Changed oil & filter today,what a snap.If anyone likes Fram filters the filter # is ph7317 for the 6 and 4 banger. My question is when I removed the skid plate there was a couple drops of oil in it and also a light film of oil around and above the drain plug. but not leaking from the plug. Has anyone else noticed this. I hope its because maybe the seals & gaskets haven't expanded yet. Only 1k mi. on it. I will run this oil for 2k more than switch to synthetic.

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Don't by Fram filters, they are complete crap: Excellent study on filters .
Better yet go by the dealer and buy a half dozen Nissan filters next time you get a chance, they're under $5 each. Plus if one blows and takes your engine out with it, Nissan will step up and cover it all no questions. Try that if your Fram filter craps out. You'll need to visit them anyway to get the copper crush washers to seal the drain plug, you must use a new one every time.

As for your observations, keep an eye on the oil level. I've never noticed any oil at either location. It is possible the oil filter might not have been properly tightened initially, and the oil around the drain plug might have been blown from the splash guard back onto the pan. I presume you would have tightened them properly so that should take care of it. If not, it's something to look into.

Brent

[This message has been edited by OffroadX (edited 07-20-2001).]

I've had really good success by sealing drain plugs with Permatex aviation gasket-sealent (dark red goopy stuff with applicator brush in the lid).

It gets a little old by the time the next oil change rolls around, but a couple of seconds on the wire-wheel cleans the old sealant off.

I apply a thin wipe of the stuff under the plug head, and the first few threads up under the head. That's all; I don't bother coating any near the tip.

This works so well, that the nylon gasket on my wife's old Corrolla was a throw-away, and I never replaced it (we held it for 9 yrs/200,000km). Same on an old Subaru, but even more milage!

So - personally, I wouldn't ever worry about renewing the Nissan copper washer. Even if it gets lost, the sealant will still do a perfect job.

BTW - you don't need to reef hard on the plug (and risk stripping the pan-threads ). Just snug it, and a little bit more.

HTH!


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2001 Solar Yellow XE (S/U/P)
tow hooks, storage shelf

The filter comparison was interesting. The letter Im sure was written by a former disgruntled employee,but like you say I have to get the crush washer anyhow so my next filter will be Nissan. Any idea who makes them?

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Hey, at the risk of sounding like a complete idiot. How many quarts of oil i'm in supposed to put in ?? I've always had the dealership to the oil change before. The manual says 3 1/2 quarts, but i've put in 4 quarts in a 4 cylinder engine before. I'm confused..

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Dave. aka Medic
All bleeding stops eventually.
NCCX www.nccxterra.com

[This message has been edited by XterraMedic (edited 07-22-2001).]

The manual is right at 3-1/2 qts for the 6-cyl.

No reason why it should be related to the number of cyls. It makes oils changes more economical.

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So now there's no excuse to not use Synthetic.


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Gary
Xterra Galactica

once your over 15K miles though

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'01 SE 4X4 5-Speed Just Blue
Ski_Racer27@Hotmail.com
AIM: TwinTurbo27

oh dont start this again. Change your oil to sythentic after you have properly broken the engine in.

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-Xavier

All your trail are belong to us.

yeah! we have been over this before!!!!! this is directly from amsoil. probably the best synthetic oil there is! read it one more time!! ------ There are a lot of different opinions on this subject for a lot of different reasons. Some are fact and some might have been fact at one time. Here’s the story.

Engine manufacturers have constantly improved their products as far as machining techniques. Tolerances and fits are much better than years ago. Most gasoline powered engines are pretty much broken in right away. You can tell this by the fact that thee is very seldom and oil consumption on a new car any more. Years ago the manufacturer used to recommend driving a certain speed for so many miles and then go faster etc etc. You don’t see that any more either. At one time there was actually a “break in “ oil used.

Keep in mind, engines will break in and piston rings will seat in engines using synthetic motor oil immediately, just somewhat slower. Cars such as the Chevrolet Corvette are coming off the line with synthetic oil in the crankcase. Diesel engines and remanufactured engines are the exception. Diesels break in slow because of the extremely robust components in them. It’s the nature of the beast. Reman engines often are not machined with the same precision with which the manufacturer builds them originally, and henceforth may require more break in.

We get asked this question every day. We spent a little more time explaining this for you because it seems there are several people looking for an answer. We hope this helps. Generally when someone asks this question we have a quick paste in answer which we’ll include below for you.



You may switch to AMSOIL at any time. However, all new engines have a certain amount of machining debris and contaminants. You may wish to capture these unwanted items in a less expensive oil and filter, and change it sooner than recommended. The exception would be Diesel engines or remanufactured engines for which a longer break in period with petroleum oil may be needed.





-----Original Message-----



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I just gave our X it's first oil change.
I did not change out the copper crush washer.
Reading these threads/posts is the first time I have ever heard of changing the washer.
We have owned Nissans exclusively since 1986 when we purchased the first 4 cylinder version of the 1986.5 Pathfinder.
Also had v-6 1990 Pathfinder along with a couple of other I4 Hardbody pickups.
I have always changed the oil in all of our Nissan vehicles but never changed "crush" washers and have never had any drain plug leaks. Is this a new recommendation from Nissan?

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If it doesn't leak, I guess it's not necessary. I don't take any chances, it's a $.20 part that can save you $5000.

Brent

well i think thats exaggerating a bit... even if for some strange reason it did go bad, i dont think it could lose that much oil between oil level checks unless you left the plug majorly loose or something.

I could use that $.20 for 4 peices of licorice you know

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I'll stop procastinating tomorrow, okay?

Ramsey nj Nissans crush washers must be made of gold there $.99 each

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A lot of dealers use the washers as an added profit item - 99 cents!
I never changed the washer on my 13 yr. old pathlooser and don't plan on starting now.
For those that are so worried, I've seen plastic replacement washers that are rated for the lifetime of the vehicle. From a technical standpoint, there is no pressure in the oil pan - how difficult is it to seal the drain plug?

dave and xtoy - the cost of cheap insurance adds up

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I just ordered some drain plugs from xterraparts and then also ordered the washers. What they sent me were drain plugs with a washer sorta permanently on there. The packing slip said "replace with current part" next to the line item for the washer. So now I guess they come as one whole piece instead of a separate plug and washer. At least that's how mine came.

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01 SE 4x4
Silver Ice

Why did you order a drain plug, much less more than one?

Brent

On the subject of replacing washers (whether or not and with what), I've had good success over the years with teflon washers. Seal well .. you just don't want to 'gorillatize' 'em or you'll squeeze 'em out. Didn't even need those, though, until after lots of oil changes had finally flattened out the washer integral to the drain plug.

I guess I'm kinda with Brent on this one: Why buy new drain plugs? (Unless of course you've somehow trashed the original.)

Just a thought, FWIW, YMMV, etc etc.

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~ja
01 XE 'Blanca' Cld Wh, 5-Spd, V6
86 HD FLTC - Mine
94 HD XL883 - Hers

'Ice Cream has no bones.' .. Clyde Nicely

The owners manual says to change your engine oil every 3750 miles or three months (which ever comes first, schedule 1). Is this too long to wait for the first change? Part of the deal I got with my new Xterra is three free oil changes, so I planned on making the switch to Mobil 1 after the freebies. How's that for a plan? Oh one other thing, does anyone make an magnetic drain plug for the Xterra?

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Green 2001 SE Auto 4x4

I replace them every so often when I change my oil. Once or twice a year I put a new one on. They're only $1.49. Plus I like to keep a spare or two around for that "never know when you might need it" reason. If it ever came out or got lost I like to know I have a few spares around.

They're not a wear item, should last the life of the vehicle. And if one falls out, I don't think you'll be concerned about replacing it, because it will likely happen when you're driving and by the time you notice you'll be needing a new engine. But hey, knock yourself out...

Brent

Yeah, I know, but for a buck and half, why not. And as stupid as this sounds, I have lost them before (not on my X though). More than once I've been in my driveway changing the oil, having a beer, and a neighbor comes by. Next thing I know I've lost all concentration and I can't remember where the F I put the drain plug. So for me, it's a good thing to have a few around.

First off,
Sounds like a good plan, I'm a big fan of Mobil 1 Synthetic.

Second,
I work in a Napa auto parts Distribution warehouse and have seen aftermarket magnetic oil drain plugs on the shelves.
I could find out what the part number for a drain plug is but I need to know the size and thread of the stock Nissan plug first.

Anyone... Anyone...
Bueller...

If it doesn't leak, don't fix it!

Hope this thread isn't dead -

I just changed my oil (for the first time on my X) and was all set to replace the Drain Plug Crush Washer, but I couldn't get the original one off the plug.

Cygnus-X1 mentioned getting a plug with the washer built in. Can anyone confirm this? The washer that was still in the plug looked exactly like the new one I was going to put on, but damn if the thing would come off. I pried at it for a while, but didn't want to damage the washer if I couldn't get it off. So now I've got an X with new oil, but an iffy seal in my oil pan...

Ideas?