Ok guys, I finished the intall last night, and took a couple of pics this morning. Now my problem is that I have a constant electrical interference no matter at an idle or full throttle. The interference doesnt change with the rpm. I have orange wire connected to the 4way flasher fuse, and the red wire connected to the cigg lighter fuse, and the ground connected to a metal brace under the dash.

CB Install

CB Install

Nice clean install.

For the interference, bad ground is a common cause. Normally, interference normally goes with engine RPM so maybe it's not related to the ground. Since it's close to the radio, I wonder if that can be a cause. You could try removing the fuse for the radio to shut it down completely because when you turn them off, they are more in sleep mode than really off. There are components that remain powered.

I might be way off, but those are the first things that come to mind.

I'll try moving the ground wire. If that doesnt work, Ill try using different fuses for power. Or better yet, just run the wire directly to the battery.

Are you running amps off of that headunit above? If so, make sure to move the RCA's as far away from the unit as possible.

I had to do that or else I got alternator noise with the CB radio so close to my headunit.

You may also want to ground the headunit to the chassis instead of through the harness.

EDIT: I just read that you said it didnt change with RPM. I would still check the ground on the head unit and make sure its to a solid,clean, metal surface and definitely not through the factory harness for the radio...The same applies for the CB....

My ground wire was way below the radio as shown in my original pics.

I am running an aftermarket amp. Its mounted on the back of the rear pass seat. What RCA plugs are you suggesting I move? I had a Tweeters store install the after market stereo. I wouldnt know where they grounded it. I would think its grounded through the harness. The electrical noise im getting sounds like if you drive under high tension power lines, you get that buzzing sounds until you pass the power lines. Im able to squelsh the buzzing noise out, and only receive strong signals. Running the CB on accessories, I dont get the electrical buzzing.

here's my firestik antenna

Well I found out what is causing my electrical interference. It is the fuel pump. When running on acessories, the CB is fine, no interference. When I turn the key to the on position, the interference last only for a short time (5 sec) im assuming its the fuel pump pressurizing. When I start the X the fuel pump runs all the time, hence the interference. Im going to try a noise filter and see what that does.

OK, now im at a loss as what to do next. It appears that the atenna is picking up the electrical signal from the fuel pump. When I disconnect the antenna from the CB the interference stops. Any clues as to my next step? The Antenna is a Wilson magnet mount located on the rear of the roof. Good SWR, needle hardly moves after calibration.

Where did you run your antenna wire to the back?

My guess is your antenna wire is picking up interference as its running parallel to the wire that turns on the fuel pump.

If you ran it along the bottom side of the truck, try routing it along the top of the truck, inside of course, like where the headliner and side of the truck meet.

I'd also just do a quick test with the wire loose and way from everything to see if it goes away first before re-routing....

Im assuming the fuel pump wiring runs along the pass side frame rail to the fuel tank. The antenna wire is routed along the left side of the X. The antenna wire is running down the left side cargo plastic,under the cargo carpet, along side the rear pass seat under the left side door post, under the drivers seat,under the floor console, under the dash to the CB. Are you getting any RF interference from the fuel pump? Ill just try running a new coax from the cb to the antenna without tucking the coax anywhere until and if the RF interference is eliminated.

I'm getting that same problem. Static for 5 sec in the "On" Position and then constant when the engine is running. I using RG-59 for my antenna but I've tried RG-6 double sheilded outside the vehicle and gotten the same results. I going to a local CB shop on Saturday and consult with them.
Has anyone with this problem tried unplugging fuses or devices until the interference stops?

I haven't tried the whole thing seeing if I got the noise when I turn to the ON, but I have noticed mine making the noise when I am driving down the highway though. I have my cable running along the headliner and then dropping to the floor along the siding where the driver seatbelt is bolted. I have my CB mounted under my driver seat and my power running from my cig lighter. I am thinking about making me a ground-loop feedback filter when I get back to school.

Ford had this problem with explorers, at one time, ford had a fix for their fuel pump interference problem. some sort of filter kit that would be wired as close to the fuel pump as you can get. Ford no long sells this kit. Ill try on Ebay, maybe there is some left over kits availible.

The problem isnt ignition noise. Its RFI, "Radio Frequency Interference". Pulling fuses wont help one bit.

OK guys,, here goes.
If you have a fuel-pump noise problem, the place to start is with your dealer or automotive service person. They can determine if there are any service bulletins that apply to your car. This is especially true if your car is in warranty. In all cases, all work on vehicles should be done by people who are qualified to do the work and who are familiar with the vehicle. Gasoline tanks can explode if not serviced properly, so this is not a job for a backyard mechanic!

The ideal place to install the filter is right at the pump, which is inside the fuel tank. It is electrically possible to install the filter on the leads where they enter the tank, but if the tank is not well shielded, electrical noise could still be radiated by the leads between the filter and the motor. On lower HF, however, this radiation will be minimal and it may be possible for your dealer to install filters to the wires external to the gas tank.

Hams have reported various degrees of success using various filtering techniques. In some cases, ferrite inductors have been added to both wires feeding the fuel pump. It is usually more effective to use a separate choke for each wire. In general, at upper HF, one of the split bead types can be used, with a couple of turns of wire on each bead. At lower HF, it will be necessary to use a ferrite toroidal core, perhaps an FT-140-43, with at least 10 turns of wire. In addition, it may be necessary to try a 0.01 uF capacitor across the two wires, perhaps on each side of the chokes. Some have reported good results using just the capacitors. There are also mechanical considerations. Splicing wires can result in mechanical failure, or corrosion, with the result being a motor that will not run (these things seem to happen at the worst possible times!). In addition, heavy chokes or capacitors can vibrate as the vehicle goes over bumps, ultimately causing the wire to fail.

Its me again fellas, Ok now hear this. Went to radio shack and bought 2 ferrite chokes for the RFI. They are about 3/4 of an inch long and install around coax or wires, and snap shut. Removed the rear pass seat unbolted the fuel pump access cover, stripped off about 3 inches of the plastic wire loom and installed the chokes around all the wires and snap shut the choke. Wrapped the chokes in aluminum foil and reinstalled the access cover. Removed the ground wire for the fuel pump and removed some paint under the terminal and reinstalled the ground wire. 85 % of the RFI was removed. Under the access cover there will be another cover to actually access the terminals of the fuel pump. When the weather is better I will install the chokes as close to the fuel pump terminals as I can. Im sure the reduction will be better. PS, wrapped the fuel pump terminals in aluminum foil also. This worked for me, Im sure it will work for you. Chokes are 5 bucks at Radio Shack. Let me know how you guys make out.

Well I appreciate all the help that DaveD has given on this problem but after trying your last idea, I've still got the interference. I'm still going to work at it but as for now I'm going to live with it. * A warning to anyone else having this problem: If you unplug the fuel pump and have the key in the "on" position, then the fucking computer in the truck thinks its smarter than you and will turn the fucking "service engine soon" light on. And then I had to go to the Dealer and find some one who understood what the hell I was talking about. "You can't do that only we can do that."-Moron

I had some electrical probs after I did the install. Orginally, I had the cb power wires hooked up to the fuse panel on the dash. I disconnected them and ran everything to the battery. The dealer said that my problems were due to installing the power wires to the fuse box, I said BS, that has nothing to do with it. So now, my Cruise control doesnt work, my check engine light keeps comming on, my dome lights dont go out as soon as I start the engine (they fade out) and lastly, I cant raise the driver window after shutting off the engine. Normally you can finish raising the window within 10-15 sec after shutting down the motor. Have an appt at the dealer on the 6th of June, Im sure they will give me a line of crap and say that I caused the prob and wont fix it under warranty.

Also if you run shielded cable to the battery both negative and positive, you will eliminate most if not all the interference in your CB that comes from the vehicle.

Tom

Tom, shielded cable from the battery is fine if you have ignition noise. If you have the fuel pump electrical interference shielded cable wont do any good.

I'm having the same issues with the noisy fuel pump and the CB... I haven't tried any of the suggested fixes yet, but my mind wanders off to an episode of mythbusters where they built a cage with some form of metal mesh walls that blocked out all of the RF signals. They even showed the bars on a cell phone as it entered the cage going to zero.

ah yes, here we go:
http://community.discovery.com/eve/ubb.x/a/tpc/f/9801967776/m/679106226

What are you guys' thoughts on this? I may have to experiment with it a little as the buzz effectively makes my CB useless while the engine is running.

If the interference (whine) is coming from the fuel pump, the only way to effectively fix the problem is at its source (the fuel pump). As already stated, nothing else will fix the problem. The only right way to fix the problem is to solder a capacitor between or as close as possible to the fuel pumps electrical terminals.
My 04 X has less than 7000 miles on it. Other than adding to (off road lights, aux fuse block, etc), I'd much rather not screw around with any existing wiring for fear of having some sort of problem later on and then being told it won't be covered under warranty cause I dicked with the wiring somewhere.
Although... here is an idea I had.
The fuel pump seems easily accessible under the rear seat. I haven't checked yet but I'm guessing the power wiring is connected to the fuel pump with some sort of male/female connector. If it's possible to get the same male and female connector, a small 1.5 or 2 inch wiring extension cable can be made with the capacitor soldered between the power leads of the extension cable. One end of the extension would plug into the fuel pump and the other end would plug into the existing wiring. The capacitor won't be wired directly to the fuel pump but at least there will be one wired close to it. Hopefully it would help/work.
Gene