starter just clicks.batt good starter is new. have power to every thing. Help!!

Are you sure the battery is good? Does it start from a jump?

Any recent electrical work done on the truck?

-G

You have power to everything,.. If you try to start it with your headlights on, do they go almost completely out? look at the wires connecting the battery, make sure they are tight on the battery, as well as at the other end of them.

What makes you say the battery is good? Just becaue you have power to everything doesnt prove that. You could have a dead cell, or a short in the battery.

I have 11.66 volts at rest on batt. 11.57 at main wire at starter and 11.46 at wire runing to starter from ignition.
tahnks

it will not start from a jump.
Thanks

Lights stay on when I try to crank. I have no idea what else to check. I have checked all the wires at the key. All have the correct voltage. ??????????

anything under 12.3 is on your way to a dead battery

State of Charge Specific Gravity Voltage
12V 6V
100% 1.265 12.7 6.3
*75% 1.225 12.4 6.2
50% 1.190 12.2 6.1
25% 1.155 12.0 6.0
Discharged 1.120 11.9 6.0

look about halfway down to see a better chart of voltage = amount of charge left.

You may have some voltage.. but you are not pulling enough current. Thus no start.

Replace your battery.

Have to agree with XOC about the batt on its way out,. but still strange that it wont start with a jump. My Nephew has a jeep that had starting troubles, it would start with a jump, but once shut off, not restart on its own again. found that to have a dead cell in the battery.

If your battery is too far gone, unless you are using very good cables you will not have luck starting the truck.

I'd want to know the age/info on the battery, if the alternator is working, and the answers to some of the unanswered questions in the thread...as the distributor, etc, can also be bad, yada yada yada....



If you have crappy cables, but another battery from something of appropriate power, you can swap batteries, and see if that fixes it.

If not, its other stuff.

wouldn't it start from jump even if he battery was dead. with over 11 and 1/2 volts it should at least turn over. one would think!
thanks

You would think wrong.

I am going to guess you did not look at those charge charts I posted.

And if you are using crappy cables then you would not get enough current to turn over the engine.

well its not the batt. just put the one out of my other car that has a charge of 12.4 and yes i looked at the charts

What is your voltage at the starter with the new battery?

The wiring to the starter might be corroded.

I am going to assume that you cleaned the battery terminals.

I think you're saying that you installed a different battery, with sufficient starting power (CCA, etc...) to start the truck, and it still doesn't start?

A Car battery as you said, or a battery for a truck?

What's the difference? X has a car engine

I think TJ was hinting at the idea of having enough CCA to crank the truck. That's all.

If the other battery DOES have enough CCA and it IS good, then after the swap it should start. Unless of course that's not the problem. I'd venture to say that if the original battery only has 11.something volts left, it's certainly bad. But here's where you have to speculate as we don't have more info. IF that is true, then the battery has most likely been in the truck for a long time. If that is true, then the cables are most likely original, and at this point, corroded internally and not carrying much power. Point being, if the cables are bad, and I speculate that they are, even a good battery will have trouble getting it to crank. Now if you try a different USED battery of unknown "good-ness", it may not work either, even though it may work in the vehicle it was borrowed from (different cables, better condition). This would also explain why it won't start from a jump.

So, all that being said, what's the power look like AT THE STARTER with the borrowed battery INSTALLED? (And that means installed, not jumped from it.)

-G

/\ /\ /\

Yup



And, the car engine (VG33E) uses a different flywheel for example (Lighter), and is easier to crank.



You can measure the continuity and resistance of the wires/cables if you have the meter, etc.

I was also pointing out (Wanting to anyway...) that the battery could have been low simply from trying to start the engine with it a bunch of times...

...or because the alternator wasn't working...

...or because the old cabling was too lossy and power was being bled off too fast to replace, etc.

OK ITS NOT THE BATT!!!!!!!!i got a new one today. still the same.the starter engages but will not spin. its new i had them test before i left to make sure it worked.. Any other ideas?

Yes....all the OTHER stuff we also mentioned.

What is the voltage at the starter with the new battery?

thanks
But you guys don't either.

We don't either what? Have ideas? There's been plenty listed. Where's the posts that says these other things have been checked and what were the results of those checks? Or why they haven't been checked?

We're trying to help...

-G

Thanks guys! I am very thankful for your help I am just very frustrated. I am going to try to work on it again this weekend. Will try more tests
Thanks again