Ok, I know I always ask the XOC members questions or their opinions on what may or may not be simple decisions on my part. What can I say I respect your opinions, and it gives me a pile of people to bounce ideas off about somthing we all love. So I appoligize in advance.

First I was not sure where to place this as far as the topic is concerened. Since suspension is part of the question I figured this location would work.

Its almost time for me to replace my tires and I want to go bigger, possibly as big as 285/70/17, which I THINK are approx. 32.71''. So I thought a suspension lift would be in order not just for the tires, but I think Im to that "point". Now the "rub", Im not ready for the SAS, it would be nice but I just cant justify it YET. If I go with an IFS lift that would be $1500, roughly, including a steering system, and thats being generous. The prob. is when SAS time comes I will have to eat the $1500 for the IFS.

I could also go with the T-case gears, which from what I have seen and heard take the X to a new level.

SO there it is, regardless Im going to need new tires. I have already got 2'' schakles and cranked the the T-bars so I may be able to fit the tires.

Thoughts and opinions appreciated.

I think 285/75/17 would be bigger than that...

285/70/17 would be about what you are thinking (32.8-ish)...equivalent to a 33" diameter tire...kind of a 33x11/17.

You will rub on compression even if you fit for street driving unless you extend the bumpstops or do a BL....for 33's...a 2" BL would be OK.

I would not commit to a SAS until you have familiarized yourself with off roading that gets more hairy than the IFS can handle...'cause to get the SAS, plus a new axle, and all that install/downtime to get it all on and working together will be substantial (thousands more than you have above...)

If you add a 2" BL to the T-Bar crank/shackle lift, you might be fine with the 33's...

I have a 3" SL and 2" BL...and its the 2" BL that does the most good when working the articulation.

I am running 305/70/16's...which are 33" diameter with tread width a bit more than a 33x12.5/15 tire.

I like the extra flotation a fat tire gives....and they fit with a few turns of the turn stops to keep the tread blocks from nibbling the steering, etc.



The low gears would make a huge difference in crawling control, and you could keep them...so if you have the $, they would be awsome.



I'd see about getting skid plates/sliders/armor...a 2" BL, keep the T-Crank/Shackle SL, the Low Gears...and the 33's...and having fun with that for a while until you have the $/downtime, and the feel for what will really work in the terrain you actually wheel on.

So - All in all, rather than wait and wait to be able to 'froad with a sudden mad build-up...you could do it NOW, and gain more experience/fun, etc....and focus on what you NEED later, based on the experience you get NOW.

I'm not exactly sure that I saw a question in there.... but I'll give my opinion anyway:

If you're considering a SAS in the future and don't want to potentially eat the cost of the suspension lift, why not consider a body lift?

I just did a 3" on mine:


The 2" is supposed to be easier - though it doesn't include some stuff - like bumper relocation brackets.

The body lift is better for fitting larger tires anyway - since the wheel well is ALWAYS 2" higher (or 3 in my case) than it was stock (the point being that the sus lift doesn't stop the wheel from stuffing up in there - unless you've got bumpstop extensions). Plus the BL is really cheap.

There are definitely some downsides to a BL - I'm sure someone who disapproves will go into them - but I'm a fan!

I eventually plan to do the sus lift, too... but money is always an issue

Dammit - TJ beat me to the punch... guess I'm just a slow typist

I suppose I did fail to get to the point of the issue. My question is should I go ahead and do the IFS+steering mod. to fit larger tires, or stay with a smaller tire (31''), or go with the T-case gears?

I was already leaning away from the SAS, for reasons that TJ mentioned.

I do have rock sliders, front skid and an ARB. Some of the ideas have already be addressed.

I guess its unclear what you are actually asking...

Are you saying you have three choices, and you need to pick one of them?

1. Larger tires and associated steering upgrade, with a BL to make them fit.

2. Low gearing.

3. Stay with 31's until all money for full on build-up available.

We recommend which above choice you should pursue?

Is this correct?



If so, the above are already corectly prioritized.

That is correct TJ. My ability to be unclear and often times vague must be why my wife always gives a blank stare.

So your opinion is that I should forego the IFS lift and just do a BL?

yeah - If you have the 1.5" crank job, and a BL, you could use the 33's (See notes above about actual diameter/tire sizes)...and a steering upgrade would give enough durability.

Just keep in mind that the BL will NOT raise your ARB... you'll have to get creative on that part.

One guy (think it was TJ, actually) posted pics of how he just redrilled the factory frame horns 1.5" higher to move it up.

My plan is to have a friend weld some blocks on top of the frame horns that I can attach my bumper to (for the time being (in the pic) I have it lifted with the front bumper relocation brackets that come in the 3" kit - but that is NOT a good long-term solution... WAY too weak)

I have been told by both Shrockworks and Calmini that having a body lift with a winch is asking for major trouble due to the weakened front frame with bumper relocation brackets. The winch uses a levering method that will put to much force on body lift relocation brackets. You'd have to do some major welding and steel reinforcement to be workable. If anyone has done this please post pics and comments.

Yep...it was me.



I also welded in another bracket onto the frame horns across the top, and tied the Shrock's front mount into it...the Shrocks side frame mounts I just relocated ~1.5" higher on the frame horns.

I then welded a tied V brace between the frame horns from the bottom to control torque twisting.





Yeah...I originally planned to leave the 2" gap just to preserve strength...but the availability of a snap-on welder was too much, when added to the ribbing I was getting about it being too ugly, etc.



Raising the location of the winch (Which is what happens if you raise the bumper its on...) increases the length of the lever acting upon the frame horns (Distance from winch to frame horns).

On a straight pull...this would push the horns down, and put the side mount bolts in a shear position...on an off angle pull, say to the driver's side, the winch might attempt to twist its Passenger side foward and up, and its Driver's side to the rear and down...the bumper itself braces the horns against moving towards/away from each other (Slides 3/8" steel plates between them)...but does not lessen the torque on them as a whole.

The resistance to frontal or glancing impact is also compromised in the same way...if you hit something...it puts the side mounting bolts in shear position...so adding front bracket points to resist motion from the front and rear was important.

ATFfrontier, I heard the same thing about the winch and bumper prob. if the bumper is relocated.

In your case, if I was planning on a sas in the NEAR future, as in going to do it, not thinking about doing it after winning the lottery, I would get somthing like AC a-arms, idler arm brace - (not the full package, just the brace) and ac's 3pack for the rear. the ac 3pack (mine at least) have me close to ~4.5" lift. I ended up removing the lower leaf, and making it a 2pack, now close to ~3.75" lift.. keep the stock tbars. you are spending around $355 on the front, that you can sell the arms later and get a few bucks back.. the rear after a sas will need to be alot higher then 3" to look right.. the ac 3pack and shackles *should* do it.. you might still need more, don't know..
I got the rancho 9k's for front & rear, so next year when I sas I will be out the a-arms, and front shocks ~$500.. For a $1 a day for having the 3" lift before the sas.. I can live with that..

Cool. Thanks TJ. So you've not noticed any bending or twisting then when the winch is in use?

I haven't noticed any twisting, or any movement at all, but I haven't had a really hard pull I had to do either....pretty much just the truck's weight as opposed to getting an F-350 out of sucking mud, etc.



I plan to wait for some buddies to get hopelessly mired in the Pine Barrens in a few weeks, and give it a more severe test pulling them from the acidic bog swamp....that's a Warn 9.5xp on there, and I have drop shackles, tree straps and a snatch block in case things get really hairy.



(I'll probably end up the only one to get stuck...)