Who here has removed their resonator box. What sort of performance gains have you noticed from doing it, if any at all. I'm thinking of taking it out sometime today.

do you mean just removing the bottom part of the intake assembley? If thats what your reffering to there isn't any gain HP wise that is,but it will give you a little more of a growl under your hood....

Here is a picture of where it is, after being plugged up. (Picture taken from SolarTony of TUNFS)

Okay. Took it off and replaced it with a 2" plug I got from Home Depot. No performance gain, but their is slightly more rumble at idle, and a little deeper roar at WOT. Took about 15 minutes to do. If you want a little more sound, do it.

Removing the resonator from the driver side fender will yield the best results.

How hard is it to remove the fender resonator? I was looking at pics of the process. Is removing the wheel required?

I didn't have to remove the wheel. I just turned the steering wheel to the right and removed some of the wheel well and fender well splash guards bolts/clips.

The part that is a major PITA is taking the bolt off of the resonator that is underneath the ABS pump. If I were you, I would try that bolt first to make sure you can get it off then remove the easy bolt near the front!!

You will be amazed how big this resonator is. Anyways, it breathes much better now.

What were those Nissan engineers thinking??

Did you use a ratchet or a wrench set. I don't know if there is enough room to fit the ratchet in there. Were the bolts 10mm? I remember reading that somewhere.

It ran to Home Depot to get a plug for the radiator resonator, and it was too dark by the time I got back to do any work. Looking at that part, I don't see any use for it at all. It seems to small to do anything.

Would you care to explain how removing the resonator (which doesn't impede airflow in any way) makes the engine breath better ?

Taco,

A wrench is definately needed. A ratchet won't work. Hopefully, if you get the bolt loose, you can do the rest with your fingers.

XOC,

We are talking about the resonator located in the fender above the wheel, on the driver side. Not the resonator connected to the intake tube in the engine compartment or the one connected to the top of the radiator, right?? Because there are basically three resonators, not just one.

If you look at the bottom of the stock air box, there are TWO large holes that lead into the fender. One hole is where the intake gets the outside air, which is also where the IAT sensor is connected to. The other hole is for the large resonator that does not allow air flow because it is just a large, enclosed box. If you remove this resonator, it basically doubles the amount of cold air capable of entering the intake.

That's why I want to know why there are three resonators and not just one. The resonators located inside the fender and the one that extends above the radiator seem unnecessary.

I hope I am making myself clear. AG Bullet has a pic of all the resonators removed.

Could the resonator(s) configuration be different for N/A and SC??

The reason there are three resonators is that the Nissan engineers put them there. Basicly who cares? They probably did tests and the resonators lowered the sound half a decible and they decided that the quieter ride would seel more Xterra's offsetting the extra $.03 it costs to put on the Xterra.

If you want to increase airflow don't worry about the resonator chambers they don't do crap. Buy a K&N FIPK. It actually will make a difference.

I'm pretty sure everything about the NA and SC engine's are the same, except for the addition of the super charger and it's mechanical needs. The intake area is in the exact same place as well. They all have 3 resonators. When the engine is drawing in air, it's sucking in from 4 different places, of varying volumes. Reduce that to one intake, and there would, theoretically, be more "suck" power coming through. There would also be less restriction since there is only one inlet for intake. The less restriction, the more efficient the engine runs, and the more power you get. I'm not saying removing the resonator boxes will gain you 10, 5, or even 3hp. But I can definitely feel the difference after removing just TWO of them. The 3rd resonator box has at least 2-3 times the volume of the other two combined. It should help. Every little bit of power helps.

Plus, this will settle until I order my Airaid intake in the next week or two. I wonder if K&N will let me buy the intake tube from the FIPK seperately, I don't want to make my own...

I had misunderstood, since the resonator after the filter was being plugged after removing it. I thought you guys were plugging the the hole in the airbox for the fender resonator as well.

First off i would love to see any pics...

Secondly would it also be even more benficial to not only block off the 2 after the airbox, but actually plug them inside as well, ( my thoughts are to not allow a little cranny to distract the air, create more of a smoothe strait shot through the intake, similar to the smoothe tube of the KN)

So not only cap it but stuff it with something..

Kind of like when you blow across a wine bottle corked no noise smoothe sailing... Uncorked makes noise diverts the air flow..

That's a good idea, but if you want a straight through pipe, you're going to have to make your own, get the FIPK, or somehow get the tube from K&N. I'm going to try and make my own intake sometime soon, after I get my Airaid.

I can take some pics sometime today.

On my old s-10 i ordered a piece of mandrel bent stainless pipe from summit racing. I then painted it with a ceramic insulated paint to help keep the heat down. For hose hookups you can use rubber grommits form home depot. There is also a better description of this in http://www.teamdelsol.com/ under info and how tos: How To: Make your own cold air intake

I disconnectred the fender esonator, about to do the pull and plug on the one above the air box.

The one by the IAT sensor. I am thinking about running another hose down toward the bottom of the truck: resoning, if the iat reads cooler air from the outside truck runs better.-----Thoughts????

Oh how does the fender resonator come out??? Through wheel well?

http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=2291157&uid=1130031

Instructions on how to remove the fender resonator. I couldn't get the ABS pump out, I'm gonna have to get at least 6 inches of socket extensions just to reach the last bolt.

I'm not completely sure of it, but when the temp sensor detects cooler air, doesn't it inject more fuel than if hot air? Don't quote me on this. The area it is in is fine for now.

I decided i am going to leave that one there. instead of removal i am going to plug up the end of it and stick it back into the intake hose. This way it will keep the factoy look, plug up the hole perfectly and not restrict the airflow any longer.

Also looked like a real PITA to get out.

I just twisted the resonator box back and forth until the plastic tore around the mounting bolt.

Heh. I'm real anal about keeping things neat though, I always wan't to be able to put it back if I have to. Also, I'm bringing my truck in to the dealer this friday to get a new hoodliner (they broke my old one installing a new MAF sensor), could there be any problems with the dealer with not having the resonator boxes, and having those holes plugged up?

Here's a pic of the resonator removed from the inner drivers side fender well (notice the TWO opening for air to enter:

http://www.grovestreet.com/jsp/onepic.jsp?id=115897

Here's a picture of the resonator itself:

http://www.grovestreet.com/jsp/onepic.jsp?id=115896

And here are pictures of the other two openings that are now plugged up from the underhood resonators (don't use plastic for the intake opening, it will melt!):

http://www.grovestreet.com/jsp/onepic.jsp?id=115894

http://www.grovestreet.com/jsp/onepic.jsp?id=117372

Are you talking about the one in the intake after the filter box? If so, why not use plastic? The original resonator box was cheap flimsy plastic, and now I'm using a thick plastic cleanout/cap piece to keep it plugged. I have a hard time believing that will melt when the original resonator box didn't.

if you use pvc it will def. not melt under the hood. have you taken a look under your hood lately? PLASTIC! everywhere

Just to let everyone know; to plug up the radiator resonator's hole, use a 1" expansion plug. For the resonator in the engine compartment between the MAF and throttle body, use a 1 3/4" expansion plug. 2" will fit, but it can pop out. I caught my 2" right before the rubber seal came out. Had maybe 1-2mm inside the piping. Put the 1 3/4" in today, and it hasn't budged.

To get at the one on top of the fender, just remove the large gold-tone bracket between the airbox and ABS sensor, it's easy to get to then.

Brent