Cool! A setup that appears to work without breaking the bank

Just a tip I've used many times when dealing with tight nuts and bolts. Buy a metric tap and die set for the size nuts and bolts you are having trouble with. ALWAYS run the tap into the nut and the die over the threads before forcing them together!

If the nuts got too hot to touch while forcing them on then the threads were deformed. I would get new nuts before installing the tie rod adjustors. Also be aware that new plated nuts and bolts often have burrs and plating flashing on them. I always run the tap/die over everything before assembly.
Hell I still have the original bolts in my front skid plate! I just run the tap into the bolt hole and the die over the 6mm bolts everytime I take it off
Great info on this mod guys, I will keep lurking and reading until I can afford one

Just finished the install. Well, kinda. I really screwed the toe and don't even want to drive it on the freeway to get to the alignment...it's THAT bad! I'm going to fix that tomorrow.

Aside from a few other stupid problems along the way, the install went well and the system is nice. Definately will get pictures and more details up later.

I will say that I ended up setting the center link somewhere between Calmini's number and what other folks have been doing. My tie rods seem to be about equal in length; they are both just too tight. Will get a proper measurement tomorrow when I'm under there again.

Then it sounds like the measurements that everyone else got must be pretty darn close. If you went between the two and you have excessive toe in, then you didn't go quite far enough. Let us know how things turn out (measurement wise) once you re-adjust tomorrow.

I think the centerlink is about right. The steering wheel is almost perfectly on center and the tie rods are about the same length. They are just too tight. I already went out and loosened both sides up a little bit and the truck drove much better. When I came home it was all over the road and very dangerous to drive, IMO. Will try and get measurements tomorrow.

UPDATE: I toed the right front out a bit more today so both tie rods are the same length and the steering wheel is perfectly straight. Truck is driving great, steering wheel is perfectly on-center, and it doesn't pull or anything.

Measurements are as follows:

Centerlink center of zerk to center of zerk, 30-7/8".

Left tie rod link, 5" including nuts.

Right tie rod link, 5" including nuts.

I will get a proper alignment tomorrow. Wonder how close it will be?

I just finished installing the kit and WOW what a differance. It is nice to be able to move the steering wheel and actually have the wheels move.

My stock steering was so loose that it was frightening.

I did the same trick and did a measurement equal to the distance from pitman arm to idler arm. I did an basic alignment using a tape measure and all seems to be doing well.

One less thing to worry about when off-roading (not to mention one less thing on the check list of things to do for goneMOAB)

any bumpsteer issues anyone? less or more than stock. In the Calmini ad it says that this setup is longer (the CL) than stock so it reduces the angles, but it seems it would do the exact opposite? thanks

I have not seen an increase in bump steer over the stock steering (and I am no longer running a steering stablizer with the Calmini system)

Sounds like you may have some other things going on? Do you check your power steering hoses/fluid for leaks? Doesn’t really seem normal/typical of a worn CL from my experience.

Jeff K,

Bump steer has been less for me compared to stock with this SS. The CL length is actually the same as stock 30 5/8” according to the install instructions, although I setup mine up longer for a few reasons. The CALMINI tie-rod adjusters are longer than stock

thanks for the quick reply you guys are great I ordered one today for my SC CC Frontier.

Brian.. I was being a little over the top.. I was refering to the 2" of "play" that I did have with the stock steering which was causing my steering to be a little on the non responsive side.

:-)

Does anyone know the torque spec for the huge nut on the pitman arm. My new arm doesn't seem to fit onto the shaft as high as the old one did. The instructions from Calmini didn't address any torque specifications.

-Nate

Make sure you have the splines lined up then let loose a 500# gorilla on it. As you tighten the nut the arm will move up (it is tapered)

From the 2000 ESM, it appears that on the stock equipment the pitman nut is 235-265 N.m (24-27 kg.m, 174-195 ft.lb).
A 500# gorilla sounds about right.

Mine didn't either and it looks like the pictures in the beginning of this thread show the same thing. I took mine to the point where my impact wrench wasn't turning it and then tried with a breaker bar to keep turning it. After I put a stripe with a Mark-a-lot down the arm, washer and nut to see if it moves.

The pitman arm will not go up as far as the stock one. That is by design.

Yep. I asked Steve about it when I installed mine and he said the same thing as Ian.

Has anyone received a steering system recently? I ordered mine on Dec 26th and just called today, the latest date for possible shipment is Feb 11th.

This waiting is killing me!!

Just finished installing a Calmini steering system for XID and I must say that I'm VERY impressed with the simplistic design and beefy material in this setup. He's got his torsion bars turned up but still running stock a-arms and the tie rod assemblies are running just about level. The centerlink definately needs to be set at the 31-3/16" as reported first by Aero Steve. Thanks for that info Steve.

Just got back from the initial test run with the new steering.

I was very nice. Now it is all covered with mud and ice. The Xterra had fun with 3 jeeps and an old bronco. I think that they did not believe the capabilities of the vehicle. I was not laughed out by any of them today.

I'll leave the truck dirty for a couple days. I needed a good mid-winter run.

Just waiting for gears......

Todd