The key is to measure the wheel arch heights at all 4 corners before you start...and, the amount of thread for each bolt sticking up over the adjuster nut (Not the lock nut, just over the top of the adjuster nut)....after you've taken off the lock nuts, but not cranked yet.
When cranking, you need to hold the top nut in place, so when you turn the adjuster bolt head from the bottom, the bolt goes up through the adjuster nut, leaving more thread protruding on top than before...
This cranking up of the adjuster bolt head up into the cross member pulls up the adjuster finger...which in turn twists the t-bar, and the t-bar's other end (in the LCA), downwards, lifting the truck.
If you hold the top nut and crank the bolt head from the bottom, so it draws up the bolt head into the cross member, leaving more thread on top than before...you are doing it right.
Threre is no relationship beween the change in the amount of threads on top, and the amount of lift though...so you have to get your final ride height by trail and error.
This is where the pre-measurements come in handy...to compare to.
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- TJ
2001 Xterra '03 VG33, SE 5 spd, 305/70/16's, Revolvers, UBSkidderz, Doubled AAL's, 3"SL/2"BL, winch/bumpers, skids, sliders, OBA, Snorkel, pine stripes....
Friends don't let friends drive stock.
http://www.gifsoup.com/view/501230/tj-tackling-crawlers-ridge-o.gif