Hi everyone, I have a product related question.

I will be installing 2 or 4 driving lights to my roof rack in addition to my existing lights, all with their own wires and relays. All these power wires must run to the battery along with my stereo power cable. This is going to be a lot of cables. Is there a product out there that will allow you to connect all the cables to a distribution block which in turn has 1 cable going to the battery? I have a distribution block in my rear, D'OH, hatch area for my stereo, but it is in no way weather proof or resistant to the elements.

Wanted to ring in.....I'd like to have a detailed answer too. I'm not an exectrician but I'm running out of threads on the (+) bolt. I've heard quick answers of run it through the relays or an accessory relay...but I guess I need a more spelled out answer (pics?!?!?) since that is still "Greek" to me

Take a look at Warmonger's site. I do not know the URL, but on his first (I think fog light) install, he installed a set of relays for each future expected set of lights. The parts came from JC Whitney, and seem to be straight-forward to install.

I work at a NAPA parts distribution warehouse so most of what I use comes from them.
I got a fuse block (balkamp part number 782-5316) it has a single post rated 80 amps that goes to 6 blade type connectors, each rated 20 amps with their own ATO fuse slots.
If I had a digital camera I'd give you a picture but...

My setup will be a 4 gauge wire running from postitve battery terminal, through a MIDI fuse holder (pn 782-1143) with an 80 amp fuse (pn 782-1145). Then through an ignition triggered 100 amp relay, then to the fuse box which will be located on the driver side firewall.

Unfortuneately I can't find the 100 amp relay anywhere so all the parts are in the garage waiting to be put on. All the wires are measured and the terminals are soldered on so as soon as I get a relay it will just be a matter of screwing things to the firewall.
I'll take pictures when I do it for future reference.

Radio Shack sells a fuse block that fits the bill. It's call a dual fuse block, cat #27-704.

radioshack.com

It has a single connection to the battery, and splits the power to two fused points. Car stero shops also sell fuse blocks with more that two power terminations, I've seen as many as four.

I used the same dual block in our truck. I ran #4 from the battery to underneath the passengar seat where I installed the block. One 40 amp fuse protects the lights, another 20 amp fuse protects the inverter. As an extra precaution I placed a 100 amp inline fuse on the #4 just off of the battery. If the DC power to the passengar compartment gets damaged insulation I would rather blow a fuse that's easy to reach than seriously drain the battery or cause a fire.

[ 09-01-2001: Message edited by: Accasbel ]

War's site: http://personal.mco.bellsouth.net/~warmongr