Can someone with a A C 2" BL tell me the exact diameter of the pucks?
I am attempting to make my own, and possibly custom pucks for anyone who is interested.
But I need to test my prototype first.
Thanx

Measure the diameter of the stock rubber pucks.

If got some quality ones that would be cool. especially if you could sell them for less.

Pretty sure that this is goona work...and yes they will be high quality...I"m goona call this mod the PMBL [poor mans body lift]

Nice...keep things updated.

There was a post here way back when about using hockey pucks. I don't remembe the upshot, but if you hunt around for it that may help save you some time.

2X4 Blocks? That would only be 1 1/2 inch lift unless you stack them. Unfortunately I can't say I haven't seen this before.

I would guestimate that the AC ones we installed last weekend were approximately 3 inches in diameter and of course were 2 inches tall.

Good luck.

I made my own BL kit. I only wanted 1.25" of lift to clear my tires.
I turned UHMW disks 3" diameter x 1.25" long.
The bigger problem with making your own kit is the 12mm extra fine pitch bolts needed for the back 2 body mounts. The 10mm bolts for the middle mounts and the drive shaft saftey hoop are fairly common fine pitch metric hardware and the 6 bolts with nuts you can use grade 8 standard bolts.
For the 12mm bolts, I had to order 12 bolts minimum and they were custom made after our purchasing dept spent quite a while looking for anyone who could get them otherwise.

I have 10 of them left, and they may work for a 2" lift (they wouold work for 1.75" for sure) if you can't find them elsewhere let me know.

McMaster-Carr has that sort of stuff if you need weird bolt sizes.

Go here: http://sportztrailers.com/ they sell blocks separately. About $2.50 each plus shipping.

I didnt see any for Xterra. But I guess if the measurements are the same any will do. I know others have thought of this before but if you could piece a BL together starting here, I be a guy could save some cash.

EDIT TO ADD: Ok, I didnt look very good before HERE are some that are 3" wide X 2" tall.

Having a real tough time finding the bolts...McMaster-Carr has bolts from hell, but not the ones that I need...I will probably end up re-threading two for the middle...or one for the middle, beings I broke one off in the hole.
Hopefully I can buy two for the rear from MMNIAC
Thanks for all the support guys...how bout giving me some trucks?

Might want to check out 4crawler's site. I know he does alot of custom lift stuff and answered alot of my questions when I was lifting my old toyota pickup. He could probably supply you with parts or at least point you in the right direction. I'm interested to see what you come up with, keep us updated.

Oh here's a link to his website: http://4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/ProductLine.shtml

Ditto!

I've searched around but I can't find the thread from a couple of months back where someone listed out in detail the components of the 2" BL including details of the bolt sizes. Anyone know where this is?

Found it in the backyard mechanic
Posted by 01salsaxterra
This is for a 2000-2004 Xterra, Frontier might be a little different.

Here they are in no particular order..
(2) 12mm x 180mm x 1.25" bolts (black ones) (rear of truck by bumper going up)
(2) 10mm x 160mm x 1.25" bolts (black ones) (2nd to last body mount toward the rear bumper)
(6) 6" x 7/16" x 14mm bolts (gold ones) (the other 6 body mounts of the truck)
(6) 3/8" nylock locking nuts
(6) 3/8" washers
(8) 1/2" washers
driveshaft safety loops spacers (2)- 5/8"o.d. x 2" long
(2) 10mm x 80mm x 1.25" thread
(10) 2"h x 3" wide w/ 1/2" hole body lift pucks

oh yeah, I forgot that I posted that.
I was looking into piecing a kit together, but ended up buying a never installed bodylift from another member. Very easy install, I lucked out.

4crawler is definitely the site to get the pucks from. I think they were $2.50 each.
No need to go hunting around for them.

Good luck, and be sure to post where you ended up buying everything.

Are there custom brackets that need to be made for the bumpers so that they line up right afterward?

I thought I read somewhere that there is something that needs to be done with the transfer case shifter, what are the parts for that?

I mean I don't see it being hard to get the pucks bolts or radiator relocation brackets but those would be two concerns I would have.

If you're using stock bumpers still then you still have enough on the OEM mounts to drill out new holes for the 2"..Or if your running Shrockworks rear then it'll have the holes already in it.And depending on if you have the front bumper from them with the 2" bl option or not.

As far as the radiator drop goes you could always just remove the bottom fan shroud and call it good to go as far as that goes.

And for the t-case shifter you'd have to notch it outso you'd be able the get your shifter into 4lo.Some poeple sya that they didn't have to go that route and it shifts right in.I haven't had the chance to see if mine actually does or not after putting in my BL.

There we go

I'll look into it and see what the cost would be compared to just buying the kit. I've never really wanted to do a BL but now I'm thinking about it. If the cost is considerably less than buying the kit I may go for it.

OK, I went out and pulled out one of each of the types of body bolts: 1 rear, 1 in front of rear wheel and 1 front.

I'm a little confused with your list Salsa. There are only 2 different bolt types. The very rear ones are M12 X 1.25 pitch. The other ones are exactly the same: M10 X 1.25 pitch. Why the 7/16" bolt you listed. Is there a reason to have a little beefier bolt there?

I went up to the local hardware store and they had the correct bolts, just not ones that were long enough. Probably have to order. In my estimation, the bolts should be about $2-5 each meaning $20-50 in bolts, $25 + the standard $10 shipping on the pucks making them $35. That means a cost of anywhere from $55-$85 for just the bolts and pucks. Reuse the washers and nuts. Find some 2" bushings for the safety loops, and work out the other brackets for the radiator and brake lines and you should be under $100 for a pieced together 2" body lift.

When I find the bolts are repost.

The rear bolts are 12MM 1.25 thread bout 4 1/2 long
the CENTER bolts are 10MM 1.25 thread bout 4 1/4 long
all other bolts can be 7/16 or 3/8 I dont know the length...havent had one out yet...
Sorry for the confusion

Ok, I typed that list of bolts directly from the AC instructions parts list that came with my body lift kit.
There are 3 different types of bolts as listed.
two are metric M12x1.25, M10x1.25 that bolt directly up into welded nuts in the frame. Those are the rear four mounts.
The other 6 use a nut and bolt that goes through the floor and are accessible by peeling off the plastic covers under the carpet.
AC (performance accessories body lift) went with 7/16" bolts. I didnt argue since it came that way with my kit.

Good luck piecing a kit together.

Save some money by eliminating the follow items.
1. T-case lever extension (just notch the floor for auto, and cup holder for manual)
2. Radiator relocation brackets
3. power steering bracket relocation, just bend up a piece of metal accordingly, or zip tie like a lot of others have done. LOL
4. I am not using my driveshaft safety loop since I have full skids and the safety loop only protected below the truck not above. And I also have to cut my safety loop off since the bolts were seized on.

Good luck.
I'm really happy with my 2" body lift and how smoothly everything went.
Do a search on here for Body lift instructions, there are several REALLY good write-ups on how to do it.
Burn the AC 2" body lift instructions.

OK, now I realize they went with the 7/16" bolts because M10 x 1.25 bolts are kinda pricy in the length needed for the 2" BL. ($10-12 vs $1-3 for the 7/16"). For those 6 bolts really you could use any size or thread type you want since they use their own nuts.

I'm still trying to find the important bolts which is no surprise since others went thru the same thing.

If anyone else has an in on the bolts, just to remind, you need:
(2) M12 x 1.25 pitch x 180mm
(2) M10 x 1.25 pitch x 160mm

EDIT TO ADD 11/14/06: I found the M10 x 1.25 pitch x 160mm here locally. $12.40 each!

M10x1.5 is a metric course thread and M10x1.25 is a metric fine - the lenght is an issue but they can be found.

M12x1.75 is course and M12x1.5 is fine - the required M12x1.25 is a rare extra fine thread bolt - finding them in the required length is next to impossible.

I will reply to your PMs tomorrow from work.

So....has anybody put their own kit together yet? If so, any snags along the way(bolt length, washers, etc...)

I'm working on it. Here is how I'm approaching it:

body pucks ( sportztrailers.com ) $3.50 X 10 = $35.00

3/8" x 6" bolts (Ace Hardware) $1.65 X 6 = $9.90

3/8" flange nuts (Ace Hardware) $0.69 X 6 = $4.14

3/8" washers (Ace Hardware) $0.09 X 6 = $0.54

M10 x 1.25 x 160mm (local bolt company) $12.40 X 2 = $24.80

M12 x 1.25 x 170mm (Another XOC Member) (private) X 2 = (private)

M10 x 1.25 x 80mm (Ace Hardware) $2.88 X 2 = $5.76

I'll have to find some sleeves for the safety loop and it'll be well under the cost of the kit from 4x4parts.

So you can see that the cost is about $80 + the cost of the M12 bolts (I wont disclose this for respect of the seller)

Mod Day looks like Saturday 12-23-6
Cut the blocks with a mitre saw
Been spraying everything with WD-40 for a couple of weeks now...had most of the bolts out...skid plate is off...lower fan shroud is off...all plastic bolt covers are off...
I think preparation is the key to this mod.

Will post pics and details

PB Blaster works beter than WD-40, in case it helps.

If you can get Kroil...its even better than nut blaster.

WD-40 works great for attracting catfish though...

What material is that? Keep in mind that some states dont pass homemade body lifts at inspection. That is if your state even requires vehicle inspections. (Oklahoma does not)

It is plastic, really really hard plastic...and it is solid...hard as a rock...comes in all shapes and sizes
Heres what it looked like before I started

And if its good enough for Homey [the cat] its good enough for me

posted November 13, 2006 07:57 AM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Found it in the backyard mechanic
Posted by 01salsaxterra
This is for a 2000-2004 Xterra, Frontier might be a little different.

Here they are in no particular order..
(2) 12mm x 180mm x 1.25" bolts (black ones) (rear of truck by bumper going up)
(2) 10mm x 160mm x 1.25" bolts (black ones) (2nd to last body mount toward the rear bumper)
(6) 6" x 7/16" x 14mm bolts (gold ones) (the other 6 body mounts of the truck)
(6) 3/8" nylock locking nuts
(6) 3/8" washers
(8) 1/2" washers
driveshaft safety loops spacers (2)- 5/8"o.d. x 2" long
(2) 10mm x 80mm x 1.25" thread
(10) 2"h x 3" wide w/ 1/2" hole body lift pucks
Just curious as to what the 10mm x 80mm x 1.25" thread is. Are those bolts needed in addition to the other ten?

Yup, the M10 x 1.25 x 80mm bolts are for the safety loop extension. You need 2 of them + some 2" sleeves for spacers. You can get them at Ace Hardware. In fact, you can get everything at Ace Hardware except 3 items:

M12 X 1.25 X 180mm bolts. Got mine from MMNIAC
M10 X 1.25 X 160mm bolts. Got mine at a local bolt shop.
2" tall X 3" wide body lift pucks. Get em HERE

Oh yeah, I hope you caught this, but don't get 3/8" nuts for the 7/16" bolts. Won't work

I have'nt got the pucks yet but here's what I got so far. The 4 brackets are for the stock front bumpers relocation. I've since welded studs on the top hole for ease of install so a bolt head does not contact the frame. The large zip tie will be used to secure the power steering pump reservoir for now:

Ya, I did a search on the net for metric bolts with the pitch and length specified. So far, nada. I emailed a couple of companies and enquired about them, but am waiting for replies. Anybody have any other ideas on where to get the 180mm and 160mm metric bolts?

Reedus

You can order anything metric (bolts, tools, etc.) from a place called Metric Specialties.

They're in Burbank, CA and have great customer service. Either call them or go through metricspecialties.com.

You have to know what you want when you order, but they are great and have my business.

Hope this helps.

And Skaggs, I want to see the rack! Waiting, waiting...

check my profile. Almost done. I have not had the money to get it powder coated so It's kinda on hold for now. I'm anxious also. I was hoping to be using it before the winter was over.

Schweet!

PMBL [poor mans body lift] Done!

Good job How much did you end up spending if you dont mind me asking?

The only thing I had to buy was the bolts
If I remember right it was around $25
Made the pucks, re-drilled the rear bumper,
cut old pipe down to 1 3/4 for the front,
So absolutely less than $30

PMBL

Holy crap! You kicked ass! Where did you find bolts for so cheap?

Here is a pic of the pipe that I used for the front bumper as a spacer...had to make 4 of these

I only had to buy 6 metric bolts, 4 for the front bumper and the 2 magic bolts that go in the very rear body mount I got them from the same place you got yours

So you reused the other stock bolts then? If you did, I did'nt think they were long enough. Otherwise, you musta had some on hand already.

Either way, good work

With all new bolts/washers/nuts and the Performance Accessories body pucks, I am clocking in at a grand total of $108.28

Here's my list:

• 2" tall x 3" wide body pucks (10) - sportztrailers.com
• 7/16" x 6" bolts grade 8 (6) - Ace Hardware
• 7/16" Nylock nuts grade 8 (6) - Ace Hardware
• 7/16" flat washers grade 8 (6) - Ace Hardware
• M10 x 1.25 x 160mm bolts (2) Local Bolt Company
• 10mm flat washer (2) - Ace Hardware
• 10mm lock washer (2) - Ace Hardware
• M12 x 1.25 x 170mm bolts (2) - MMNIAC
• 12mm flat washer (2) - Ace Hardware
• 12mm lock washer (2) - Ace Hardware
• M10 x 1.25 x 75mm bolts-for safety loop (2) - Ace Hardware
• 2" safety loop extension sleeves (2) - Ace Hardware
  (1/2” copper pipe, 2" pieces)

Got all the other bolts and nuts at my local hardware store [bulk] by the pound

Oh, I never thought about buying in bulk by the pound. That could have saved me alot. I'll know next time.

Okay, I am ordering the blocks as we speak. I have a few questions, what are the driveshaft safety loops spacers? A visual would be great. And since I would be saving a few bucks on the BL, would the Front Skid Plate from 4x4parts.com fit and work okay as is, or would I need to add something else?

I will update with the prices and stores for the parts as I collect them all.

Go look on page 3 of this thread. There's a picture there and then there is the list of everything and where I got it.

Also, HERE\'S a good write up on how do do the BL including pictures.

This is your driveshaft safety loop:


You just need some 2" sleeves and some longer bolts to re-position the loop after the Body has been raised off the frame. The easiest way is to get some 1/2" copper pipe and cut two 2" pieces.

This is a pic of the section I had to cut out to get my unit to go and stay in 4Lo
Some have used tin snips...I just happend to have my saws-all handy
Do not be afraid of this mod...very simple.

Here is another one before the cut

Looks kinda goofy with those "little" 31X10.5-15 tires on it...gotta get some 33X12.5-15 maybe tax time

Thought about marketing this at all? Might have a few buyers here.

Just the salesman in me talking...

It actually does not look goofy at all. But it'll be bad ass when you get the 33's.

What does make it look goofy though are those gay-ass splash guards.

Okay, I I have the calmini shackles and the blocks ordered. This gives me some time to find the bolts. I went to check at Home Depot tonight and the only items that they had were the 10mm and 12mm washers. I drove to Ace that is closest(not so close) and it is a new store that has not opened. I appreciate what others have posted on this thread, it almost makes it seem too easy.

Yep...thought about it but the bolts are too hard to find. There is a ton of information and resources on this XOC site, which made it possible for me and alot of other people to mod, and mod very cheaply.
Thanks for all the help, people

and yes the flaps gotta go

MMNIAC, sent a PM to you.

I finally got the pucks to complete my "Assemble Your Own 2"BL kit." Hopefully I can do the install this weekend:

Installed!

Got home from work and just decided to go for it. Took me just under 6 hours by myself. I still need to relocate the rear bumper though.

Wish I had got the 33's now

Now if I get a decent tax return I can put in for some 2" BL Shrock sliders. JOY!

6 hours alone is excellent!

You were flying.



I typically need about 4 hrs...and that's with freinds, beer and pizza.

Way to go

The site for the body pucks says SOLD OUT, do you have to call or are they really sold out?

I left my rear bumper about 1/2 inch lower than stock...it just seemed to fit better there.
Plus now I can get my fingers between the rear bumper and the hatch

That's what happened when I tried to order them. I called them and they fixed it on the website. Was able to order online then. Call em.

I ordered my body pucks on 12/30 and have not received them yet. I called yesterday to check on them and the lady could not get in touch with the warehouse to get tracking info. I asked about them being sold out and she said that my order went through before they might have sold out of them. I hope to get them soon. For those that ordered from them, how long did it take?

How about posting some pics for those of us who are looking into doing the same?

Before:


After:


Even got some white stuff!

Skaggs,bro, it's looking good.

Didn't you just get new tires not too long ago? Maybe you can swap someone out for some 33s.

When are you going to get some UCAs for that thing? You've done everything else...

I totally wish I had gone for the 33's now. When I was making the decision on the tires, I had ruled out the body lift so I stuck with 32's. I've had them rotated once so that means about 7500 miles? I hate to lose money on them just to get the 33's. They will do ok for now but the next set will be 33's and I might even go for some steelies.

I would love to get the UCA's since I've had in my garage for months the SLR AAL's and Diff drop kit. I've been trying to budget for the UCA's but I really should get some Shrock sliders first. But after that, it's on! Maybe you could help me pay for them. Whata you say!?

About the pucks, it did take a while since they forgot about my order over the holidays. I had to call when after a week and a half and no package. When they actually sent it, only took 3 days. Seems like when you place your order online, it gets overlooked. Call them.

For anyone debating the BL, next to and in conjunction with the PML, it is awsome. Good inexpensive way to get some lift and make room for bigger tires.

LOL. Dude, I'm saving up for a pup and a house. Both of which you've got me beat by.

Speaking of which, you've got to get the pooch in the new profile pic.

Received the body pucks today via Fed Ex, they shipped directly from Preformance Accessories, not SportzTrailers.

When I went to Ace, they did not have the 7/16" Nylock nuts grade 8, but had two others that I got. 7/16" grade 8 nut and 7/16" locking nut(not grade 8). Would I be able to use either, or what the guy at Ace suggested was to double up and use both. Any ideas?

The only bolts that I am lacking is the M10 x 1.25 x 160mm bolts. I tried one bolt place in town and no luck.

Cool. Find all the bolts yet?

Skaggs396, I have tried the 4 bolt co. in town to find the M10 x 1.25 x 160mm bolt. Was the place you got yours a local or national chain? I asked them if it could be special ordered and they told me no. Any ideas?

I think it's just a local bolt company. They had several in stock. Cost me $26.88 including tax for 2. I'm surprised you can't find the M10's. The M12's are the tough ones to get.

It's called J&E Supply and Fastener Co. If you can't find them elsewhere call them at 405-670-1234. Maybe they can ship some to you. But call around there locally where you are and I imagine you'll find them

xkahn, find those M10's yet?

Nope, I have not had time to check anymore this week. Planning to do it tomorrow. Now I am just lacking the 10mm bolts, both sizes.

Try McMaster-Carr

They've got all that crap.

Nope. They only have up to 120mm. Dude, if all else fails, I'll go pick you a pair of those M10's and mail them to you.

Kudos to those who made their own BL kit...

I'm interested in ~1in BL only (I think someone here did 1.25in), but not interested in taking the time to make my own pucks and track down all the hardware.

So, my question is could you take the AC 2in BL kit and simply cut the pucks down from 2in to 1in ? Would there be problems with the bolts in the kit being too long then ? Thanks for any thoughts on this.

Why just 1"? 2" is great and very easy. Everything is established for a 2" BL like the Shrockworks 2" BL versions of bumpers and sliders. Plus, will just 1" give you enough to run 33's?

But to answer your question, cutting is not necessary. Just buy These 1" pucks. Then get bolts 1" shorter than the ones we have listed for the 2" BL. (page 3 of this thread near the bottom). Then you'll really save some cash. Don't waste your money modifying the AC kit.

1" = 25.4mm. The M12 x 1.25 bolts I got for the 2" BL were 170mm. So the ones you would get for 1" would just need to be 145mm. Likewise, the M10 x 1.25 x 160 bolts would need to be only 135mm. The 7/16" ones 5" long (grade 8) and the safety loop bolts that are M10 x 1.25 x 80mm on the 2" would translate into M10 x 1.25 x 55mm. You get the idea now.

All those in those lengths you need for 1" would be a bit easier to find than the ones I got (but were not that hard to find anyway). A trip to the hardware store, ordering the pucks online and maybe ordering the metric bolts is super easy and totally worth saving $100 or more!

http://www.mettec.com/motosport.htm

has TITANIUM bolts in that size.



Yeah - 2" BL is fine...hardly worth doing 1" anyway...all the accessories are for 2" BL's.

Metric Specialties in Burbank, CA.

metricspecialties.com.

I've ordered there before with good results and service.

I just got off the phone with mettec.com, they want $19.95 each for the M10 x 1.25 x 75mm bolts, and $36.00 each for the M10 x 1.25 x 160mm bolts, plus shipping!

Skaggs, sent you a PM.

That's outrageous. the 75mm ones should be about $2 at any hardware store. I got the 160mm ones for $12.88 each at a local shop called J & E Supply. 405-670-1234.

EDITED TO ADD: I just realized you were talking about mettec. Dude, those are titanium bolts! Of course they are going to be F'n expensive

All you need is steel.

skaggs396,
I Called Jand E and they told me that the bolts were going to be $3.XX each. I thought that you said it was about $12 each bolt for the m10 x 1.25 x 160mm. Any ideas?

Yeah, they were. Either they quoted you the wrong length bolt, or I got screwed. I doubt if your gonna get those bolts for $3.xx. Maybe a 60mm one.

Okay, finally ordered the last part today. I called J and E in OKC, OK and this time they told me that it was $12.40 a bolt. I do not know what the girl looked up the last time, I even was trying to double check the bolt size with her too. I have to add about $5 bucks for shipping. Now I just need to find time to complete it, and a couple of extra hands to help.

skaggs396,
Did you use a certain thickness for the bumper bracket? Also, I didn't think that you would but-do you have to use the bumper bracket plus the 1/2 tubes that were also used in this thread?

Hopefully I will be able to get this completed this weekend. I think that my total cost was about $114.

Thanks for all the help.

I think the brackets I made are 1/8." No, you dont do both, just one or the other. Just 2" hole to stud to relocate the bumper brackets.

Here's some help for you folks about to get the pucks:

www.Sportztrailers.com accepts paypal. Paypal has a promotion where you get back $15 if you spend $30. Paypal rebate

I've e-mailed a guy named Josh at Sportztrailers three times for a cost on shipping ten body lift blocks.

Each time he gets back to me asking for a phone number so that he can calculate shipping costs. I give him my number and then never hear from him again. :rolleyes:

I don't like to buy anything that has to be shipped, without first finding out what the shipping is going to be, so I've pretty much given up on Sportztrailers.

okay, i finally put the body lift on last weekend. i just need to adjust the bumpers and I needed to cut the area so that 4lo will work. I cut a piece about the size of the one pictured in this thread, but I am still unable to shift into 4lo.

My question is, do I have to cut into the rubber boot as well? This is the only thing that I can think that may be keeping it from 4lo. Any suggestions would be great.

Thanks

Update: For all you guys looking to put together your own 2 inch body lift, I think I found a place to get the M12 X 180mm bolt online. Only problem is that they don't specify the pitch, so it might be course thread instead of fine. Linky

The bolt is number 12 on the schematic.

So what do ya think, is it fine or course?

That would be really good if it was indeed 1.25 pitch. Call them and see.

I tried. The bitches weren't very helpful. They didn't really understand the concept of "pitch" on a bolt. So I tried the fine/course route and they simply said "can't help ya" Maybe I will remove the frame bolt on my CBR and see if it is course or fine??? I would assume honda makes all their frame bolts the same course??

Keep ya posted

Once again, thanks for the heads up on this subject! I have been meaning to do a body lift for quite a while on the cheap and this thread got me started. THe website listed said sold out, but if you go to their ebay store they have them. I just bought the 10 I needed off an auction that said they had 32 avaliable. So now it's 22 if two more people want to hop on! Here is the link to their store http://stores.ebay.com/SPORTZTRAILERS Just click on "suspension" in the menu on the left and look through what comes up until you find the pucks.

Just an alternative for those of us that shop primarily when most stores are closed and you can't call.

Dont forget that if you use PayPal, you can get a $15 rebate. Make the pucks $20!

well, i went looking for the nuts and bolts after work today. nobody in town has them. looks like im just gona order the whole kit from AC. its to much trouble trying to piece it together.

Just finished assembling my kit today, that is when the bolts I ordered arrive friday. There is a place down here by me in MD that I got the two M10 x 160 x 1.25 and the M12 x 180 x 1.25 for about 34 bucks including shipping. She said they have to order a minimum of 10 of each type so there will be some extra that show up if anyone is interested. Just an update for those having issues finding bolts I suppose.

Why bother with metric bolts...$34 is steep. I put standard thread bolts in, wrenched up tight, only cost about $10 for the 4 of them. Even checked the metric ones till will thread in as well. Don't plan on taking them out anyway so who cares if they are metric or standard.

When you get the 2" BL in, Is it necesary to relocate or move anything in the steering or radiator???

After you cut that part, is there anywhere else that you need to trim??

don't move the radiator... just remove the lower fan shroud. Also don't remove the steering shaft, just loosen the bolts and let it slide. this will save you a huge amount of aggravation and work.

[/qb][/QUOTE]After you cut that part, is there anywhere else that you need to trim??[/QB][/QUOTE]

Nope. that should be enough...and the rubber boot covers alot of area...
Make sure you try it, 4Low, before you put everything back together.
Hope this helps

I removed the lower fan piece, but never did anything to the steering... I wonder if that can be causing some of the components and the bushings in my steering system to go damange?

I'm going to cut that piece this weekend, I've been having a hard time shifting to 4low.

BTW, has anyone had problems with their front wheels not having the same distance from the palce where it rubs at the time of a turn to the wheel. If this is not clear I will post some pics.

Thanx

Could be.



If you mean your left/right turn clearance is different, that's normal, as the stuff it would rub on is different on each side too.

Your turn stop bolts are adjustable though, and you can fine tune the full lock left/right limits to what ever you want.

There's 2 turnstop bolts per side....4 total.

This is what I mean...
Driver side.


Passenger side.




The other side is where I'm getting all the problems... look


I have the 2"BL and PML, i'm running 265/75-16, and when they are new... It rubs alot, also parts like Idler arm, tie rods, bushings, etc... Parts like that are dameging.

Hopefully your other thread is going to help your wheel problem. Got my kit together now.

10 & 12 mm bolts - 35$
Pucks - 30$
Rest of Hardware - 30$

So, minus the labor time and the whole 7 dollars per hour for the lift on my military base, the kit cost me a whopping 100 dollars.

Install is in 3 days so hopefully it all goes well. If anyone needs the 10/12mm bolts, try a company called "Lindstrom Metric" out of Chicago. That's where my local bolt place ordered them from.

Well, that's a bummer. Just went to order the bolts and the local places are out. Have to try a few of the other sources listed here.

Just as an fyi...I haven't tried ordering the pucks yet, but it looks like four wheel parts also lists them separately for a few bucks each on their website, so there looks to be another option in case sportztrailers is out.

A guy I know just ordered the odd bolts from a local source, minimum order of 10...so they'll have a few extras if you hurry.