Very specific instructions if you have them. I need bolt sizes, dimensions, and such. Ben sent these out as a text document to all who requested them, but I seem to have lost that email. I recall it was very well laid out, beer breaks and all. Please help.

I hope to do this Saturday, please help if you can

For those who have no idea what I'm talking about, see xcanucks here:
http://www.geocities.com/x_canuk/rbin.html

You have mail. Hope this helps.

Thanks Paul...
I have posted them here for the archives:

Installation Instructions for the STEEL HORSE TAIL BOX in the overhead of the cargo area of your X

Parts:
1 – Pair of Steel Horse Tail Boxes found at K-mart for $49.95. Split the cost with another X owner that wants the mod also.
2 – 1/8” X 3/4" X 36” steel bars from Home Depot for $3.65.
2 – ¼ -20 X 2”s.s. pan head phil. bolts.
4 – ¼-20 X ¾” s.s. pan head phil. bolts.
2 – ¼-20 X 1 ¼ “ s.s. pan head phil bolts.
6 – ¼” s.s. fender washers.
6 – ¼-20 nylon nuts.
4 – ¼-20 s.s. aircraft nuts. Total price for fasteners $6.00
2 – ¼” mirror mount nuts found at Home Depot. I found out that all Home Depot stores don’t have the same inventory. The HD on 45S by the Fuqua exit in Houston is where I found mine. They look similar to a wall anchor you would use to hang a towel bar but it has a rubber coating on the front and doesn’t include a bolt. They’re about ¾” long with a gray coating. They’re sold individually packaged in a white and clear bag. Made by Crown Bolt Inc. $1.85 ea.
1 – Can spray paint. I went with the Hard Hat Flat Black. $2.50

Tools:
Cordless drill
Uni-bit
Dremel tool
Files – round and flat
Screw driver – phil.
Tape measure
Making Tape
6 pack of Shiner Bock (Substitute any kind of Sam Adams if desired)
Hacksaw
First aid kit
Permanent marker
¼”-20 tap and handle
White paint marker
Straight edge about 24” long
Rags
Acetone

Directions:
1. Remove rear hangers and rear headliner fasteners.
2. Tap rear hanger bolt holes with ¼”-20 tap. No drilling is needed.
3. Widen holes where the headliner fasteners slightly with Dremel to accept the mirror mount nut.
4. Insert mirror mount nut with ¼”-20 X ¾ “ bolt and washer into widened holes and tighten bolt to expand the mirror mount nut. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN; THIS WILL STRIP THE PLASTIC COATING ON THE END OF THE NUT.
5. Remove the bolt and washer from mounting nuts.
6. Beer break.
7. Drill hole into one end of both steel bars centered on three sides. I let the uni-bit slightly bevel the hole to clean it of burrs, turn over and de-burr the other side of the hole.
8. Now the tricky part, remove the base of the box and position it where it will be permanently mounted in the overhead of your X. Use a piece of masking tape to mark the trailing edge of the base. This will be the location of the bend in the steel bar for the mount.
9. Measure from the center of the bolt hole where the hanger used to be to the edge of the masking tape. Transfer this measurement to the steel bars.
10. Bend the bars slightly, about 10-15 and use the 2” bolts to temporarily get the rear end of the mount up there.
11. Use the marker and mark where the forward bolt hole and the end of the bar should be. I just eyeballed all the measurements because I have done extensive install and fabrication, sorry I don’t have exact measurements.
12. Cut and drill the forward bolt holes beveling the holes as before.
13. Beer break.
14. Use a quarter and trace a half circle on the rear of the bars around the rear bolt holes. Cut / file / shape the ends to the mark and de-burr.
15. Fit bars back into overhead and use the white paint marker and “paint” the ends of the forward bolts.
16. QUICKLY place the base into position to mark the placement of the forward holes with the paint on the end of the forward bolts.
17. Remove base and drill the marked holes big enough to accept the ¼” –20X3/4” bolts.
18. Bolt the base up there with the forward bolts and fender washers.
19. Use the straight edge to draw a line on the base from the center of the forward bolts to the center of the rear bolts. This is your guide for the center two bolts.
20. Eyeball the position of the center bolts on the line, equally spaced of course.
21. Drill through the plastic base to mark the position of the holes in the steel bars.
22. Remove the whole assembly and BE SURE TO MARK THE BARS AS TO WHICH SIDE THEY BELONG ON!!!!
23. Drill and bevel the four holes in the steel bars. Drill the holes in the plastic larger than needed to allow bolts to shift when installing end bolts. You tighten them down when doing the final install.
24. Beer break.
25. Wipe the bars with acetone to prep them for paint and then paint ‘em!
26. Beer break. Wait over night to handle them again.
27. Bolt the bars to the correct sides of the base with the ¼”-20X ¾” bolts, fender washers and aircraft nuts.
28. Insert 2” bolts into the rear holes and thread 2 nylon nuts onto each bolt to hold it in place. Do the same for the front 1 ¼” bolts with only one nut on each side. The nylon nuts act as a means to hold the nuts in place and as a spacer up front and locks for the rear bolts and housing for the old hangers.
29. Beer break.
30. Bolt them in place ensuring not to torque them too close to the headliner so as not to bow the base buy hitting the corners on the outside of the head liner. Lock the rear bolts with the nylon nuts. One Nut goes up against the housing for the hangers and one goes down to lock the bar and bolt together. I used a t-handle allen wrench to turn the nut in the close quarters of the housing.
31. Beer break.
32. Install the bottom of the box and shocks, and there you have it, a great storage place for all your small crap in the back or your X.
33. Beer break.
34. Take pictures and post them!

Where can I find the Steel Horse Tail Box? I went to my local K-Mart they don't have. Any idea on any other locations?