Heya.

I've been going ape-sh!t installing sound deadening all thru the cabin. S'nice.

Obviously "dynamatting" the panels around the speakers is a good idea. I was thinking, though, of borrowing some sub box design options for the front mid speaker enclosures.
You know, that wierd tube the speaker mounts to.

I know stuffing a sub enclosure with that flossy batting material (kinda like a plastic fiberglass) can increase the effective volume of the enclosure and smooth out some of the high frequency noise. Why not do the same with the front mids? There's a perfect enclosure for it.

That should produce slightly deeper sounds out of the front mids and clean up the high end of the mids.

Do mids need to breathe? I.E. would that batting restrict the cooling of the mid? I could see where it could be a problem with a sub. They get hot.

mikeT

p.s.: let's avoid rambling in this thread.



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2001 SE 4X4
Rain+Dirt!

the mids really do not do that much work. I put dynomat all around the cargo area, and around each speaker. Then I added a foam enclosure around the back of the speakers. It helps reduce vibration and ensures that the sound goes into the cabin and not the sheet metal. It also protects the sheet metal in case the 6x9's really start to hit hard. ( isaw someone sho had dented their quarter-panel on an x that way. I wouldn't worry about the fronts as much as the subs. Spend your money and time on a good quality amp and subs. Keep in mind also, the tpye of box you go with. A bandpass (which I have) is great for hard rock and rap cause it really hits hard. But sealed enclosures, ehich I assume you are talking about, produce less total bass, but are more accurate and the sound quality goes slightly up. My box (a q-Logic) can be modified to be a sealed enclosure if need be.

If you put a good amp and subs in the back, you won't hear a difference in the front whether you added one sheet of dynomat or 3 boxes worth.

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'01 SE 4X4 5-Speed Just Blue
Ski_Racer27@Hotmail.com
AIM: TwinTurbo27

All speakers with moving cones will produce heat. Filling a sub box with the fibrefill "tricks" the sub into believing it's in a larger enclosure. This is not necessary for the front mids. The mids are exactly that MIDS. They are designed for fs(free air) enclosure(read seal off your door)and would more then likely effect performance if enclosed.
This is not to say you can't do it, but I would not seal that stock mounting bracket. Rather I would build a decent kick panel enclosure and add a 6.5' or slim 8" driver. You'll get more bass up front and still us the mids for their intended purpose.

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Visit our club http://www.soxc.org
My web page. XXXTERRA

Yeah, I know a dedicated woofer makes more bass. I'm not interested in dropping a box in anywhere now. Later, will replace one of the side panels with a custom designed box.

Q-Logic, nice choice, they're my favorite box builder.

I'll pop 6" Boston Acoustic mids in the front doors. I just want to optimize their sound.

As for mids being designed for free air. True to a point. Acoustically, any speaker's sound can be improved by mounting and enclosing it in a particular way. Look at Bose designs for instance. And then imagine a "free air speaker" being played while dangling in the open air by a thread.

So the enclosed 6x9's aren't heating up?

mikeT


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2001 SE 4X4
Rain+Dirt!

By free air I mean to say in a non specified enclosure of sorts :-). The speakers are in an enclosure, the doors, all you should do is seal over the open pockets. An air tight enclosure is not required. True most speakers will sound better in some sort of enclosure, but they are not all designed the same way. I'm sure the Bose speakers were designed that way whereas most aftermarket speakers must compromise in their design to satisfy many different applications.

Are you going to be using an eq? if so maybe you can tune the mids to hit a lower frequency, although you will probably lose some volume.

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Visit our club http://www.soxc.org
My web page. XXXTERRA

wait, you are not installing any subs in the truck??? Then there is really no need for dynomat, let alone any thing beyond that. I understand that if you went with a top end speaker (BA) that you would want total performance, but an amp will make the most difference right off the bat.

I have had zero problems with my setup, with the exception of the installer being an idiot. He scratched up my interior and the made it worse trying to fix. But that was only the amp, ehich I had to re-ground myself cause they did such a bad job. The speakers and dynomat were all done together by the good guys, who did an awesome job and gave me a decent price.

I blew a mid after a week, but I think the guys who installed the amp did that. I bought the warranty onthe speakers (jl audio seperates up front, kenwood in the back)do it was no biggie. The sound quality is awesome.

the subs (jl audio 10s) are perfect. They can only take like 125 watts, and the amp gives them like 300, but I have yet to have and distortion, its just perfectly clear bass, and without any rattles in the truck.

With the windows up, you can barely hear the stereo, but when I put the windows down and open the hatch, I was able to ill an entire park with a concert untill our band showed.

my amp (clarion APX600.5 has only overheated once, and that was after 5 hours of continous blasting at the max it would go. I've also used it on a trip to sun river (7-8 hours) and it was barely warm cause you don't need to turn it up very much.


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'01 SE 4X4 5-Speed Just Blue
Ski_Racer27@Hotmail.com
AIM: TwinTurbo27