So my clutch just burned out. Now I need to get a new one...what kind of clutch should i get, and what parts do i need to go with it. Any suggestions or help would be much appreciated!!!
Thanks!

Do a search on this site and you'll get a bunch of threads that'll help. This one seems like a good start. Note, however, that there were others.

So I think i'm gonna go with the centerforce dual clutch...seems pretty heavy duty and i think i'm hard on clutches...this clutch went out in 6 mos and i thought i was being more careful...could it be due to anything else...and will i need a throw out bearing or pilot bearing...and where can i find those

I just had a Centerforce put in about a week ago. It is sooo much better than stock! After shopping around I ended up getting it from car-stuff.com. To get the price down I had to mention that some other sites had it for less. I think they knocked off maybe $25. Some of the other places such as AC and 4x4rockshop had to either order it or drop ship. I needed it right away since my truck was already at the dealership, so that is primarily why I chose car-stuff. I think the price at most of the sites were about the same. Be sure you give them the correct part number (6 cyl vs. 4 cyl).

I didn't really need a new clutch so I don't know what else you may need. My transmission went out (no 1st gear). I was 2 months shy of my 100,000 miles/72 month extended warranty so it was covered. Since they were going to have the transmission out anyway, they said they would install the new clutch for $100. I am at about 60,000 miles so I figured I will need a new clutch at some point since I offroad quite a bit.

The dealership replaced the transmission, installed the Centerforce, replaced the rear main seal, wheel bearings, got the rear window to go up/down faster (regulator didn't need to be replaced), new windshield wipers, and replaced a couple bolts to the roof rack that I had lost. I had them check for an exhaust manifold leak (none) and they had indicated SES light intermittently goes on (which it doesn't) so they could check everything else. The total cost to me was $169.50. It was $100 for labor for the clutch and $69.50 for the warranty deductible. They also paid $30/day for a loaner car. I chose an '08 Fronty pickup so I ended up paying something like $7/day for the upgrade. It took them about 10 days to do the repair, but part of that was because they agreed to drag their heels in getting it done to allow me time to get the clutch. The only thing they wouldn't do is install my clutch interlock bypass switch because they said it was unsafe.

I sure am glad I got that extended warranty!

Hey so I ordered the centerforce dual friction clutch and a throw out bearing...i don't really have too much of a mechanical back ground...but i really love doing all the work i can...do you think i should attempt to replace the clutch myself...i would just have a local shop resurface the fly wheel if its still good...also i've only had the last clutch for 4 months or so...and i thought i was driving better...could there be something else besides harsh driving that could have contributed to it going so fast...a bad fly wheel maybe or...maybe something wrong with the hydraulic syster or slave cylinder?...any info would be much appreciated!!! I'm a newb and love this site because its allowed me to do so much and I def appreciate all the help.

If I can do it, anybody should be able to. Dropping the transmission/transfer case was an adventure but after that the clutch was real easy.

I always replace the clutch/pressure plate/throw out bearing/pilot bearing together, it's not worth taking everything apart again for the difference in cost.

Also if your clutch is gone in 6 months don't you have a warranty with the previous work? Did they replace everything?

they did replace everything but they told me if i went offroading they wouldnt cover it...and i def finished it off stuck in some water/mud on a trail

Why do you like it better than stock?

It's not as "mushy" and is more responsive. When I first took off from the dealership, I drove as I usually would, but chirped the tires because the clutch kicked in right away. It's almost like having lower gears. I feel it is more precise in hitting the sweet spot of letting off the clutch and giving it gas. I hope that makes sense.

No, makes total sence. What's the torque ratings on the Centerforce clutches?

SO i'm gonna have the clutch put in next week...any advice on how to break it in...or maybe some driving tips...i obviously am super harsh on clutches?

Break it in for as long as you can, it's recommended for 500miles/700km, but I do 1000kms. It's suppose to be mostly stop and go for that milleage. Don't dump the clutch or rev high and keep the throttle to about half for max. Avoid riding the clutch.

It may seem like a LONG time, but the break in period is critical in terms of determining how long your clutch will last.