I think the biggest concern is the create additional leverage on the stock lugs. However I've never had or seen a set fail other than due to owner error or misuse. They will fail if they become loose and start moving even the slightest. Mine are torqued to factory specs with loctite and I used quality nuts on them. I also check them routinely especially after one of my many cross country trips lately. As long as they are made from 6061 billet alum. and have or get put in quality studs and nuts you shouldn't have any problems. I've stated here before but I'll say again most expensive european wheels use adapters and my Bimmer with RH Alurad wheels was one and the adapters were TUV aproved and they weren't anywhere near as beefy as the one s on my truck.

added: Get the sheetmetal cutter out cause you will have to trime the fender. Do not cut any plastic on the wheel well skirt. Just push it out of the way and trim the metal, leaving the original tabs in place then notch each side and fold it back even with the trimmed portion. Then all you have to do is drill a small hole to screw the skirt back in place. On the lower portion of the skirt where it attaches to the rocker panel just make a new hole in theplastic and screw it back in the original mounting hole.That will tuck it up nicely and will look factory and keep it from hitting the tire. I screwed my first side up and cut that portion off and now I can't get it to stop rubbing under compression. I'll get some pics if you need more info.