okay fellas, here are the pics and the writeup. I don't have a lot of time to write this (at work), so I'll just cover the wiring of the head unit and leave you guys to wire the input jack and switch.
you will need:
(1) basic understanding of soldering and wiring
(1) philips screwdriver, mid-sized.
(1) needlenose pliers
(1) x-acto knife, pref with a flat blade and a pointed one.
(1) soldering iron w/ a fairly small tip (30w pref wattage, 15 could be okay.)
(1) roll of solder, I use .015 dia 1.0 oz silver.
(1) roll of electrical tape
(1) hot glue gun w/ a refill
(1) input jack, could be female headphone jack, guitar jack, whatever I suppose)
(1) 3PDT ON-ON MINI-TOGGLE SWITCH, order it online.
you should have (*not required):
(1) continuity tester and multimeter. this is to test your solder points and measure the volt loss in the connections.
(1) a cup of coffee
I will write up descriptions, instructions and warnings below the posted pictures FYI.
take all of the screws out of the metal backing (should be 10 or 11, large red highlight section) and the 1 screw out of the little ribbon access cover (the small highlight section above)
The ribbon will need to be removed for modding. the top of the ribbon can just be pulled out with minimal force, I would almost use a toothpick and place it in the top fold to pull it out. the bottom contact point has a small clasp insert that will need to be pulled up with a fingernail before it lets go, you'll see. make a mental note of how much of the metal contacts are showing when it's completely plugged in, this will help you later.
gently fold it down flat, bottom contacts facing up.
this is where it gets interesting. MAKE SURE IT IS ORIENTED EXACTLY AS ABOVE! using your flat xacto blade, cut through the first four wires as above (incision is the red line, wire #1 is a dummy) I can't stress how important it is that you don't go wild and cut into the 5th wire.
okay, so you just put the flat blade on the four wires, make sure it wasn't going to cut into the 5th wire, rocked it back and forth until it was definitely cut all the way through.
* this might be a good time to plug in the soldering iron and the hot glue gun.
now the pins will need to be separated from their front and back protective layer. I colored the wires GREEN where they will need to be pulled up and exposed. it won't be pretty, but this is where I use the pointed xacto blade, prodded at the end of each wire until I get an edge, grab onto just the wire end with the needlenose pliers while trying to pin down the protective backing (I used my fingernail), and pull up and away from the incision. if you pull them out in the exact sequence above, they should look just like the picture, just wild and pointing up.
IMPORTANT, do not bend them too many times! seriously just pull them up with the needlenose and once they are pulled to the point highlighted in green, just stop.
carefully cut away the extra plastic backing, then fold the wires down and out, don't cut the wires you may need every centimeter to solder it. if you bend the wires more than like three times they will break and you will be SOL, so just fold it down once preferably not crunched up on itself, fold it at 45/90 onto itself.
hot glue everything in place, leaving enough of the bare wires to solder them.
tape the ribbon down, tape the wires you are going to use for the switch (I used some CAT5e network cable, but you could use some 20guage copper wire from radioshack) it is important you position and pin down everything exactly as you'd like to solder it.. this will help.
NOTICE the wires mirror from where you cut them (duh) but seriously. L-GRND-R ... R-GRND-L
make sure you note which wires come in from the CD module and which ones are going to the main board, I used the dark wires for CD-OUT and light wires for MAINBOARD-IN.
CONTINUED >>>>>