My 2000 X 4WD has just reach over 90k miles, I changed the ATF & Filter, Rotated the Tires but then noticed a few other things I may have to do.

1) Shocks are getting mushy and Rear Passenger shock seems to leak.

2) Timing Belt Kit recommended to be replaced at 105k

3) 2nd set of Tires are have been driven over 45k and will probably need to be replaced unless I milk it over the winter.

What should I do first out of the 3? and if so any recommendations and where to get the parts and what type (shocks - KYB, Bilstein, Tokico, Rancho), Timing Belt kit (do it yourself, or better take it to the dealer)

I'm kinda at a quandry right now.

Thanks!

RocXterra

Go with the mtc schedule on your owner's manual. I believe you also have to change LSD, differential oil, and repack the bearing grease.

Jim

The only thing that will cost more if its not fixed/serviced is the timing belt. It can wait till just before 105K but don't go much past. You're looking at several 100 dollars of work so be prepared.

Theres lots of info on this site as to what to replace along with the belt. The logic is since the mechanic is already there, spend the extra $ on the part, labor is negligible. All belts, hoses, T stat, seals and water pump. Can you do this kind of work yourself? If not be sure to check several places for price, it usually varies greatly.

Shocks are cheap and you can do that yourself. Weak shocks wont toast your engine though. Just be sure you can afford the timing belt when its due.

I'm not real familiar with this 3.3 engine yet, but most engines bend valves when the timing belt breaks. So, you don't want to wait for it to break before changing it. Also, BurgPath is correct, change anything that would require the timing belt removal for replacement. Meaning, if the belt needs to come off to replace the water pump, then change the pump when you change the belt. Especially if the belt turns the pump. No use paying the belt replacement labor multiple times. I've changed timing belts, chains and gears on lots of different engines. Sometimes it can be a bear, sometimes easy. Typically you need some special tools. Or at least a good set of tools and an impact wrench is always a plus.

Anyone care to move this to the Backyard Mechanic or Warranty/Service/Repair section?

Anyway, along with the timing belt, (as mentioned) have the water pump, coolant hoses, and all belts changed, but add to that list the timing belt tensioner (if it's not part of the kit), front camshaft seals (no, the cams do not need to be removed to do it) and if you're really ambitious, the front crank seal.
The timing belt job isn't fun, and if not done right, it can cause all kinds of headaches or ruin the engine. It's not your typical do-it-yourself job, but a few have tackled it successfully. There are posts about how to do it to be found here.

Shock options have been extensively discussed in the suspension section. Bilsteins seem to get the best feedback.

Brent

Everybody seems to be right, tires and shocks can be replaced after or just before they fail. The timing belt gives no warning prior to failing and it will damage the engine terribly if it does so. I had my timing belt changed at 115k (nissan recommends 105k)and also had the drive belts, water pump and tensioner pulley replaced. I called all the dealers in Houston (about 10 or so) and got a range from around $700 to over $1000 for the exact same job. I ended up using a local shop that was highly recommended to me by several people and they did it all for just over $500. Just drove it to Florida and put it over 120k on it and it runs like a new one. If your planning on keeping it indefinately like me, change all of the listed parts and it should run another 100k with no problems. I also use Castrol full synthetic motor oil and rear diff fluid. Will change to synthetic trans fluid next change in another 5k miles. Good luck!

Thanks all for the info!

I think I'll go with either Bilstein OEm or Tokico Trekmaster RT Kit first since it's causing my tires to wear unevenly right now.

I'll try to tackle the Timing Belt myself soon too since I have another 15k miles left- I'll try to research more on all the necessary tools needed and have a buddy of mine come help since he used to be a saab/volvo mechanic so that should help.

I may be wrong but I don't think worn shocks will cause uneven tire wear. So you may have something else that needs work.

I'd replace the tires first, though, so that you make it through a snowy Rochester winter alive.

If the shocks are really shot, you can actually get a tire that will not settle from a bump and continues to "hop" down the road. This will cause cupping and other wear problems. Coil suspensions are more prone to it, in particular I've seen full-size vans with a tire hopping on a smooth stretch of highway.