louder the bang, the more expensive the fix.

That is an awesome quote. I am going to have to remember that one!!!

The only motor my friend has used nitrous on was his well built mustang. He was able to use a 150hp shot, prbably because it had TRW forged pistons, and forged crank and A TON of extra fuel to burn when the nitrous was used (secondary fuel pump on a switch).
Damn was it scary when that was used.
Nothing like spinning out at 55 mph because the car broke traction when the nitrous kicked in.

I've raced a couple of cars with nitrous and it works really well on a nicely built engine. The cars I raced were mainly late model camaros and mustangs. Those were the only cars that would pull up next to my Grand National wanting to race.

I think Nitrous on an X is kinda silly, since I've rarley, if ever gone full throttle while offroad.
If you are going full throttle, time for some transfer case gears (or skids ).

okay, seems like NOS for me is a lost cause... I definately don't want to blow the engine, and nobody seems like they've tested the strength of the engine. Toyota tests they're engines... Wish Nissan would do the same...

You could always test it and let us know

I'm glad you liked it.

TPS= throttle positioning switch. It goes on the throttle body.

That makes sense ButterBean, cause you know I'm a multi-national multi-billion corporation that just simply has a bunch of test Xterra's. I wish I could....

The primary reason to run Nitrous in conjunction with a turbo is to allow a smaller motor spool a large turbo at a lower RPM, or to cool the intake charge to prevent detonation. I have used a 35 dry shot on Hondas for years in order to bring the inlet temperatures down.

When did anyone say they were using it off road?

lol, from what I understand it's illegal to use NOS on the street. But than again, that's what I plan to do. Now I can't wait for all the losers to flame me!!! Hey! listen to me! I'm gonna put NOS on my Xterra, and run 9's on a quarter mile!!! That piss you off Xterra owners???

No, that won't piss anybody off. That will make us laugh. Dumbass. An Xterra isn't going to be a 9 second car in a quarter mile, with or without nitrous. Lets say you get a 100 shot in there. That puts you, still, at under 300 hp to the rear wheels. You think 300 hp in a 4,000 lb rig is going to get you into the 9s? Maybe into the 11s...