Got a link, there's some other things I want to coat

You can get the stuff at just about any hardware / auto parts store.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product?storeId=10101&Pr=p_Product.CATENTRY_ID%3A2000733&TID=8014524&productId=2000733&catalogId=10101

thanks Muzikman!

The sliders will do perfectly fine as jack points.

As to the question of other Hi Lift jack points (other than the sliders)... the only one I can think of is the trailer hitch. This doesn't work very well, though, because of the angle of the jack.

I jack the Shrock Sliders all the time, I rotate my tires, etc...I have YET to see a scratch in the powder coat from the jack..its just not that much of an issue.

Its a little like getting clevis shackles for the bumper. and fussing about how to keep them from rattling or banging as the truck lurches along...etc, and making cut off hose sections to slide over the pins, etc....when the shackles don't rattle or bang the way they are w/o the fuss.

Its a solution w/o a problem.

I lifted the entire back end of my truck using the Hi-Lift with the lift tongue through the loop on my hitch shackle. Makes a nice lifting point (assuming you chock the front wheels, of course).

How does lifting a 4,500 pound vehicle from the hitch not exceed the 750 pound vertical tongue load restriction on a class 3 hitch?

Well, the weight split on the Xterra is probably about 60% in the front, 40% in the rear. Given the weight is probably about 4,100lb. at best, I was probably only lifting maybe 1600lb. Still over the tongue weight limit of the hitch, for sure.

OTOH, I also quickly put jackstands under the axle and those were doing some of the work, too.

If you think about the design of the tubular hitch, how it curves down to the middle, lifting the truck with it probably stands less chance of bending something anyway.

Now, crawling under the truck while it is lifted like that - no way.

Noticed another clarification that's needed...

...the 750 tongue weight and 5 K lb tow weight limits for a Class III hitch are ALSO related to the wheelbase of the truck, and control issues...such as being able to maintain control while driving through a cross wind, high crowns, over bumps, etc...and not the structural strength alone.



IE: The hitch itself is not always the weak link in the chain, and the Class weight limits can be imposed to account for other factors.

Remember, that weight distribution is at the WHEELS. The hitch is atleast another 2' from the rear tire contact, giving a geater leverage effect pivoting from the front tires. I would guess the weight is only 1000 - 1200 at the hitch.

This should be perfectly safe. The safety factor of the tongue weight is atleast 5 (2500 lbs shouldn't break it off).

Aha! This makes perfect sense. So 2,500 pounds (vertically) is what you estimate it would break at? That's a relief.

Downward force is the least strong orientation...there's just 2 bolts per side in that direction thru thin sheet metal that is not boxed on the last foot or so...even with the frame reinforcement inserts you can get...it still just braces it against pulling out to the rear, and not really against down forces.

Pushing the tow hitch upwards drives the hitch against its mounts, and up against the bottom of the rear bumper, bracing it more.

Hi-lifting from the hitch should be fine in a pinch...the left to right balance of the truck would be the bogey.

Good points, all. As mentioned, I've only jacked the back of the truck with the hi-lift once, and that was only for about 30 minutes to swap out my rear shackles.

I definitely did not dare crawl under the truck to work (you can do the shackles from behind the bumper). Also, I'm always leary of a jacked vehicle moving in any direction, so I was sure that the front wheels were chocked front and rear.

This was on my level driveway, too. I agree with TJ - if I were out on the trial on an uneven (and worse yet - loose) surface, this probably wouldn't be an option unless it meant the difference between something positive and something very negative.

Very good to know, thanks TJ. I have another somewhat related question, which is starting to get off topic...
I've read several times that you can use the hi-lift to get out of a stuck situation by jacking the vehicle up and driving it off the jack. How does this work without damaging anything? thanks!

It works w/o damaging anything if you make sure that the standard (The long metal bar with the slots in it) and the handle (The long hollow pipe) are not going to swing into the side of the truck or a person, etc...when the truck moves.

Essentially...lets say your undercarriage is hung up on a hump...and you can jack the X up enough to get the underbelly off the hump...but, once up, you don't have a way to drive off unless you leave the jack in place...so you do.



The best solution is to place stuff under the tires once the X is up to make it clear the hump, lower back down, take out the jack, and THEN go...but sometimes, there's nothing available.

So...you jack it up...picking a point that you know will be pivoted from.

Once clear of the hump, wrap a blanket/towel, etc on the standard, remove the handle, get everyone clear, and drive off the jack...

You will swing forward on the jack, pivoting from the jack point...kind of like a slow weak short pole vaulter would do....clearing the hump, and setting you free.

You then go back and get the jack, make sure its OK, and continue on your merry way.

Ah, thanks TJ that makes perfect sense. I'll keep this in mind when I finally get my sliders. As far as wrapping the standard in something, is that for the same reason as putting a jacket or blanket on a winch cable when winching? So if it breaks it doesn't kill someone? Thanks again!

No, it's so as you drive off the jack, the standard doesn't hit against the side if your door and put a nice scratch / dent in it. It has nothing to do with people safety.