After seeing this thread I checked mine out last night... It was at 20 degrees
. We backed it down to 15... will see if it makes a power/mileage difference. (it's a 12mm wrench by the way)
Oh, and we verified that the computer ASSUMES that you have the timing set correctly. No matter how we turned the distributor, when the engine was idling, the OBD-II port said that it was at 15 degrees. That means that if you don't have it set right then all of the computer controlled stuff (fuel/air mixture etc) will be off!
Oh, a quick explanation on what a timing light is and how it works for those who have never done this (I never had
):
A timing light is basically strobe light - physically it looks kind of like a pistol. The one we used had two alligator clips that you hooked to the battery for power and a third clip that you clamp over the 1st spark plug wire (just like a clamp-on ammeter)... once it is hooked up, you pull the trigger and it starts flashing every time the #1 spark plug fires.
Here's a pic:
So, you take the flashing gun and point it at the harmonic balancer as the engine is idling (the FSM said to unplug the throttle position sensor for this test - which we did).
The strobe effect from the timing light makes the balancer appear to freeze once per rotation right as the #1 cylinder is firing... so you can see the little notches that are cut into the balancer and how they are lining up with the little metal pointer that sticks out of the motor. In my case, the pointer was over the 5th and last notch on the right - indicating that the plug was firing 20 degrees before TDC. So, we loosened the bolt that holds the distributor down and twisted it a little bit while still watching the timing marks with the gun. We experimented with twisting the distributor both directions and figured out which way made the timing marks move toward the right - and when the arrow seemed to line up pretty well with the 4th notch (15 degrees) we tightened the bolt back down, plugged the TPS plug back in, and called it done