Not many people will have a use for this, but Calmini will have a slip yoke eliminator kit for the transfer case soon:
Discussion @ N4W

For those that I'm sure will be asking, here's what an SYE is/does:
The factory setup has the front end of the rear driveshaft simply sliding over a splined shaft inside the rear of the t-case with nothing holding it there but the rear diff at the other end. This is called a slip yoke arrangement. As the rear suspension moves on any solid axle, the distance between the t-case and the diff increases/decreases by a bit in the process and the slip yoke slides in and out of the t-case accordingly, of course with some leftover length over the shaft inside so it doesn't disengage and/or fall out during normal suspension travel. However, should you significantly alter the suspension travel the stock slip yoke will not be able to move enough to accomodate it and the driveshaft can butt into the t-case (also stressing the diff flange) or fall out of it depending on how much the travel changed in each direction. That's not good.
A SYE setup puts a short non-sliding flanged end over the shaft at/in the end of the t-case. Of course, now there's nothing to allow for the shaft to shorten or elongate as the suspension cycles, but that's where a new 2-piece driveshaft with its own ability to adjust its length comes in. Our front shaft, which hardly needs to move in the first place since the diff and t-case are essentially fixed in position relative to each other (but the small movement of the diff in the bushings etc is enough to require it vs. abusing the bearings) is pretty much what it's like. You can have one built to your needs, not all that expensive.

This is very much a niche product so far, moreso than the crawler gears even, and I hope Calmini doesn't take too much of a bath on this. However for those that want to truly take their buildup to a new level with a super-flexy rear, this will be just what the doctor ordered.

Slip yoke eliminators also come in handy if you break a u-joint on the rear driveshaft and have to remove it to drive off a trail in front wheel drive.

Without it, you need to plug the transfer case somehow to avoid losing gear oil.

That's a good point XOC! I wish I would have had a SYE on the Wrangler I used to own. I blew out quite a few U-joints...
Might be interested in adding this to the X after I get the 3" Suspension lift.

True, but how many folks would buy one for that reason alone? Are we really breaking u-joints on Xterras?

How many people are lifting their Xterras high enough for drive shaft separation to be an issue ? A lot less than those who might break a u-joint.

I've witnessed a lot of bad driving at the events I host, I'm really surprised I haven't seen one break yet.

When I lifted my girlfriend's Cherokee it needed a SYE. The lift was supposed to be 3" by turned into 5.5" at the rear. It hasn't settled at all. The lift was enough to cause driveline vibrations from the U-joints operating at extreme angles. The SYE was to allow fitting a two piece drive shaft with a double cardan joint behind the engine. This combined with a little rotation of the rear axle with shims took care of all vibration. This is something the Xterra will have to worry about as it gets jacked up higher.

Ian, duh, obviously there are a handful of people if any lifting an X or any other TX-10 equipped Nissan high enough to make it an issue so far, the lack of a solution to the issue would pretty much keep all but the foolhardy from building to that level so far.
Now that there is a solution, I think the number of people that will build suspensions that require an SYE will climb, while the number of people with busted u-joints will either stay next to zero or go up along with the build-ups as the built vehicles get more abuse than the ones we've seen to date.

Brent

Now available at CALMINI ...

Ah, the old hack and tap. Widely reguarded as the cheap way to fix the problem on the jeeps. In this case, you get to pay as much as a real system, and get the cheap version. I didn't think Calmini would stoop. Priced at least $100 too high.

the xterra is still relatively a new vehicle, just wait a few years once ujoints start getting worn from corrosion and such. drivers who do not do proper maintenance will start breaking u joints.

The Jeep versions are more expensive because they shorten the length of the transfer case. We don't have that issue with our long rear drive shaft, nor do we have a removable tail section on the transfer case. It also doesn't require a new output shaft because ours isn't as weak as the one in an NP231.

This does everything it needs to do. If you can machine one for less money, go right ahead.

But they cost less.

For Jeeps there are 2 types of SYE. From Rubicon Express

There are ones like what Calmini is offering to us where you cut and tap the output shaft for with the part being $87.95


and ones that replace the tailshaft housing and fit a yoke for $294


I'm assuming the reason Calmini's is priced more than $100 higher than the equivalent Jeep part is purely due to the lower demand.

I guess what I am saying is that the "hack and tap" sold by rubicon express and now calmini for us is a cheap design. i.e. low rent, ghetto, etc. I don't typicaly associate Calmini with that sort of product. So, when I see such a low rent rendition, with a high rent price I think it's bullshit. No they won't move as many units, and yes I can see the reason why it would be somewhat more pricy than a jeep system, but not that much more. As far as making it myself, its not the skill, but rather the lack of a metal lathe. Odds are, they already the manufacuring equipment so why is it so damn expensive for what you get?

Good answer. It's ghetto because it doesn't have a whole bunch of parts and shit right ? You're confusing quality with quantity.

It's the only solution required for our vehicles. There is no reason (or way) to shorten the transfer case, and no reason to replace the output shaft.

Manufacturing costs money. Rubicon Express probably makes ten times as many of their SYE units per machining run than CALMINI will make for a prodtuct with such small demand. If you don't want to pay for it, don't buy it.

While I don't expect you to read the jeep boards like I used to when I had a jeep, There is merit behind my ghetto fab rating. Rubicon Express made the above mentioned system for the NP231 and there were a lot of users who performed the whole "hack and tap" proceedure. There were also a disproportionate amount of jobs that resulted in excessive vibrations due to an improper hack (not related to the Calmini system) OR the lack of absolute center between the two parts (potentially related). Rubicon Express is well known in the Jeep comunity as a quality manufacturer, and I almost went that route despite the many many warnings. Why...because at least it was affordable given the fact you have to purchase a new drive shaft to complete the system. As there are to date, no people to use and rate the quality, my ghetto fab rating may be preemptive. I made it based upon the design, and its spotty history in the Jeep comunity. I still stand behind my overpriced rating. I do not dispute the quality of other Calmini products, and realize that thier prices are higher for a given item due to quantities sold. In this case, I suspect the price is inflated more by the lack of an alternative than quantities required to make a profit. The complexity, and amount of proceedures required to manufacture this part are minimal. This is good as simpler is better and usually cheaper. The type of machinery required are already in the facility (based upon what is needed to manufacture other items they make). Where is the $100 per part premium comming from? I just don't see it.

10 years from now, when there are 2,000,000 Xterras driving around North America, and the market is full of used ones being built as rock crawling rigs I'm sure CALMINI will lower the price.

So, let me get this straight. You cut off a portion of the output shaft and tap it? Or just tap the output shaft to bolt the eliminator on?

Here's a rough approximation of what is involved with installing an SYE. Though our shaft doesn't stick out of the t-case like the one shown, you get the idea.
http://home.kendra.com/jlaker/jeep/RE-Lift/cv.htm

Our shaft is more recessed in the transfer case than the Jeep ones, so I don't think you could cut much of it.

So, I'd assume from those pics, and the limited protusion of the X shaft (sounds like a porno movie scene) that the only thing needed for the Calmini kit would be to drill and tap the hole.

That doesn't seem like it would be that would be much of a hack thing. Seems better than the cutting off of stuff. Then, if no cutting is needed, then the later problems with the Jeep version wouldn't be experienced at all, since the factory cut at the end of the shaft is squared off already. I'd pay an extra $100 for that. No problem.

And, if needed, it would be reversable, since nothing got cut off. Definately worth the extra money. The Jeep version isn't reversable without replacement of the shaft.

I do not believe you cut the X version. THe Jeep version was cut to shorten the length, and the subsequent load on the shaft. When you add a CV joint type drive shaft, it weighs a bit more, and the weight is further away from the transfer case. Not an issue with the X, but an issue with the jeeps. There was a proceedure where you would disconnect both axles, and run the TC in 4 Lo while holding a blade to it. It was the second best, and most utilized way to do the RE hack and tap. There were a few who did it that way, and still had a wobble. They actually removed the shaft from the TC, took it to a machine shop, had it properly squared off, and reinstalled it. The wobble lessened, but persisted. There was an issue with the RE flange not haveing the exact same center as the shaft. This seems almost impossible, but was the case. Again RE is widely reguarded as a quality manufacturer in that community, so I don't think it was due to lack of quality control. Time will tell with the Calmini kit. As mentioned earlier, I do like the idea of its reversability.

Well, the guys that did the custom front drive shaft for me wanted the flanges and everything that the shaft would bolt to. They guarenteed the balance (barring abuse ) for me.

I'm wondering, if the folks having that problem could do the same. They'll have to use the bolts in the same place, everything like that, but it's unbelievable how smooth it can be.

It looks like you do cut the shaft a little after all: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=244310