Our body lift bumper does require drilling four holes in the frame to use it with a winch. The added height means more stress on the bolts and frame. This gives you six bolts holding it on.

The 2in BL sliders are a no-brainer. They install and work the same.

No, it's the same. Since the winch is fully enclosed the bumper, and the tube attaches only at the front edge of the bumper, we dont need the bumper to stick out far enough to let the winch sit in front of the grill or to clear the back side of the uprights. That is a piece of 2" tube past the grill in the pic. You can see how little it sticks out past the grill.



>>Approach angle?

Pure/True Approach angle is illustrated in this pic. As you can see, how far the bumper sticks out is the limiting factor. (The angle of the line is off a bit in this pic bec you cant see where the tires actually hit the pavement, but you get the idea.)



Aside from this textbook definition of approach angle, there are other factors that matter in the reality of wheeling as much or probably more. The textbook definition of approach angle assumes you are driving up a flat ramp the full width of you vehicle. What we tend to see more of is uneven obstacles. If you need to get over a 24 in. tall boulder, you point a tire at it, not the center of the vehicle, so clearance in front of the tires is very important. Red arrow in pic below:



I believe our bumper is a little thinner out on the ends toward the tires than the other ones. Disclaimer, I've never actually measured the other ones, but it looks that way in pics to me.

Some bumpers actually hang below the frame horns. This is more of a front ground clearance than a approach angle thing, but every little bit helps.