I imagine Nissan can order it but my local dealership says that this is a "Nissan Technician" only item.

I call B.S. but I still need the part. I've tried PepBoys and Kragen. Does anyone have any ideas on where I can find a substitute?

Is that the bearing locknut socket?

If so, the 2 1/4" 2 pin socket for 88+ Isuzu, 89+Passport and Jeep J20 pickup w/Dana 60 should fit

Or so I heard. :wave:http://voy.com/14174/16649.html

Here's the one from Ontool:

http://www.ontool.com/store/product/80?OntoolSession=O8kVd4zwzRTdsJB62aHkFCtdtGZIrXROB9XvjM02q2jv8Tl1GxTj|579114783432480405/-1062723083/5/7001/7001/7002/7002/-1

It looks like an ordinary gear puller with reversible jaws. I've even seen those at Sears.

And the "technician only" thing is crap.

I found the socket type (like the Ontool one) at a local parts store (Salvo) this week - CTA Part # 4170 for $20.

Brent

Snoopy just use a punch or drift, the lock nut is not very difficult to get off so save the $20 or so for the tool.

Snoopy,

Do you have an Auto Zone in your area? The ones around here will loan you tools for free if they have them. I have borrowed gear pullers, clutch pilots, cooling system pressure testers, and other things from them. The tool you need might be a little specialized for the local Auto Zone, but for something that you probably won't use repeatedly, it's worth a call to see if they have it.

I agree, just make sure you get the right all-tread to screw into the holes on the hub piece, then attach it to the strong back.
It also looks like you can use a slide hammers with the proper jig to remove it. Kind of like those jigs you use to take brake drums off. The ones that bolt onto the studs that hold the wheel in place.

How are you torquing the nut to 72 lb. ft. with a punch when preloading the bearing ?

I have been working on cars and trucks for over 20 years and have always done wheel bearings by the feel of the drag when spinning the rotor, I have never once had a problem and that's the way I was taught by my dad and grandpa so when my son's old enough I will pass on the knowledge.

That's what I've always done, too. Never had a problem yet...

As for specialty tools, try Snap-On, or even Harbor Freight, a typically mail-order, but vast collection of tools. Also try Grainger. A search on a search engine should get you going!

Thanks guy! This board is great for information

It's not a gear or hub puller at all. The tool is used for removing the the front hub bearing retainer/nut and more importantly setting the pre-load on the bearings when re-assembling. The unit is supplied/available to the dealers thru Kent-Moore.

And yes, the "technician only" thing is crap.

Damm I was way off on that one. Pictures can be deceiving.

So have I, and your technique does nothing for preloading the bearing.

Ian,

I believe you can pre-load the bearing by tightening the bearing with hand tools. At least thats how I do mine. At one point I was doing my bearings twice a month because of deep wading. I had a bearing go bad before I learned better and swore it would never happen again. In fact, I bought the Snap-On bearing packer which I highly recommend for people doing this job frequently.

Anyway, I now get pretty damn close with adjusting by hand but it does take some experience to get it right.

-P

72 lb. ft. of torque with a hammer and punch ?
No thanks, I'll use the correct tool and a torque wrench everytime.

Oh no no... not with a hammer and punch! Never heard of using a hammer to set bearings! On my car and on my truck there is a nut that you tighten down against the bearings. I don't know why anyone would use a hammer on bearings unless they were removing or installing the races....

-P

The punch is so you can engage the hole on the retainer nut with the tip at about a 30 degree angle, at which point you tap it with a hammer to rotate the nut.

Brent

60+ years of installing wheel bearings the same way and not one problem...hmmm the technique I was taught must be working.

A brief explanation but being taught first hand and seeing it done is the real way to learn: obviously grease the bearings and install the rotor then outer bearings, when adjusting the lock nut you will be turning the rotor which allows the bearing to seat properly(I sometimes try to wiggle the rotor back and forth as well) you adjust the lock nut just until the rotor can not turn anymore, back it off about a turn or two until the rotor turns freely again. Now spin the rotor a dozen times or so and again repeat the above procedure...then it's time to set the drag and secure the locknut, this is the tough part unless you are taught and see it done..the rotor should freely spin but not to the point it is making a few rotations...it's hard to explain but the method I was taught is foolproof.

PS The way I have been taught is the way i will always do wheel bearings, I have used this method on Ferraris, Corvettes, Mercedes, Toyotas etc but if someone feels more comfortable using a tool it's available as posted above and just follow the Nissan instructions.

I got a better look at that tool about 3 pages back in the manual (page AX-2 in mine). I apologize if I mislead anyone - it's definitely no puller.

Be prepared for severe sticker-shock if you order it from Kent-Moore. An ordinary cup-type oil filter wrench is $20 from them.