Is it really that sensitive a deal that the torque releasing from that one bolt will require a new gasket?? - or is it just that you're being super anal (which I certainly wouldn't blame you for)?

New pictures up on site ...

It was about the 11th bolt out of the 13 that twisted and broke on me. So that means that 10 of them were already at 84 pounds or so. That's about two-thirds of the way to a final torque. The material on these head gaskets is very soft. When you take the old heads off you'll notice that residual gasket material is stuck to the head and block. So, it looks like to me that the design depends on the material being compressed completely from new.

My experience fixing cars comes from repairing 100's of cars in my youth, 20+ different makes, so I learned that I don't want the car that I worked on to come back - I was just happier that way.

Anal implies that some rational thought has been left out of the evaluation process, so no I wouldn't say I'm being anal on this .... This car has bitten me at almost every step of the way in this repair. So I think I am being wise given some of the lack of quality parts used by Nissan.

Besides, why would I want to save a few bucks at this stage?!

Great writeup. I had to do my drivers side headgasket so I know how bad it is. Good luck.

Unbelievable write-up and website.
Thanks so much for taking the time to do this.
As well as many others, I have to change my driverside headgasket, exhaust manifolds, knock sensor, and timing belt service.
At least now I know exactly what I'm getting into.

Please keep this site up for a while. I'm slowly accumulating parts for the rebuild.

What was the grand total for the cylinder head work and new valves?

I assume that there were no cracks.
Thanks!

It's my pleasure to share this with everyone. Perhaps when it is done the site admin here will grab the files and host it on their server.

I am not aware that there is a problem with the driver side head gasket ... I would never just do one side only. You have to rip the car apart anyway.

Not to sound like a dink, but the cost to me is not a big deal, so I do not have all of my receipts at hand. And remember, I have to have everything shipped to Hawaii by air. But here is what I think it is so far. BTW, Courtesy Nissan has been good getting me my parts, you can cost shop online with them. My local dealer can burn in hell as far as I am concerned and I will not spend $$ at their mickey mouse establishment.

1. Complete timing belt kit with water pump, drive belts, etc. $285
2. New exhaust manifold, $125
3. Complete gasket kit, new water hoses, extra nuts and bolts, smog hoses, all new valves and seals, etc. $525
4. All new head bolts, washers and head gasket. $275
5. Fluids, oil, filters, coolant, etc. $100
6. Tools, new inch-pound torque wrench, crank pulley puller, tap, etc. $125
7. Head repair $350
8. Cat stud removal $120

So that's like $1905 with tools I needed and all. My rough budget was $1500. I'm sure things are a lot cheaper where you live, but remember, this is a very big repair. I can't believe that it would have been anything less than $3,500 at my dealer and I assure you they would NOT be doing such a thorough job.

So check that out ... If I had changed the timing belt at 60 months, I would have spent $400 tops AND I'd be driving the darn thing. Of course, I most likely would not have known about the cracked manifold ...

My heads were not cracked. Unless you've overheated the car, they usually will last a very long time.

This repair is not for everyone. You need to evaluate your skills and time honestly and be mentally prepared for the inevitable screw-ups. That's really the purpose for the web site ...


I can hardly wait to replace the clutch assembly and rear seal. hehehe.

I feel your pain.

I hydrolocked my '01, and after looking at what I'd have to go though to replace my over 100K engine's bent connecting rods, etc...considering it already had come due for the timing belt, etc....I just dropped in an Xterra engine from an '03 - with only 15K on it...that had conveniently rolled over for me earlier that week.



Thank GOD I have freinds who came over and knocked it out.

OK, somebody help me out here because I'm having trouble finding the part where the owner's manual says 5 years or 105,000 mi. I'm a little surprised that the timing belt fails before the mileage interval. I figured the boys over there at Nissan would've built in some 'safety factor' when they came up with that number. So I've got the book open here in front of me and on page 9-6 it says to replace the spark plugs and the timing belt at 105,000 miles and this is repeated again on p. 9-8. I don't see anything about a time interval..?

oh ya, forgot to mention I'm going to print off the stuff you posted along with that that other write-up mentioned earlier and tape them up in the garage when I finally get around to gettin 'er done. lot's of great stuff - thanks guys!

What is hydrolocked? I've never heard of that term ...

Yeah, if this baby was a Chevy, I'd probably have just purchased a crate motor from GM. Mmmmmm ... more horsepower ....

You know, you should NOT solely rely on retards like me for this kind of info (or anyone else here). Take your VN number down to your local Nissan dealer and have them run the details for your vehicle. I'm pretty sure that when to change stuff is in that data base.

Any part on a car can (and often does) fail before suggested intervals. The manufacturer is only on the hook if it is covered AND it fails within the warraty period anyway - there is nothing I or anyone else can do about a part failing before this suggested time period
(excluding lemon laws). Of course it does play in to my next car buying decision.

I wrote Nissan about my dilema and all I got was a sorry Charlie message on my phone machine who mumbled on for a few minutes - nothing in writing from them.

When you suck up water into a running motor through the intake.... it's bad, mmmmkay?

Happens all the time to sport car folks with low cold air intakes.

Air is compressible...water is not...

When the pistons run into the water...it stops them cold...rods bend, stuff like that.

Updated site and pictures ... Please take note that I had misread the torque values for my head bolts, that's why one broke on me - way too tight. As the carpenters say, measure twice, cut once.

I'm really trying to get her back on the road this weekend ...

All went well today. After six weeks, I'm back on the road.

awesome

Thanks Kaiser, I've appreciated your posts and the info from this site.

My 2000 Xterra just turned 108K miles. I just finished changing the timing belt myself. I also changed the Idler bearing, water pump, Thermostat, small hose above the Thermostat, cam seals, crank seal, radiator hoses and all belts. I bought all the parts online at (parts@woodmennissan.com) and took one full day to do the work. I was shocked that the old belt looked like new even under a bright light and reviewing the factory service manual on how to inspect the timing belt. The Idler bearing also spun freely and again seemed fine. I guess I was shocked that all the parts I replaced looked very serviceable but I was still glad I changed all the parts out. The Xterra has been the most reliable vehicle I have ever owned, and not even a 10 cent item on the vehicle needs to be replaced. I put new shocks on about 95K and have flushed the auto transmission twice, first at 50K, then again at 98K. I change oil every 3K miles and only use Nissan oil and air filters. I am very picky about preventive maintenance. I run Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas tank every 3 months or so. I installed NGK Iridium spark plugs at about 70K miles. The engine has never used oil and looking down the oil filler cap the cam shaft looks as shinny as new. Taking good care of the Xterra has paid off and I have no intention of getting rid of it anytime in the near future.

Pilot, you've had a good experience with your truck, awesome.

I too have taken good care of mine and I really have enjoyed the truck. I would not have put this $2k in to it using Nissan parts if I had not thought it worthy of the fixes. I would buy another one for sure.

My experiences with the cheap parts differ though.

* Over the last 7 years I've had to have the air conditioner fixed at least three times at the dealer for cracked pipes and failed electrical sensors. I run the a/c all year long here.

* I have various rusted screws and body parts. The underside front of the hood is really bad, drivers side door (two small spots), front sway bar, skid pad retaining bolts are all rusting. But I live on an island in the middle of the Pacific. :-)

* The electrical switch on the drivers side door that operates my electric windows failed.

Anyway, I just ordered the idler pulleys to see if some of the whining noises go away. And of course, it died on me Saturday at the shopping mall giving me quite a scare - my five year old battery gave out. :p

Damn that sucks. Glad you got your X repaired. I swapped out my timing belt a while ago. The only thing I noticed was the tentioner pulley bearing was showing a bit of wear. It spun freely, but it seemed a bit rough, like some of the grease packing was gone. Didn't grind or make noise though. Otherwise the belt itself was fine.