Yeah, and what I am saying is that the half-shaft assembly that autozone sells includes that part, and the shaft and the inner CV joint. This way all you do is replace the whole thing instaed of taking twice as long to rebuild it. Not only that, but it is cheaper.

I have had outer and inner CV joints go bad on my Hondas. It is 10 times out of 10 cheaper and easier to buy the whole shaft assembly remanufactured than to rebuild the outer CV joint yourself. Plus the parts are sourced from companies that all they do is rebuild these things.

Like Ian said earlier in the thread it takes much longer and is much harder to replace the joint than the whole shaft assembly.

The boot is purely a dust cover. Typically in front wheel drive vehicles the part that breaks is the dust cover. This allows grime to get into the joint and causes it to fail. In your case the joint busted causing the boot to fail in the process as well as the joint itself.

I have replaced 4 CV halfshafts in my lifetime. 3 on my current honda and one on my last honda. The reason for my last change was actually a faulty part. I came around a corner just afterinstalling it to the wonderful sound of a driveshaft exploding. Just so you know, Hondas eat CV boots faster than other cars for some reason.

Again, all of this is moot if the dealership covers it. Otherwise buy the part at autozone and pay someone at a Les Schawb or something to do the work if you don't have the skills to work on it.

Well, I've gotten 3 different answers from AutoZone about this. The first guy said just the shaft, 2nd guy said shaft and boots with no outer cv, third guy said it's a complete kit with inner, outer, boots already greased and ready to install. I ordered it and will let you know what I get...

Did nissan not cover it under warranty?

Bryan

I'm still waiting to here back from them. I ordered it incase it's not covered. I should know today.

If you have alternate means of transportation, I would drive around to some auto parts places and see if anyone has one in stock. Unfortuantely, I think that this is not a commonly stocked CV half-shaft, but it might be worth a try. It makes it easier to return the core for a refund.

It's not driveable? Should be OK to drive, in 2WD or 3WD right?

Brent

2WD yes, 3WD no.

Norman, are you running Warn hubs? You may already know that there is a 'fuse' option for them. It is designed to 'blow' before other, more expensive parts like CV joints blow. The Land Cruiser guys were discussing it, said it blew too easily but if it is the same part as for the Warn Xterra hubs, think how much more a LC weighs
http://www.xterraparts.com/html/offroad.html
(see the Warn Hub Fuse link on their page)

yeah, but they don't allow you to push the limit, just THEIR limit, which I guarantee is a 5 on the wussie scale, just so they don't get sued.

Norman normally wheels beyond that point. They are a PITA to change too, and they sound like an O2 sensor on an old VW, just another thing to replace and keep the money coming in...

First, Thanks wq! for the info. I didn't want to order a part if I was unsure of what I was ordering.

The half-shaft came in and it's exactly what wq! said it would be. Total cost was $99. To clear up any confusion I might have caused, here is a photo of what you get...

Very cool Stormy...I guess I will just have to find some time to order and replace mine(I have a torn inner cv boot and the dirt/grit entered the boot so i am replacing the whole thing as a precaution). Did you order it locally through Autozone or through the website? I know the ESM says you need an end dial guage to measure the play of the shaft and then you adjust this by different thickness shims that Nissan is supposed to have, figured i would give you a heads up so you have all the right parts/tools before you start.

Thanks Stormy.
It's nice to know it's rather cheap to replace.

Is the end cap installed on the diff side ?

I got it at autozone. Got it in a day. The dealer said no go on the warrenty claim... Kinda figured that. The reason was the lift and the altered shaft angles.
I take a look into the tools I might need. Thanks for the help on this.

Yes, I think you need to drop the lower a arm and remove the shock to get it in though.

No problem! I hope everything goes well. In the past I have found that the splined end on the hub side were a bitch to get into the hub. However, this is was on a different vehicle.

If you are moderately mechanically inclined, it is not a tough job. I always had a mechanic friend with me guiding me when I was doing mine.

Sorry, I meant the "end cap" as in a plug. There is a dust cover plug on the diff side of the axle. I was wondering if it was part of the assembly.

Did it come with the bearing and spacer for the spindle too, or do you have to reuse the ones on your truck ?

I'm not sure what you mean. If you're talking about the bearing and spacer for the spindle inside the hub, then no it didn't. What you see in the picture is all of it.

Yes it did come with the cover.

seems to me that would be a good part to bring to GoneMOAB. did you have to give em the old one for the core charge? did they care HOW MUCH of the old one you gave them?

Matt

The core charge is $80, I am not sure how long you have to return the damaged one but I am sure it is not several months. For less than $180 you can carry one on the trail, well worth it for trips where you plan on wheeling for several days and you know the local Nissan dealer does not stock them.

it's a heck of a lot better deal than a $120 tie rod adjuster....

For $75 you get two EOE HD tie rod adjusters shipped to your door.

from where?

it should have the dust cover and all the small spider gears already in the complete assembly.

dude what's your problem and why are you getting off the subject?

Just order it 2 days before you leave. That should be plenty of time to get one in. I'm sure they give you at least a month on that kind of stuff.