Wrapped up my CB Radio Install. I picked up a Cobra from Wally World for 59 bucks. All in all, it was a pretty easy install. It involved cutting a hole in the back of my lower pocket which I took my time with to get a nice clean cut with my dremel, and is mounted nice and secure now. I still have a space below where I can fit a few miscellaneous items.

If anyone wants pics displaying how I did the install, let me know and I'll post em..

Hey, that's exactly what I want to do! Can I see pictures of the install, plus any tips, advice, knowledge you could throw my way.... I have the same CB and looked into placing it there in my '04 but thought b/c of the computer or whatever it may be taht is behind the plastic it wouldn't be possible. You just made my day b/c I thought I was going to have to crowd the wife with an install in the place of the map holder locates on the right side of the center console. So when you get the chance, please post your pictures and anything else that you feel will be helpful. It looks great! Thanks!

I will warn you first, If you have the rockford fosgate setup, the amp was directly behind my pocket, but since I am not using it, I could remove it and had clearance for the CB.

I'll try to post pics and instructions later this evening..

Yeah, I guess that would make a difference..... hmmmmmm... Maybe I can move the amp to make it work.

Post the pics of the install.

Hey, if you removed your amp, what do you have powering the speakers? I see it is the RF system so what gives??? Secret mod ?

I think he has an aftermarket set-up, other than the hu... But, I could be wrong... I'm thinking of moving the amp if it's possible so that I can do this install and retain the stock stereo.

Looks good..

I did the same thing with my CB. But since mine looks bigger I had to remove the top half of the pocket.
Where did you put your antenna? I'm mounting mine through the plastic next to the rear bumper. I got a mount from a local CB shop and attached it using the bolts on the side of the bumper. Next I'm going to mark and drill a hole in the plastic for the antenna to pass though.

is that a DIN sized CB?

Yes, I am using aftermarkert amps so I dont need the factory anymore.

Moving the amp would definitely be a pain as the wires dont give you much room to move the amp somewhere else and its quite big.

The antenna is not permanently mounted yet, its just a cheapy magnet mount to get me started.

Its about din-size or so, I'll get the exact dimensions later for ya as well

I'll post pics of the install in about an hour or so when I get home from work..

EDIT: Happy 100th post to me

Heres how I did the install.

Step 1: Remove the dash panel and the lower panel below the radio. You also have to unscrew the center console and slide it back to get these out.

http://webpages.charter.net/mcarvalh/CB_Install/cbinstall1.jpg

Step 2: I had to remove the factory amp. Some trucks wont have this I assume. This is the hole that is left
http://webpages.charter.net/mcarvalh/CB_Install/cbinstall2.jpg

Step 3: Here is a pic of the amp removed to see the relative size that could be a problem when trying to mount in somewhere else. This comes out with 4 bolts and a little wiggling..

http://webpages.charter.net/mcarvalh/CB_Install/cbinstall3.jpg

Step 4: Checked the amount of clearance space I'll have now that the amp is gone....Plenty of room here now:

http://webpages.charter.net/mcarvalh/CB_Install/cbinstall4.jpg

Step 5: Remove the panel and mark of the hole where I will cut. I made it just wide enough, and had to enlarge it the second time around to make it work with the angle I'm mounting it at. I made it just big enough so it has some support on the bottom.

http://webpages.charter.net/mcarvalh/CB_Install/cbinstall5.jpg

Step 6: Made some measurements with a marker and drilled a hole in the side of the pocket. I can now screw the CB into the side using the supplied mounting screws.. I was lucky that the mounting holes happened to line up where I want the CB to be in the pocket.

http://webpages.charter.net/mcarvalh/CB_Install/cbinstall5b.jpg

Step 7: Tested out how it would look before wrapping it up. Looks good, and no clearance issues with the shifter or transfer case lever.

http://webpages.charter.net/mcarvalh/CB_Install/cbinstall6.jpg

Step 8: I grounded the Radio to a metal brace under the radio location. (Too much flash in the pic)

http://webpages.charter.net/mcarvalh/CB_Install/cbinstall8.jpg

Step 9: Wired up the CB to the factory radio wires. I think its green/red for ACC and red/yellow for 12V Constant.

http://webpages.charter.net/mcarvalh/CB_Install/cbinstall7.jpg

Thats pretty much it. The hardest part was cutting the pocket just right and lining up the holes in the side to screw into the radio from outside of the pocket. Its very sceure and doesnt move at all. If I did it again, I might consider angle it up a bit more, but i think its just fine as it is now, and I can easily replace that pocket piece if I ever sell the truck..

How did you install the antenna?? where did you route the coax?

I havent come up with a permanent mount for my antenna just yet. Right now I just tuck it under the seat until I go offraodingm and stick it on the roof. When I do get a permanent mount, I'll post pics of that...

I am about to install a two-way antenna on my X and figured I'd use this lip-mount type by Comet antennas. It looks like it'll go onto the top/side of the hatch door just fine.

http://www.cometantenna.com/pro_images/CP-5M.jpg

Shawn, let me know how you make out using that lip mount antenna. It looks like if you attach it to the top of the hatch, when you open the hatch, the mount will hit the top of the roof. Also, let me know how you routed the coax.

Thanks

I am thinking about using a u-bold around the roof rack using an antenna mount like this:


Since the roof rack tubes are aluminium and there are rubber and plastic feets holding it I plan to use a no-ground-plane thype of antenna. Since I won't need the ground, I plan to slide a piece of rubber hose on the u-bolt so it doesn't stratch the roof rack too bad. One could also put wing nuts instead of regular nuts to make it easy to add and remove. I haven't decided if I want it removeable or if I will install a fold down mount like this:


Either way, I have to figure out something or I will rip it off driving into the garage

I like that folding type of mount. Maybe some sort of u-bolt around the stock rack with a flat piece metal to mount the antenna. I think the problem is going to be how to route the coax into the X. I routed my XM antenna cable under the weather stripping at the top of the back hatch. I just made a small notch in the pinch seam that the stripping attaches to. That was very easy because the XM antenna wire is the size of 14 gauge wire. Very thin. The CB antenna coax is a different story.

Right-now, I just have a temporary setup, I plug the CB in the lighter plug, put the CB on the floor somewhere and put the magnetic antenna on the roof through a door opening. The weather stripping has enough sponge to take the cable without crushing it, but I don't how tight the weather stripping would be around the CB antenna cable for a long term installation.

Not a big fan of drilling a hole in the body to let the CB antenna cable out. If I was to drill a hole for the CB antenna cable, might as well drill holes for a permanent mount.

I guess I still have some thinking to do.

56kz2slow - You can get a pigtail piece of coax that is smaller than standard rg58 (about 1/3 the width) that'll help with routing the antenna thru an opening with weather stripping.

Dave D - I'll be sure to post back here but it may be a bit yet since I have yet to buy the radio

As an aside, I have a Sirius radio and after trying to find a clean way to route the antenna wire, I just decided to mount the antenna on the dash. Since the antenna is small it really isn't too objectionable. After testing the reception for a few days I just used a couple of pieces of velcro to hold it in place - works great (I have an 05 and the wire routes nicely up the right hand side of the center console).

Lastly, I just installed a RAM mount to hold my cell phone and Sirius tuner. Works great (bolted down to the transmission hump.

Just a word of friendly advice, do not use a lip clamp antenna bracket. Opening and closing the hatch will cause the lip clamp to bend the edge of the hatch to which it is attached. I tried it, and got rid of it after two day.

k_enn

Check out the thread "How to wire for an antenna?" for details on wiring the antenna through the tail light assembly and up the channel for the hatch.

k_enn

I like that idea, I haven't read the post yet, but the hampster is already turning in the wheel, I can already visualize it.

k_enn,

Thanks on both counts.

I ended up with a Wilson Magnet mount antenna. I wanted to route the wire through the brake light assemble but I couldnt get the lens off. I didnt want to risk breaking the plastic pins behind the lens. I made a notch in the pinch seam on the top of the rear hatch. Routed the wire through the pinch seam, under the top plastic molding near the hatch, down the driver side rear corner molding, under the cargo rug and under the pass compartment rug to the console, under the console to the back of the CB that is mounted under my after market Pioneer HU. Ill take some pics tomorow and post them.

Ok guys, I finished the intall last night, and took a couple of pics this morning. Now my problem is that I have a constant electrical interference no matter at an idle or full throttle. The interference doesnt change with the rpm. I have orange wire connected to the 4way flasher fuse, and the red wire connected to the cigg lighter fuse, and the ground connected to a metal brace under the dash.

CB Install

CB Install

Nice clean install.

For the interference, bad ground is a common cause. Normally, interference normally goes with engine RPM so maybe it's not related to the ground. Since it's close to the radio, I wonder if that can be a cause. You could try removing the fuse for the radio to shut it down completely because when you turn them off, they are more in sleep mode than really off. There are components that remain powered.

I might be way off, but those are the first things that come to mind.

I'll try moving the ground wire. If that doesnt work, Ill try using different fuses for power. Or better yet, just run the wire directly to the battery.

Are you running amps off of that headunit above? If so, make sure to move the RCA's as far away from the unit as possible.

I had to do that or else I got alternator noise with the CB radio so close to my headunit.

You may also want to ground the headunit to the chassis instead of through the harness.

EDIT: I just read that you said it didnt change with RPM. I would still check the ground on the head unit and make sure its to a solid,clean, metal surface and definitely not through the factory harness for the radio...The same applies for the CB....

My ground wire was way below the radio as shown in my original pics.

I am running an aftermarket amp. Its mounted on the back of the rear pass seat. What RCA plugs are you suggesting I move? I had a Tweeters store install the after market stereo. I wouldnt know where they grounded it. I would think its grounded through the harness. The electrical noise im getting sounds like if you drive under high tension power lines, you get that buzzing sounds until you pass the power lines. Im able to squelsh the buzzing noise out, and only receive strong signals. Running the CB on accessories, I dont get the electrical buzzing.

here's my firestik antenna

Well I found out what is causing my electrical interference. It is the fuel pump. When running on acessories, the CB is fine, no interference. When I turn the key to the on position, the interference last only for a short time (5 sec) im assuming its the fuel pump pressurizing. When I start the X the fuel pump runs all the time, hence the interference. Im going to try a noise filter and see what that does.

OK, now im at a loss as what to do next. It appears that the atenna is picking up the electrical signal from the fuel pump. When I disconnect the antenna from the CB the interference stops. Any clues as to my next step? The Antenna is a Wilson magnet mount located on the rear of the roof. Good SWR, needle hardly moves after calibration.

Where did you run your antenna wire to the back?

My guess is your antenna wire is picking up interference as its running parallel to the wire that turns on the fuel pump.

If you ran it along the bottom side of the truck, try routing it along the top of the truck, inside of course, like where the headliner and side of the truck meet.

I'd also just do a quick test with the wire loose and way from everything to see if it goes away first before re-routing....

Im assuming the fuel pump wiring runs along the pass side frame rail to the fuel tank. The antenna wire is routed along the left side of the X. The antenna wire is running down the left side cargo plastic,under the cargo carpet, along side the rear pass seat under the left side door post, under the drivers seat,under the floor console, under the dash to the CB. Are you getting any RF interference from the fuel pump? Ill just try running a new coax from the cb to the antenna without tucking the coax anywhere until and if the RF interference is eliminated.

I'm getting that same problem. Static for 5 sec in the "On" Position and then constant when the engine is running. I using RG-59 for my antenna but I've tried RG-6 double sheilded outside the vehicle and gotten the same results. I going to a local CB shop on Saturday and consult with them.
Has anyone with this problem tried unplugging fuses or devices until the interference stops?

I haven't tried the whole thing seeing if I got the noise when I turn to the ON, but I have noticed mine making the noise when I am driving down the highway though. I have my cable running along the headliner and then dropping to the floor along the siding where the driver seatbelt is bolted. I have my CB mounted under my driver seat and my power running from my cig lighter. I am thinking about making me a ground-loop feedback filter when I get back to school.

Ford had this problem with explorers, at one time, ford had a fix for their fuel pump interference problem. some sort of filter kit that would be wired as close to the fuel pump as you can get. Ford no long sells this kit. Ill try on Ebay, maybe there is some left over kits availible.

The problem isnt ignition noise. Its RFI, "Radio Frequency Interference". Pulling fuses wont help one bit.

OK guys,, here goes.
If you have a fuel-pump noise problem, the place to start is with your dealer or automotive service person. They can determine if there are any service bulletins that apply to your car. This is especially true if your car is in warranty. In all cases, all work on vehicles should be done by people who are qualified to do the work and who are familiar with the vehicle. Gasoline tanks can explode if not serviced properly, so this is not a job for a backyard mechanic!

The ideal place to install the filter is right at the pump, which is inside the fuel tank. It is electrically possible to install the filter on the leads where they enter the tank, but if the tank is not well shielded, electrical noise could still be radiated by the leads between the filter and the motor. On lower HF, however, this radiation will be minimal and it may be possible for your dealer to install filters to the wires external to the gas tank.

Hams have reported various degrees of success using various filtering techniques. In some cases, ferrite inductors have been added to both wires feeding the fuel pump. It is usually more effective to use a separate choke for each wire. In general, at upper HF, one of the split bead types can be used, with a couple of turns of wire on each bead. At lower HF, it will be necessary to use a ferrite toroidal core, perhaps an FT-140-43, with at least 10 turns of wire. In addition, it may be necessary to try a 0.01 uF capacitor across the two wires, perhaps on each side of the chokes. Some have reported good results using just the capacitors. There are also mechanical considerations. Splicing wires can result in mechanical failure, or corrosion, with the result being a motor that will not run (these things seem to happen at the worst possible times!). In addition, heavy chokes or capacitors can vibrate as the vehicle goes over bumps, ultimately causing the wire to fail.

Its me again fellas, Ok now hear this. Went to radio shack and bought 2 ferrite chokes for the RFI. They are about 3/4 of an inch long and install around coax or wires, and snap shut. Removed the rear pass seat unbolted the fuel pump access cover, stripped off about 3 inches of the plastic wire loom and installed the chokes around all the wires and snap shut the choke. Wrapped the chokes in aluminum foil and reinstalled the access cover. Removed the ground wire for the fuel pump and removed some paint under the terminal and reinstalled the ground wire. 85 % of the RFI was removed. Under the access cover there will be another cover to actually access the terminals of the fuel pump. When the weather is better I will install the chokes as close to the fuel pump terminals as I can. Im sure the reduction will be better. PS, wrapped the fuel pump terminals in aluminum foil also. This worked for me, Im sure it will work for you. Chokes are 5 bucks at Radio Shack. Let me know how you guys make out.

Well I appreciate all the help that DaveD has given on this problem but after trying your last idea, I've still got the interference. I'm still going to work at it but as for now I'm going to live with it. * A warning to anyone else having this problem: If you unplug the fuel pump and have the key in the "on" position, then the fucking computer in the truck thinks its smarter than you and will turn the fucking "service engine soon" light on. And then I had to go to the Dealer and find some one who understood what the hell I was talking about. "You can't do that only we can do that."-Moron

I had some electrical probs after I did the install. Orginally, I had the cb power wires hooked up to the fuse panel on the dash. I disconnected them and ran everything to the battery. The dealer said that my problems were due to installing the power wires to the fuse box, I said BS, that has nothing to do with it. So now, my Cruise control doesnt work, my check engine light keeps comming on, my dome lights dont go out as soon as I start the engine (they fade out) and lastly, I cant raise the driver window after shutting off the engine. Normally you can finish raising the window within 10-15 sec after shutting down the motor. Have an appt at the dealer on the 6th of June, Im sure they will give me a line of crap and say that I caused the prob and wont fix it under warranty.

Also if you run shielded cable to the battery both negative and positive, you will eliminate most if not all the interference in your CB that comes from the vehicle.

Tom

Tom, shielded cable from the battery is fine if you have ignition noise. If you have the fuel pump electrical interference shielded cable wont do any good.

I'm having the same issues with the noisy fuel pump and the CB... I haven't tried any of the suggested fixes yet, but my mind wanders off to an episode of mythbusters where they built a cage with some form of metal mesh walls that blocked out all of the RF signals. They even showed the bars on a cell phone as it entered the cage going to zero.

ah yes, here we go:
http://community.discovery.com/eve/ubb.x/a/tpc/f/9801967776/m/679106226

What are you guys' thoughts on this? I may have to experiment with it a little as the buzz effectively makes my CB useless while the engine is running.

If the interference (whine) is coming from the fuel pump, the only way to effectively fix the problem is at its source (the fuel pump). As already stated, nothing else will fix the problem. The only right way to fix the problem is to solder a capacitor between or as close as possible to the fuel pumps electrical terminals.
My 04 X has less than 7000 miles on it. Other than adding to (off road lights, aux fuse block, etc), I'd much rather not screw around with any existing wiring for fear of having some sort of problem later on and then being told it won't be covered under warranty cause I dicked with the wiring somewhere.
Although... here is an idea I had.
The fuel pump seems easily accessible under the rear seat. I haven't checked yet but I'm guessing the power wiring is connected to the fuel pump with some sort of male/female connector. If it's possible to get the same male and female connector, a small 1.5 or 2 inch wiring extension cable can be made with the capacitor soldered between the power leads of the extension cable. One end of the extension would plug into the fuel pump and the other end would plug into the existing wiring. The capacitor won't be wired directly to the fuel pump but at least there will be one wired close to it. Hopefully it would help/work.
Gene