Just a quick question

So the BFG 33X12.5 are rated for a 8.5" rim or larger, I have read that you can run them on 7" rims so the questions.

1. Insurance are you covered if you dont follow the manufacturers instructions?
2. What are the cons of running these on 7" rims

3. Does any one have a link for rims that are 15X8 with the right offset that do not cost an arm and a leg?

Did a search just to cover my a$$

Cheers

Snorri

well crager makes a black steel rim that you can get fairly close to the stock BS. i dont think they have one that is the stock BS, but my rims are the 15x8 crager soft 8's with the 4.75 BS. they're only (i think) like $36 each and look so much better then the stock stuff. jegs has a thing where you can get free shipping if you buy from them but i got mine from summit.

those are only 31's though(for now)

35x12.5 on a 15"x7" pathy rim.

Works well for me.

I ran 16x8 rockcrawlers with a 5.5" BS and with 285/75r16's I needed to trim sheet metal with a 3" suspension lift (no body lift)

Thanks for the info

Does anybody know if these Cragar rims 15X8 4.75 BS will require cutting metal with PML and 2"Bodylift -

sorry if this has been covered but this BS thing just does not register with me

Cheers
Snorri

it shouldn't(maybe some plastic, or even the removal of the front splash guard plastic), but im not sure and wont know until i get my 2" body lift and 33's on. i'll be running the PML and the 2" body lift with my 31's for a while until i need/can afford the 33's when my 31's are shot.
here\'s a link to the soft 8\'s on summit

Snorri, you are really risking it with not going with 5.5BS With a BL and PML, I do not think you will have to do trimming. My buddy stuffed 32 under just a BL and was fine. Then we added a PML. Keep in mind that the Backspacing is what you will run into problems with. This will put you at the most risk for trimming.-James

I am running 33x11.5 AT on my stock 16's and 32x11.5 MT on my stock 15's. There are pics below for reference.

Some people say that the narrow rim makes the tread bow out in the center more than usual and creates more of a sidewall than on a wider rim, which does make sense. This being said, the truck does not feel more unstable or dangerous by any means, and the tread wear is very even and healthy. There are a lot of members here that are running large tires on stock wheels.

Just for background, these pics are with a 3" BL and 1.5" PML. 32's didnt rub much at all, 33's required a steering stop adjustment.

32's
[img]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/freestyledude/Xterra%20Lift/P1010908.jpg?t=1189220012[/img]

32's and 33's
[img]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/freestyledude/Xterra/P1010954.jpg?t=1189220142[/img]
[img]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/freestyledude/Xterra/P1010956.jpg?t=1189220173[/img]

There are 1,000's of us running 33x12.5's on 7" rims...and no one has had a problem yet.

I ran jeeps like that, and now X's run like that...its fine.

For street performance, generally, you want the rim width to equal the tread width (The sidewall and tread width are not the same thing...sidewall widths are wider)...as it makes a nice flat foot print with less tire roll.

For offroad, some sidewall flex is desireable, as it helps the tire wrap around rocks, get grip, etc.

As a compromise, a 7" rim is good to go...and has been a reliable solution. An 8" rim also works fine.

The BS issues are your bogey though...the less BS, the more the tire sticks out, and the more it will hit as you turn the wheel, as the tires are swinging through a wider arc.

Because BS is a hub face to inner lip measurement...changing rim width won't hurt the clearance if the BS is the same.

Thanks for all the replies - I think my mind is made - stock wheels for the 33"

Now I am just waiting for the kit and shackles from AC - Cant wait I am like a kid at christmas - guess I got bitten by the Mod bug!

cheers
Snorri