I know wax has been done over and over on these boards. But I have a very specific question.
I've always used Turtlewax on my vehicles. I want to step up to something better on my X. Yesterday, I was at Wal-Mart, not really knowing what I was looking at, and I bought this stuff called Maguiars Cleaner Wax. OK. I read the label. Looks like standard, but better than average, wax to me. But what does "cleaner" in the name mean?
What I want to know is whether this is some kind of product that functions as a rubbing compound or some type of miracle product that's going to eventually decrease the life of my finish cause it takes away paint to acheive that luster on old beat up cars?
I've seen some references on this board to Maguiars 3-Step. Should I get that? I don't remember seeing any of that.
Should I take this stuff back and get something else? Anybody know anything about it?

A "cleaner wax" generally combines the typical steps #1 and #2 of the Meguiar's "three step" products. That is, it's not just a wax - but contains cleaning and/or polishing agents in addition to the wax.

My personal feeling is that I'd rather separate the steps so that each can do it's best job - and perhaps more importantly, you can control when and how often you choose to clean, polish and wax.

Granted, it's a bit more work, but you really don't need to clean/polish every time when a simple coat of wax will do, either. If you'd like, keep what you have but pick up a bottle of fine wax (just wax!) and use that altnernatingly.

Mother's Carnuba Wax is great. Get it at Pep Boys, about 16 bucks a can.

I tried this stuff and the more coats you do, the better the look. I have a white truck and it doesn't look as good as it would on the darker colors, but it does look better than when I got the truck. It is the easiest stuff I have ever put on/taken off as well.

If you're talking about Mother's California Gold Carnuba Wax, then I agree 100%, and believe me I've been through all of them. I even worked as a detailer in my younger years, it shines, protects, and lasts just as long as the 'professional' stuff.

I currently left one side of the truck covered in Meguiar's (applied at the same time as the Mother's), just as a test. Yesterday I slopped through mud, narrow branch-full trails, endless dust and dirt. The post-trip hosing off resulted in the Meguiar's side holding the mud to the paint, even a full blast hosing wouldn't get the stained parts off. I could only get if off with the wash mit -- which sucks, because when you pick up that dirt with the mitt you end up scrubbing it right back into the paint somewhere else.

Not only that, but the large swatches of area that were rubbed by the leaves, twigs and branches along the trails lost all their beading/shining too. What a useless wax.

The Mother's side: Hosed clean without effort. As in, spray the muddy/dirty areas and it looks like you just washed it.

superjens -
When your truck is really dirty, use the 'two bucket' method to wash it. One bucket with soap water, another with plain water. After washing a section, rinse the mitt or sponge in plain water first (to get rid of the dirt), then use the soap bucket. This way your soap water is clean throughout the washing process. You may have to change the plain water a few times tho - it will get really funky.

dave and xtoy - the truck is dirty, the car is clean

My suggestion is to use a good teflon based wax and put it on and take it off with an orbital buffer. The wax I use is called Weather Sheild and its distributed by Car Brite. But i'm sure if you go to a detailing supply distributor they can suggest a good "soft paste" wax. The ol wax on wax off method by hand is horrible on the new clearcoats. If you have a dark colored X use an orbital buffer. Trust me on this. If you don't you WILL get swirl marks all over your vehicle. Get an orbital buffer from Sears or somewhere they run about $30 for the cheap ones and by about 6 extra terry cloth bonnets. Put two bonnets on the buffer and aplly the wax with it. You should be in a cool shaded area so apply the wax to about half the vehicle. After that take the top bonnet off and put a clean one on. Then use the buffer to take off the wax , ands then use a clean terry cloth towel to buff off the remainder of te wax by hand. You can use the same bonnet to apply wax to the other half of your vehicle but be sure to use another clean bonnet to take the wax off. If at any time a cloth or bonnet hits the ground throw it in the dirty clothes and get another one. Any piece of sand or dirt will scratch the clearcoat.

Pardon me for saying this, but you must be doing something seriously wrong if you're getting swirlies/fisheyes if you're doing it by hand. Sounds to me like you need a lesson in paint prep.

I'll tell you what grab a foam applicator and any wax of your choice and put it on by hand. on any new dark colored cars and see if you leave swirl marks in the paint. I detail everything from new Lexuses to escalades and trust me I know how to wax a vehicle. But i learned the hardway putting Simoniz soft paste wax on by hand on a new black explorer. trust me the applicator leaves swirl marks.

That might be your problem - using a foam applicator... Yuck!

I prefer the terry cloth covered foam ones, which I rinse out often during the process and especially between products - if not using an entirely different applicator.

I have very faint swirlies, which I attribute to the chamois when drying... But overall, a pretty kick ass result.

I don't like orbitals because then you end up with wax all over the place and on the trim, etc. In doing it by hand, I get to enjoy the outside, and when I'm done - there's no wax anywhere but on the paint!

Yeah, so don't use that applicator.

Where do ya live Fullback? Maybe we should have a wax off! I bet you can wax off better than me. Use all the power tools you want, I still think it's better by hand.

You'd think I could have made a better joke. :rolleyes:

Orbital is the only way to go for me. And no wax on the trim. See, with the orbital you stop about an inch or so from the trim and do that section by hand. I can wax the X in like 1/2 an hour....including the roof.

I used to do the old "only by hand" method until I realized that my vehicle didn't care how tired my arms were. If I can make it look just as good in 1/2 and hour using an orbital vs three times that long by hand...hell, pass the orbital. Doing it by hand (in my opinion) is just a waste of time and only serves to make you think that by making your arms hurt and spending all day waxing the car you must doing something good for it.