Does anyone have a parts list or specs on how to create home-made quick disconnects for the xterra front sway bar? I have seen posts on the types of bushings, etc.. but no complete breakdown or parts list, where to get these parts, assembly instructions etc. Does anyone have this information?

There really isn't a list since you need to use what you can find.

Here\'s my write-up from years ago.

Don't get the plastic knobs, if it ever sticks the plastic strips form the metal and has to be cut off. Get some metal knobs or a large wingnut.

Try searching under Craigs Tonka, he kinda perfected that system...
Edit too add-Front Sway-Bar Disconnect

Craigs_Tonka

Supporting Member

Former AZXC Member

Sold my 2000 Yellow XE 3-Pack
Keep it simple.



I've ran these for the last 8 months. The only change I've made is cross drilling the bottom of the bolt and putting a hairpin through it so the wingnut cannot loosen up and fall off.

The larger diameter steel wingnut is welded to a 3/8 inch nut so you can get plenty of torque to tighten it down (to the point of squashing the endlink bushings) and not strip / break anything, as some have done with the plastic knobs.

I can't believe people would pay $125 for a set of those Toyota disconnects.

I'll give you 5 sets of mine for that price.

Ice chickenX-
Being a newbie, I have these questions:

What are the advantages to disconnecting the front sway bar? (articulation, maybe)

can you leave the front sway bar off?, like the rear sway bar (or so I've heard you can leave the rear off.)

Thanks
Craigs_Tonka

Yes, you gain articulation which helps to clear some difficult obstacles that you may not make it over otherwise.

As far as leaving the bars disconnected. I do have my rear bar removed, (but I wouldn't suggest it with stock shocks and springs). I have the 3-AAL system and bilsteins in the rear.

The front I leave connected on the highway. Even though I've got the stiffer torsion bars and shocks up front, you still can notice a big difference if the front bar is disconnected.

If 90% of the time you are in your truck you are on the highway or gravel / dirt roads, leave your sway bars connected. If you come across an obstacle that you are concerned you cannot make it over, remove your bars for the added articulation. It only takes 5 minutes.

I'm still running my original disconnects after 3yrs that IAN improved on by adding the knobs and they work great and cost $1 for the hardware. Instead of the knob I used a 3/8” locking washer and wing-nut on top, you can hand tighten/loosen them but I also wrench the bolt ~ 1 turn while holding the nut to ensure a snuggle fit.

IAN's & Craigs mods are nice you should be able to use IAN's without any tools, however for me the bolt/wing-nut on Craigs appears a bit too low hanging in that pic & could get damaged on the rocks on the kind of trails/wheelin' I tend to do sometimes.

I usually only disconnect the front on the tougher trials when I want some added flex/articulation knowing that bar will bang on the tie-rods a bit, steering components and CV's are stressed more and may/will wear quicker as a result.

Craigs_Tonka

So if I turn the bolt around and take another picture would you then like it.

The bolt can go in either way. When I took the picture I was testing them and if the wingnut was to fall off I lost less parts than if it was in the other way around.

Now that I've crossdrilled the bolt and put a hairpin in it, it's impossible for the wingnut to come loose so putting the bolt up from the bottom would be the better direction for ultimate clearance. (you never know when that quarter inch may make a difference)

Originally posted by goofiefoot:
Where did you find the knob? Where did you get the poly bushings?

-jason
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I'm not Ian, but I'll tell you where to get them in my area of the country.

Pep Boys, Checker Auto Parts or Auto Zone carry the 3/8" poly endlink bushings.

Home Depot or Lowes Home Improvement carry the plastic knobs that the 3/8" nuts fit in.

I am new to this also. When you disconnect the sway bars, do you just let the one end just hang there freely? Wouldn't that make a hell of alot of noise or maybe even interfere with something? let me know please. Thanks.
Craigs_Tonka

You disconnect both sides. It does rattle on the lower control arms and also hits the tie rod adjusters but doesn't do any damage because it doesnt bind with any pressure, just bounces around.

I carry some foam tubing used to insulate water pipes. When I disconnect I slip the foam over the ends of the front sway bar and velcro or duct tape it on. This really helps to keep things quiet.

If you droop a tire, and stuff a tire, and are turning, you can easily bend a tie rod adjuster with the disconnected swaybar (I bent two).
It can put a lot of force on it, so it's best to know when that situation is happening, and be easy on the steering.

I still want a solution that relocates the sway bar, or changes the design of it so there is never any contact.

--------------------
Regards,
Ian

Jump to page... 1 2

Why did you post all that instead of just linking it ?

Ha! as you can see i've been trying to edit it it and cut it back some. NOT everyones a computer genius like you Firth..

jesus jones there must be a lot of computer geniuses in your world...