I moved the exhaust (Again) to make room for the tank set-up....worked out great, the tank is now tucked up nice and high, under the Driver's Side gully, (Where the OEM Exhaust USED to run...) plus, its skidded, just in case...plus the new stainless exhaust isn't all rusty and filling the cabin with CO, etc.

The new less restrictive exhaust makes the X so fast, I didn't even have time to notice a difference.

The tank used to be where the spare tire was...but that was too low a hanging fruit.

The new exhaust takes up way less room than the OEM one, and is tucked up higher than the stock set-up as well.

OK - A few pics....


View of Tank from rear


Tank from side


View of tank from front


View down the D-side gully


New exhaust, side view


New muffler


Muffler detail


Bumper mounted QD for the OBA

tj, looks good! what exhaust setup/brand did you go with?

Magnaflow SUV, 2.5" pipes.

Throw a balloon or rubber over that QD.......

TJ,

It does look good. Those lines are pretty close to the exhaust. You may want to try exiting out of the tank with a 90 degree brass fiting to get the plastic lines away from the heat.

Looks great TJ, well done.

The pressure switch wires are not as close as they look in the pic.

On the other hand...I missed a zip tie last night, and on the way to work...a section of air line bowed out and hit the cross over pipe, and got a pencil point sized hole melted into it.



I used a tire patch and a worm screw patch to patch it, and its been holding thus far.

wat does the tank do...?

are you serious?
The tank holds air, which is pressurized by an air compressor. The tank and air compressor now supplies air to whatever needs it...tire inflation, ARB air locker(s), water wings, etc...you know, the essentials that need air

wow.

Overview:

Air - A compressor to supply pressurized air, a tank to collect and store it, air lines to take pressurized air from the compressor to the tank, and from the tank to the bumper mounted quick dissconnect fitting...any air accessory (Tire filling, etc...) can be connected to the fitting.

Electric - Power for the compressor is routed via a pressure sensing switch in the tank (In the pics show it on the side, with wires coming off of it)...so that the compressor is kicked on when the pressure in the tank drops, and turned off again when the tank is re-presssurized.



Steel - Oh, and the pic wa taken of the naked QD, it normally has a cap on it to keep the weather out.

Hey TJ, I noticed your shock boots are on the topside. When I installed my 3''SL from SLR I was unsure which way yo mount the shocks,so I called Bilstien, the said it realy doesent matter bu the "best" way is where the writing can be read :rolleyes: . So I did and that puts my boots bottom side. IS there any truth to what I was told.

By the way nice set up.

For the 5100 series Bils, it doesn't matter...but depending upon the shock's valving, it matters for some other shocks...so you need to know what kind of valving a particular shock has to know if it can be can up or can down.

TJ - The setup looks great!! Is the heat from the exhaust going to affect the pressure of the tank? I would hate for that thing to overpressurize on the trail or anywhere for that matter. I would also recommend a heat shield for the cabling. It may not seem that close but you would be surprised. Great job though!!! really top notch. I can't wait to check it out this weekend at paragon. Are you going to Nor'Easter?

Thanks!

The heat does warm the tank a bit...I do have an over pressure/blow off valve on the top of the tank though, just in case. I let the pump run manually to over pressure it, and the valve did blow off the excess, so it does work.

I may get around to some heat shielding, but its been raining like every freekin day...and I'm burried at work....so maybe a while yet.

Yeah, I'll be at the Nor' Easter...Thursday night to Sunday....That's one I'd never miss.

Nice setup...

Is that really a valve hanging off the bottom? Or a QD?

Its a ball valve...a condensate drain.





The QD is on the front bumper.

Seemingly stupid question...

Why go through the trouble of having a skid plate put on the tank, if you're just going to have that crap hanging down waiting to be knocked off... As soon as that's knocked off on something, there goes the air tank. No sense having a skid at that point.

Just my $0.02.

Yeah - I know. :rolleyes:

The flush drain valve I was GOING to use didn't work...I have another angle iron piece that I'm going to add under there as a protective tent for this valve, or a smaller profile substitute, when I get around to it.

On the plus side, that valve is hanging HIGHER than the stock exhaust used to, way up in the gully under the driver's side...above the frame rails, etc....so, its really not THAT vulnerable to start with, its protected from breakover angle impacts, and it would take a dedicated protruding rock or something that could go up through there, but hadn't hit the stuff in front of, or behind it...a freak shot.

So - it COULD happen, but isn't likely enough to make me nuts.



I just haven't had the time I needed to get it all together...home-life/work's been crazy.

It will run at the Nor' Easter like that...I loaned my welder to a bud to fix his Pathy, and won't be able to mess w/it again until after the Nor' Easter sometime.



C'est la vie

You could always just tap the tank at an angle, and when it's time to drain, just park on a hill.

lol

Yeah, I'm sticking to the built-in ports for now.



I think the angle iron will be OK...anything that gets up that high has snaked between the D side shock, the frame rail, the drive shaft and the exhaust...if it wants me that bad, screw it.



Plan C, if I can get another flush valve, I have a large rock washer like donut that will protect it...and I'll go back to my original Plan A.