I thought we were talking about the Bronco's???

I guess I missed the part when we switched from talking about the '78-'79 Bronco to talking about the truck series.

My apologies.

I was looking to see what they charge for the shaft. I'm in the parts business so basically the point for the whole thread was for A. Me to see which I could build myself cheapest B. for me to maybe get some sales from you guys j/k but not really and C. see if I can help anyone out on XOC since my prices are probably better than anywhere else.

No worrys bro.. I get mixed up too!

Here is the outer section of a pre-78 with one side ground off..

That is purrty, but I cannot do that since mine are cast. I am confident that I can get some custom fabbed brackets welded to fit the wedges and throw the coil/shock mounts on there too.

Thanks for the info Grandpa and porsche.

Well if that’s the case would be nice to have a bit more clearance at the diff say like 18” with some Volvo axles.

Hey! That's my axle!

The Duff/Cage arms will flex out 15inch travel shocks. Not bad for technology with 40 years of testing. I know the 3 link is the "in" thing to do right now. However those still hold thier own.

True that, Grandpa. I did the math and the cost would come out about the same for 3-link vs. longer radius arms.

I would save mucho $$$ in fabricator cost doing the radius arms.

That is a pretty sick flexy Bronco right there.

Mid-80's 6-lug LP Waggy 44 with 4.88s, ARB, Warn Premiums and Hi-Steer already installed.

900 bones.

You sellin your axle, Jeff?

I'm actually surprised what you all paid for junkyard axles..expensive. I wonder how many had the diffs blown up...I'm going to be buying some Dana 44 and/or Dana 60 front axles soon for a decent price. I'm wondering if I can get that to fit but probably way too wide.

The junkyard axles aren't the expensive ones...the expensive ones are the axles that have already been pulled from the yard (run between $200-$400) or the pre-built ones ($500-$1200 depending on the parts used).

What are you getting your 44 and 60 for?

Well Basically what you are buying is the housing if it is a stock axle right out from a Wagoneer. Here are the issues with the stock axle.
* Ring & Pinon will not match the Xterra Ring and Pinon, so you have to buy new ones (ring and pinons in the waggys was less than 3.7 you need 4.56 or above).
* The carrier in the stock axle will NOT work with the new Ring & Pinon (stocks came with a 3.73 & down carrier so you need the 3.92 and up carrier).
* Most of the bearings and stuff will be easy to replace while having it pulled apart to regear so you just as well replace, bearings, seals, calipers and the disks if they have any significant wear.

It comes down to all the parts that could be damaged need to be replaced. And no WAY am I buying a new D44 $$$$$$$$$$$, and then still have to regear.

I looked around really hard to find a built up axle, Jeff got a smokin deal on his.

And like Tyler said... go pull the axle yourself... save $$$$.

Me and GrandpaX ran into a junkyard one day. We walked through the gate coming in and the guy was like WTF I was carrying a CO2 tank and air tools, then we went to town and pulled 4 axles, 2 sets of shafts a PS box and 2 sets of cams. Under 3.5 hours or so.

So I should be good w/ a Jeep Wagoneer housing w/ D44 3.92 + diff and 4.56 Dana ring and pinion? Work is slow right now because it's summer and I was going to start building it this week..I can do the whole setup for under 200 (everything new) because of my line of work but I don't want to build it and then find out it's not going to work..

You may have said somewhere before but what is the gearing on your rear NIssan axle?

99.9% sure it's a 4.90. The Dana 44 diff I have is supposed to work w/ anything 3.92 and higher.

You are going to need a new Ring & Pinon set. You need to be within 1% difference from front to rear on the R&P. 4.90 & 4.56 you are at a 7% difference. So basically the front and rear driveshafts would be spinning at a slightly different speed eventually (sooner) there will be a failure in the drivetrain, Ujoints, Driveshaft, Tcase somewhere something WILL snap.

You need to get a set of 4.88 R&P to run with your rear axle. That is only a 0.41% difference.

I'm actually going to print that out..I'll run hollander tomorrow to see what I can get that out of. I also have to measure the front driveshaft. I may have a new front made for a spare. I can't find OE nissan truck parts for a decent price anywhere. It's easier to go to the builders..

Just answerin' the question:

Right...I'm a lil slow some days