hey guys...do they make wheel spacers for the X?? thanks

Yes they are 6 on 5.5" for the spacers. Many toyotas and chevys have the same pattern.

All the adapters you can imagine.
adapters

Spacers, or adapters?

Most of the time, there's too little BS, and the tires rub, especially under compression.

If you add spacers, it pushes the tires even further outboard, making the problem even worse, not helping.

Adapters let you use mismatched bolt patterns, (Hub to Rim) and might add their thickness when mounted, also worsening the problem...but an adapter per se typically adds less than a 1/4", whereas most spacers add an inch or 2, etc.

oh ok cool thanks for the info. i was just trying to get a little bulge out of the tires

Typically, for what a GOOD quality pair of spacers cost per pair (and you'd need 2 pair), you can get a set of steel wheels with lower backspacing to "bulge" out your tires a little more past the fenders..assuming that's what you're going for. There's no need for spacers if wheels will do the same thing.

Definately for a Gen 1 you can get nice stealies with less B.S. for 40 each. Gen 1's are alot nicer in that respect.Gen2's will require the adapters and more expensive steel wheels(size and B.S. dictate here.)

True, but the aftermarket on steelies will catch up for you guys...eventually

This is my next purchase as soon as it is out. I am dying for some black steelies that will bring the tires out a little and that I don't mind scratching up...

Dave, I see you're over here as much as I am now with VAXC being down, heheh...took me a while to figure out that was you!

Okay, one more question...I was under the impression that spacers/adapters are not good, especially if you wheel.

Is this even true? And if so, is it because of concerns about the spacers/adapters themselves being strong enough, or is it out of concerns for the effects on the drivetrain that result from pushing the wheels out? It doesn't seem like the latter because plenty of 1st gen peeps run wheels that stick out a lot.

I'm considering just going ahead and getting adapters with 1" spacing in order to get some Cragars on my '05.

I think the biggest concern is the create additional leverage on the stock lugs. However I've never had or seen a set fail other than due to owner error or misuse. They will fail if they become loose and start moving even the slightest. Mine are torqued to factory specs with loctite and I used quality nuts on them. I also check them routinely especially after one of my many cross country trips lately. As long as they are made from 6061 billet alum. and have or get put in quality studs and nuts you shouldn't have any problems. I've stated here before but I'll say again most expensive european wheels use adapters and my Bimmer with RH Alurad wheels was one and the adapters were TUV aproved and they weren't anywhere near as beefy as the one s on my truck.

added: Get the sheetmetal cutter out cause you will have to trime the fender. Do not cut any plastic on the wheel well skirt. Just push it out of the way and trim the metal, leaving the original tabs in place then notch each side and fold it back even with the trimmed portion. Then all you have to do is drill a small hole to screw the skirt back in place. On the lower portion of the skirt where it attaches to the rocker panel just make a new hole in theplastic and screw it back in the original mounting hole.That will tuck it up nicely and will look factory and keep it from hitting the tire. I screwed my first side up and cut that portion off and now I can't get it to stop rubbing under compression. I'll get some pics if you need more info.

Well I'm only running 265/75R16...so I'm not sure how much trimming I'll have to do. Thanks for the answers, I think I will be ordering the same adapters and wheels you are running, I know you had to grind the studs a little but that's not a big deal.

Its a compromise between stability and articulation.

If you make the tires stick out (Illegal in states such as NJ for example...) it gives a wide stable stance...

If you want to preserve up travel/articulation, you need the tires to be able to make it up into the wheel wells.

The rears are even trickier...as what will stuff on straight compression can rub on opposite droop compression.

So my 5.25" BS rims let me stuff the rear's easily despite my big 'ol 305/70/16's (A bit wider tread, and a bit taller diameter, than a 33x12.5/15)...

But, on opposite side droop, the stuffed tire rubs the INSIDE of the well, against the frame, when the other tire is fully dropped down.

So - If I have enough BS to be able to stuff both together (A landing for example...), I'll rub on opposite day...

If I space them out a bit, I can do the opposite droop better, but, I'll rub on normal compression, etc.

For the fronts, less BS = Rub, no matter what.