I searched for this - thought I should find something, but didn't.

We got 5 inches of snow today (I live up a mountain). When I got to the slippery slope, I shifted into 4 High, stopped, in neutral. When I pulled into my driveway, I turned into the yard (only place to turn around) and tried to back into my garage. There was ice beneath the snow, normally this is not a problem.

The 4 High light was lit, but I couldn't move (and it was flat ground). I pulled down the driver side window and as I gave it a little gas - I heard the left front wheel clicking like a baseball card in a bike wheel (increased with revs, decreased with revs). 4 Low was no different.

I am guessing that my auto hub has failed.

Any advice?

I'm getting it yanked out tomorrow so I can look it over.

Thanks for any help and I apologize if this has been covered before.

Bob

In most cases, the “ratcheting” noise sometimes heard in auto-lock
free-running hubs occurs when one hub is locked and the opposite
hub is unlocked. The noise is heard in the side opposite to the
locked hub. For example, if the noise is heard at the left front wheel,
the right front hub is still locked and is not unlocking. This condition
may be caused by a mechanical condition in one of the hubs
or by incorrect operation on the part of the vehicle driver, for
example by not backing up in a straight line to unlock the hubs, by
not backing up enough, or by shifting into 4WD at too high a vehicle
speed, etc.
The ratcheting noise does not necessarily cause damage to the
good hub. If the noise is caused by incorrect operation, counsel the
driver of the vehicle. If replacement is necessary, replace only the
defective parts. It is not necessary to replace auto-lock free-running
hubs in pairs.

TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS FOR NOISE
Ratchet noise in hub after shifting the transfer
case into 4WD at speeds higher than 40 km/h
(25 mph).
1. Shifting into 4WD at higher
speeds is difficult and may
cause damage to transfer case
1. Stop the vehicle or decrease speed to
less than 40 km/h (25 mph). Return
the transfer case lever to the 2H position
once, then re-shift to the 4H position.
Move forward until the hubs lock.

Ratchet noise in hub after shifting or attempting
to shift the transfer case into 4WD at speeds
less than 40 km/h (25 mph).
1. Transfer case was not fully
engaged or shifting was stopped
halfway so that only one hub
locked
1. Make sure the 4WD lamp on the dash
is ON; when shifting into 4WD. Slow
or stop the vehicle. Shift into 2H, then
back to 4H. Move forward until the
hubs lock.

Ratchet noise in hub after shifting the transfer
case into 4WD on snowy or muddy roads or on
slopes.
1. If the rear wheels slip during the
hub locking operation, noise can
occur in the hubs
1. Reduce engine speed and drive forward
slowly. The hubs will lock evenly
and the noise will stop.

Ratchet noise in hub when driving in extremely
cold weather.
1. The viscosity of differential oil
grows higher in extreme cold,
increasing the possibility that
one hub may lock. A lower viscosity
differential fluid may be
required for extreme cold temperatures.
See owner’s manual
1. Shift the transfer case into 4H and
drive the vehicle for 10 minutes or
more to warm the differential oil. Then
shift to 2WD and back up in a straight
line for at least 2-3 meters (7-10 feet)
to disengage the hubs.

Continual ratchet noise in one wheel when moving
forward.
1. A hub may be mechanically
locked either by damage or
misinstallation
1. Remove hubs and inspect. Pay special
attention to the hub opposite the noisy
side. The ratcheting does not necessarily
cause damage to the good hub.


Brent

Thanks Brent - Going to the dealer tomorrrow. Hopefully this is just a hub replacement. Wish I had the time to investigate it myself.

Thanks again for the response.

Bob :p

Just picked up the truck from the dealer. The failed hub was covered by warranty (60K - Drivetrain). Too bad this is the second time this has happened. I think I will go to manual hubs. Thanks for the help.

Bob