so i'd like to add a light (or two) to the ceiling of the cargo area to illuminate in the following situations:
1. rear hatch is opened (is this possible?)
2. switch is flipped.

i'd also like to add additional reverse lights (nothing too powerful, keeping it legal) to illuminate in the following situations (using a switch):
1. Off
2. On with reverse lights

what are the basics that i will need to know about before i start on this (relays, switches, etc)? i'm a newbie at this modding gig, so any and all (good) advise is greatly appreciated.

thanks,
DM

Check this link out and tell me if it's what you were inquiring about:

Benny\'s Xterra Rear Dome Mod

This is something I'm considering... I, too, am interested in a bit more illumination
from the back of the X... I'll probably "borrow" Benny's idea on the lighting...

Here's another link from Benny... This one is for additional backup lights...

Benny\'s Xterra Backup Lighting Mod

PEACE!!!

- Air B

those sites are where i got the ideas from. i'm going to mod the cargo lights so i don't need the lobo rack.

as this is my first walk in the woods of auto mods, i'd like to have as much direction (illustrations, etc) as possible. i don't want to fry my baby (i've only had it for 2 weeks)...

My bad, DM... Here... Try this one out...

Coolerman Kits

Look at #2... See if that fits your fancy...

- Air B

in hindsight (no pun intended), i would rather go the following way for the backup lights: on when in reverse, off all other times. this would alleviate the need for a switch, correct?

as for the cargo lights, i'd like to have it activate either manually, automatically with lifting of the gate, or have it off altogether.

-d

Just another version.. simple install really
here

it looks like you're doing the same thing i want, on when in reverse, off all other times...did this work well for you? all the other installs i've seen have a bazillion fuses/relays/switches, etc. this looks relatively simple compared to the others. sorry for the seemingly stupid questions, but i don't want to fry my X, or myself...

I did install a switch, just for the option of keeping the lights off 100%, otherwise they only work with the reverse lights,, its one of the little idiot laws here, and happy with the set up.
If I want the lights on for unpacking etc, I just leave it in reverse (manual tranny) and shut the engine off, key in acc. position.
Its a simple install, if you don't want any switch, all the wiring is in the back in one location.

ok, here's the setup i've come up with. the reverse lights will illuminate when A) my headlights, and thus taillights, are on, and B) i'm in reverse. i don't need these things to light during the day, just at night... if there are any flaws, please let me know. power is from the aux line, with an inline fuse.

It looks fine as long as you keep the contact and coil connections on the relays straight. Your setup avoids exceeding the maximun current rating of the reverse light switch.
Some people have simply put the new lights in parallel with the existing reverse lights, which is almost guaranteed to shorten the life of the reverse light switch.

ok, so i rigged up a couple of possibilities, depending on how you'd like to get the new backup lights to work (it'd be a good idea to throw a 15A fuse at the 12VDC source...I use the power outlet in the cargo area):

I'll defer to the experts on this one but I'm pretty sure you don't want to run the lighting current directly through the switchs you show in the last two, unless the switches are rated for the current your aux lights are going to draw.

almost all *automotive* switches are 12VDC/20+ amps capable...

Actually, very few of the original switches in the Xterra can handle 20 amps. That's why there are so many relays in the X. A 20 amp switch gets pretty big.

Another thing to watch out for is the inrush current of incandescent lamps. The inrush can fry a switch or relay that isn't rated for it. A good rule of thumb for incandescents is that the inrush current is 10 times the operating current.

sorry..i should have clarified that most aftermarket switches can handle heavy current load. it's relatively easy to find a switch that can handle 40A. what's the typical current draw from a set (2) of 55W bulbs?

just do the math (2 X 55 W)/12V = 9.2 A
which is the continuous current

A 30 amp relay will work fine, but don't go smaller.
Those aftermarket switches you find at the autoparts store are unlikely to be of the quality you will find installed as OEM.

Just to throw a couple cents in...

Are you planning on using those while driving? If not then don't worry about going "overboard". If you are driving - then forget about interior lights - they're illegal. Well maybe the map light for a couple seconds...

actually, i scrapped the cargo area light idea when i realized there's already one there

as for the relays/switches, i was looking at 12V/40A relays and switches that could handle at least 30A. Does anyone know what those "factory looking switches" that BP is offering in his thread are rated? I don't seem to recall any specs on them in the thread...

Edit: Looking back on a post in this thread, it was recommended that switched be able to handle 10x the operating current of the device. So I'd have to find a switch capable of handling 92+A (probably a 100A switch)...is this really necessary? if so, where are such switches found?

You don't need a 100 amp switch, only a switch specifically designed to handle the inrush of incandescent bulbs. Sometimes the manufacturer's data sheet can be hard to find.
In the data sheets for many of the "Bosch" type 40A relays you'll see that most are designed to handle the inrush.

Thanks for the info. I figured that most relays would be OK, and that I'd just have to double check the specs.

As for switches, are there any known brands that are great, or ones that I should avoid?