Hey good catch. PM me your e-mail and I can send you the files. They're rough but easy to edit and make drawings for if you wanna take 'em to a shop.

Hey, Paul. your switches are awesome...just from an electrical newbie though, how did you wire from the interior fuse block to the switches and do you have any pics? thanks.

I ran a heavy 8 guage cable from the battery to a fuse and then to a fuse box that I mounted up above the driver's left leg in the area where the stock satellite receiver would have been mounted. That's the power source for a pair of relays.

From the ignition controlled cigerette lighter I ran a wire to each of the two switches. They feed a +12VDC control signal to each of the relays.

When the ignition is on +12VDC lights the switch. When the switch is turn on that voltage runs to the relay causing it to operate and closing the armature which connects the battery power up to the lights.

are the relays required and what is their function?

Yes you need relays, it performs the function of a switch without the actual switch having to carry the entire current going to the lights. So the switch only has a low 12V current that triggers the relay, and the relay is what actually switches the high-current line going to the lights.

Without relays, you'd be running way too much current through the switches.

Ok, this is making a little more sense. So if I were doing the setup you have, then I'd have about 18 guage wire going b/t the switch and relays. Then once the switch is turned on, the relays would activate charge coming from the battery.

But I assume I wouldn't need a relay if I was just putting something small in, like if I wanted a switch to control a small interior light or something like that. Is that correct?

thanks for your help.

The switches are rated for a bunch of power but I'm just not comfortable with using them with that much power. The heavy gauge wires run to the relay and then up to the lights - the wire from the switch to the light relay is light gauge. They make a whole lot of sense with bumper mounted lights where running heavy gauge wire into the cab is saved.

The measure of load also known as electral power or "work" performed by a device is watts. You want to match the wattage of the wires, and switches to be greater than the load. The fuse should be just slightly more than the current requirement. With small 55 watt lights you can get by with a good toggle switch ... with 300 watts worth of light up your life pencil beams you can't.

Current in amps times voltage in volts is equal to watts.

so would you be interesting in making one of these for me with 4 cheap-o lights? if so, how much would you charge?

same here!

Not me. Too much like work.

Added a 1 x 3" aluminum tube to the rear of the light bar to mount an NMO mount for ham radio. I had another antenna mount but found that it stopped me from loading flat items on the roof rack - like sheets of plywood.