After undergoing the installation in my own garage (with temps ranging from 5 - 28 degrees!) the lift is finally done. I intend to share as much as possible as a compliment to the Calmini instructions. Please feel free to add or comment to this thread as it pertains to the CALMINI lift so that others can learn from the different installation tips.

The kit recommends a mechanic to install the kit. I am not a mechanic however this is not my first lift kit installation - with some over the phone assistance from Calmini (yes, they do have good customer service if you are courteous and respectful). It took me over 2 weeks due to the low temps and no heater in the garage, overall about 25 hours. Being that it was my first install, a repeat would probably range from 8 - 12 hours with the proper tools, temps, and help.

The kit at times requires 2 people, however there is plenty for a 1 man band to putt along with.

The following tips are based from trial and error. Some people may not need the tips as they may already know the ins-outs of working with a wrench.

General note: PB Blaster is your friend. Use it, use it some more, and continue to use it.

REAR INSTALLATION.

1. Yes, jack it up and use jackstands just in front of the spring perches. Remove tires and rest the axle on another set of jacks. Unbolt the U-bolts.

2. Unhook the driver's side ABS (electrical) line from the different clamps. The brake lines connected to the axle can also be disconnected (via bolt) from the axle.

3. Remove shocks, they will cause the axle to rotate during the install, not good and a pain to fight.

4. With axle floating, remove the stock leaf springs... it is a lot easier to get the rear bolts off the shackles by completely removing both side plastic bumpers. Easy job, only 3 minutes per side. Reinstall when done. Remove the front spring bolt. These guys are heavy, get some help to move them around.

5. Reinstall the leaf springs... trick here is to use a good lube before you smack the bushings into the leaf spring holes. Then with some help, lift them into place, I preferred doing the fronts first then the rears. During this time, the axle is out of the way by being up high on the jacks.

6. The leafs are directional, as in the centerpins are biased toward the front. If you measure from the perch to the shackle holes, then perpendicular to the bump stops you will find that the axle sits toward the front, approximately 2". Note that the centerpins are towards the front, so install the leafs in the correct direction. Also, you will be drilling out the holes on the axle, this will help you determine which holes to clean out. The forward pin will go in the center hole on the axle.

7. With the leaf springs connected front / rear, place the axle over the supplied shims. Fat side toward the front so that the axle rotates toward the center of the vehicle. This will eliminate vibration during speeds of 32 to 45 mph. Note that you have 2 centerpins, and will need to have 2 holes in the shims... the pins align with the holes in the bottom flat spot of the axle.

8. Brake lines... easy, but if you have never bled the brakes do a quick search. The last thing you want to do is pump them incorrectly. Just remember to keep your foot on the brake while you open / close the bleeder.

9. Shocks only install with the boot toward the bottom, not sure why but the 1st batch has the rubber bushings so that they only fit upside down. Oh well, no biggie if you don't get into too much water.

10. Install the spacers for the rear brake lines after the X is on the ground. This will allow the lines to not hyper extend or snap due to the axle weight on the parts.

FRONT INSTALLATION

1. I chose to the rear first, this is not a big deal but I felt it was easier to do it in that order.

2. Follow the instruction, loosen everything prior to removing it completely.

3. The Upper Control arm ball joint is a pain. Undo it half way, then smack the stock spindle until it lets go. This may seem easier said than done, but just keep smacking it. When it let's go the nut will catch it.

4. The axle nut is a big boy - 32mm I believe. FYI you can purchase replacements at Nissan for under $4 and also at Infiniti (same Nissan part). I damaged the threads on one bolt because I was using it to hit the axle / CV out of the hub. TIP: use an air hammer with a tip and use the hole in the center of the axle to help pound it out. I wish I knew this one. TIP: when doing the Lower Control arm ball joint... you MUST remove the entire bolt and nut in order to let the joint come apart. The ball joint shaft has a gap in it to prevent it from coming off. This joint also needs to be smacked... except that you will be not have a safety to keep the spindle from falling to the ground.

5. The entire front dif comes off, no biggie... except that some of the bolts are freakin tight. Use a double wrench technique and another body to help break the nuts. Also, the instructions says to mark the drive line... this is so that you can re-align the drive line in the correct position with the dif...

6. Grinding your dif mount... not a big deal. The instructions give you good dimensions, just go to town.

7. When installing the rear crossmember drop... on the passenger side... the first batch kits have 3 holes. ONLY 1 hole is used. It is the one that connects via the stock camber bolt hole. Only 1 bolt per side is ok. Abandon the other holes as they are not needed. 2nd batch kits will not have these extra holes.

8. A nice big pry bar will be key at this point. Things eventually line up, trust me. Use a pry bar to move things around.

9. The front diff has 3 attachment points. The front ones lined up easily. The rear one lined up but the bracket it was supposed to slip passed was a bit on the small side. I ended up grinding the sleave in the vibration dampner so that it would fit. Not a big deal either. Just grind about 1/8" on either side. This sleave just keeps the brackets from self collapsing and is only there to transfer vibration with the rubber dampner.

10. The struts that support the control arms are a pain. Lots of leveraging... be patient. Prior to installing, do a quick dry run with the rear brackets and the bolts that go through them and the strut. Note the clearance. If the washer isn't going to fit, then don't use it when you attach it to the crossmember on the X. Really, do a quick test...

11. Skid plate up front almost was a home run. 5 out of 6 holes aligned perfectly. I used my dremel to enlarge the last hole. Only a 10 minute distraction.

12. Don't forget to install the rear bumpstops. Note how tight everything under the X became. If you don't install them you may hyper extend a line. I will do some testing once the weather gets nicer and determine if I will run the stops.

13. No sway bars for me right now. Just don't drive it like a race car. I am not recommending people to do this, just my crazy preferance.

14. Oh, and don't forget to tighten all your tire lugs... or you may loose a tire on the road.

I think that's all I can think of for right now. Very tired here, been up since 6am... I have some pix to post but it will have to wait until tomorrow or so.

Again, feel free to PM me if you want my number. I am happy to answer after hour calls concerning the lift installation or other topics.

As far as the alignment, the shop I took the X to was very impressed with the quality of the kit. These old guys have been around for a long time and really admired the kit. It aligned without a problem!

The kit rides nice. The front seems stock while the rear has a more stiff feel. Probably because the springs are new so some settling is to be expected. The overall ride is great, I will post any other findings on the ride and handling as time progresses.

Overall, very satisfied with the kit... more pix to follow.

Robert