Start familiarizing yourself with the body mounts (10) and the involved bolt head/nut sizes/locations....and hit them all with nut blaster/penetrating oil now, while you're waiting....they can be really rust welded in place...and the longer the oil has to work on it for you, the easier your install day will be (Fewer strips, busted knuckles, etc.).
Do look at every single thing that runs from the frame to the body...various lines, A/C, vents, axle ring, shifters, electrical, your steering column (Secure in place to avoid losing alignment of steering wheel...)...and when ready, loosen it all so it can slide when the body moves away.
(Don't forget these need to be pre-oiled too...)
A bunch of zip ties on-hand can be a blessing.
I did the 2" BL with buds just this summer, time - wise, it took a solid 3 hrs of attention for 3 guys not counting pizza/beverage breaks, etc.
It was streamlined by the fact that one bud has done many BL's, and acted as foreman.
You'll need more than one tool set for maximum efficiency...have the buds bring theirs too. (One holds top of bolt, inside truck, one turns from below truck, etc...)
For the 2", you can ignore the radiator related braces and so forth, and just let it ride connected (w/o draining, etc.).
I have a 5 spd SE...and my T-case shifter (As it was essentially now shorter) could not engage 4 lo as it now hit the cup holder...so I dremmeled a slot in the cup holder, and the shifter just slides into the gap just fine. (The rubber cup holder liner hides the slot in the plastic, and crushes easily when in lo, and pops back up when in hi...)
If raising the bumpers to conceal the gap...
Get some good drill bits (Duplicates) to drill new holes for re-mounting the bumpers...or leave the 2" gap if it doesn't matter to you, its merely an esthetic issue alone....and maybe structural if you need to tow, etc. from it. (Leaving it low is stronger, raising it looks better) - You can brace the raised position to compensate/increase the strength, etc.)
Hope that helps!