Unless you are physically disabled or have no free time, there is no reason why you should not be able to do it. Before yesterday, I never crawled under a car– now I am looking for reasons to work on the X!

With me running back and forth into the house from the cul-de-sac, I was able to change the oil and the filter in less than 90 minutes – time I would have spent waiting at the stealership for their techs to do it. With the Xterra, there is really not much work involved, since there is no need to jack the car up.

My only complaint was my need to use channel locks to wrench off the oil filter. The dealer techs really locked it on there… which is wild since everyone (including Nissan in the service manual) leaves me with the impression that it should be just be hand-tightened.

Thanks to all of you who encouraged me to do it – I had a pizza dinner with the fiancée with the money I put away for the oil change ($40 + tax) after deducting the parts and consumables( Mobil 1 Filter, oil, ratchet set, pan, drain plug, and crush washer – about $33 or so when it was all said and done). Next time we can go to chain restaurant with the savings!

MJ

I used to do it in high school, I don't remember what we did with the oil. What do you do with the used oil these days?

Take it to the nearest Autozone and they will recycle it for you. I don't know if the other auto parts stores do it (o'reliey, pepboys, ect.) but autozone shoud. They all do in Texas.

they do here in georgia too. i just walk around to the back and dump it in 'big blue'...the old oil container.

try this while the truck is still hot loosen the oil filter before draining the oil . it really helps

I left my used oil container in my parking spot (apt building). Now it's gone. What the hell would somebody want with used oil?

Now that you know what you're doing you should be able to change it in 20 minutes or less.... really easy. (EDIT - no reason to rush though... better to take your time and do it right. This is why I do my own oil... 'cause I know it was done properly and that some schmuck didn't put 5 quarts in there)

I've always put my filters on until the o-ring (which I rub with a little bit of the oil first) first makes contact - and then 1/2 to 3/4 turn further. I have never had to use a wrench to remove them and they've never leaked a drop.

Oil is easy to get rid of... it's antifreeze that nobody will take.

That is what I did... only I did not have to go around the back ... you can walk through the store to get to it.

I learned that when I did the coolant change on the X and fronty last fall. It seems like the parts store used to have a used oil drum AND a tank for old coolant years ago but not anymore. I checked with the local county environmental office and found out that their wastewater treatment plant can handle the stuff just fine and they actually want us to dump it down the drain. (Better than on the ground no doubt)

I know a bunch of tree huggers are going to start screaming right about now - so I included a link to my local gov environmental web site. Take it from them.

http://jced.jocogov.org/hazardous_materials/Household/disposal_and_recycling.htm

Hey, I like the enviroment too, but I also love to work on my vehicles myself.

Now a question for you all. I have about 2-gal of old tranny fluid to recycle. Can it be recylcled with the used oil -or does it need to be kept seperate?

I am sure that I could have gotten it done in under an hour if I had bought out everything I needed in one container or crate. I went back once for channel locks, once for the plug and washer, and once for my safety glasses. Next time I will try and do it by the numbers.. I am sure that it will be much quicker.

MJ

Tips from a guy with multiple vehicles to maintain:

1. Always keep an extra filter in the tool chest.
2. Buy the oil in the 5qt containers it's easier to recycle that way. (since the X only needs 3.5 qts I always keep 2 on hand.) I'm usually emptying the first container, opening the second, and then using the empty first contontainer for the old stuff.
3. Get A little of that non-skid tape you use on boat steps and bath tubs stick it to the inside of the filter wrench - works great.
4. I keep an old rubbermaid tub in the garage to store the drain pan and big funnel in so I don't have to wipe them down after each use.
5. Those Fram sure-drain things works great. It's slower to drain, but keeps me from stripping out the threads on the plug and/or pan. (I tend to be a bit heavy handed with the wrench.)
6. while you're down there check the belts/hoses.

When I purchased my X the dealership gave me a lifetime of FREE oil changes. I have had the oil changed 4 times by the dealer. Each time I have dropped the X off and they have given me a loaner vehicle when I needed one. In the past I have always changed my own oil. This is a welcomed break.

Holy crap... I wonder if that is true for my area (antifreeze down the drain, that is).

As far as the auto fluid - it counts as oil (same with diff fluid) and can be dumped in with the rest of the used oil (there is a list near the oil dump at my Autozone that lists what can be included and it specifically lists auto fluid.

I looked on my city's website... they have a hazardous waste collection program that includes antifreeze... you call them to schedule a pickup and it has to be properly labeled etc. I'd really rather just drop it off somewhere but whatever :rolleyes:

With two or three more changes under your belt, you'll be able to do them in the dark. I've got the routine down pat enough that I snuck my last change in out in the driveway after dark without dragging my trouble light out to the driveway.

Haven't done this myself, but will be attempting once I'm due for a change. I was reading the Haynes Manual and it does seem quite simple.

Couple of questions I did have are is a filter wrench required? I have seen alot of people speak of hand-tightening the filters and was wondering if I should spend money on a wrench when I could do it by hand.

Also, what is a breaker bar exactly? The Haynes Manual says to use a breaker bar to remove the drain plug, but am not sure as to how they work. Saw one at lowes briefly, but how to use it didn't register with me.

Lastly, since a 2KX takes 3.5 quarts of oil (believe that is right), why is the reason you check the oil level after changing it? If you add 3.5 quarts of oil, would there ever be a situation where you would be required to add more? If so, what would be the estimated max?

Noobie001

Noobie001

I'm waiting till its not -20 outside to do mine. Just so I can do it on weekend and not mess a workday to go to the dealer.

Can't wait to give another coat of wax as well.

If it is on too tight, you can get it off using a big pair of ChannelLock pliers, or possibly grab it with a rubber disc that you use to get lids off of jars. As a final resort, you can shove a Phillips head screwdriver through the side of the filter (near the bottom, not near the engine) and twist it off that way. Check to see if you can do it by hand, first.

You only need a wrench to get a stubborn filter off. Putting it on is just hand tight. It'll seal fine and you can get it off the next time.

Kinda like a socket wrench without ratchet part. I always use a 3/8" ratchet with a 14mm socket on it.

I don't usually check it right away (you want to run the engine for about a minute after filling it, then shut it off and wait a few minutes before checking the level).

However, I've known a couple of people that dumped a few quarts of oil into an engine, checked the dipstick and wondered why it wasn't near full. Then, they found that they forgot to replace the oil pan drain plug. Happens to the best of 'em sometimes.

FWIW Old drain oil kills the crap out of poison ivy in my back yard.

Tom

So, have they figured out what causes CWD up there yet?

The breaker bar is just a loooong handle for a socket so you can get a whole lot of leverage to "break" loose a really tight bolt. You'll also hear about "cheater" bars - which are extensions (often just a short piece of pipe) that you slip over the breaker bar to make it even longer for more leverage.

You should NOT need to use one to take out the drain plug though (and for God's sake don't put it back IN with one). It shouldn't have that much torque on it.... just good and snug so that the oil can't leak out.

The really weird one is when you change your differential fluid. You just stick the head of a 1/2" ratchet directly in the fill/drain plugs (in that order ).

Funny you should mention that... I just picked up an extra filter last night. I use the Mobil 1 filter, and the size that the X uses is fairly popular with the motorcycle crowd.. so AutoZone can't keep it on the shelf. After hunting like a wildman last time, I've resolved to just buy a handful (one at a time since that is all there ever is on the shelf) until I have a small set. I would love to do a group buy from a distributor, but I don't know if there is enough interest.

I will have to keep that in mind. I am still breaking in the engine, and the Dino Oil that I am using (Mobil Clean 5000) does not seem to come in 5 qt. containers. Once I move to synth oil (somewhere north of 10K) I will try it your way

I didn't remember to buy a filter wrench until after I took the skid plate off. So I used plan B - the channel locks. Since I hand-tightened the filter, I don't think I will need to get one (unless the next car I get needs it).

Funny you should mention that... that is exactly what I am using to hold the "drain oil" supplies.

Clearly we are on the same wavelength. The only thing I discovered while I was down there was that the undercarriage needs to be washed again.

MJ

Makes sense to me. Thanks!!!!

the mobil one filter is freakin $12 here!!! i'm going back to fram after this oil change...

http://www.earth911.org/master.asp

(anti-freeze)
http://www.earth911.org/master.asp?s=ls&cat=9&serviceid=3&type=-1

Based on what I have read, you can't get much better in terms of filtration ability.

I am trying to find out how much of that price (I pay $11) is profit and how much is cost to the retailer. Assuming that there is a good margin (and I would assume that there is) I would start buying by the case and selling off my excess. I am waiting to hear back from someone at Mobil to find out what the deal is...

Thanks for the clarifications!

Noobie001

What does everybody recommend for:
1) brand of oil filter
2) brand of oil?

And how often do you change it?

1) Nissan
2) I use Valvoline, but any major brand 5W-30 will do.

I change mine every 5,000 miles as my use doesn't fall under "severe use" as defined in the owners manual.

Nissan filters are $6, half the price of the mobil 1 filter. Just buy a few at a time along with the copper washers you need for the drain plug.

I agree.. I got tired of all the "this filter sucks and that filter is great"... "No - they're both made by the same company! This OTHER filter is better"....

so I just buy Nissan filters from Nissan. Maybe it is not the absolute best on the market... but it can't be a POS can it?

I use Valvoline SynPower 10W30 in my X (for no particular reason) and Mobil1 ('cause I hear it is the best) in my S2000 (along with Honda filters).

Oil Filter: Mobil 1 (M1-110)
Yes, the Nissan Filter is good too, but why not get the best that Champion Labs has to offer?

Oil: Pre 10k (full break-in) : Mobil Dino (Clean 5000)

Post 10k: Mobil 1 Synthetic

Yes, I am pro-Mobil

I've only had to do it once so far, but I am looking to do it every 3000 miles.

MJ

Please explain further what these are for and why you have to go ahead and buy a few

Noobie001

These are for sealing the drain plug. I buy a few at a time so I don't have to go to the dealer or order one for every oil change. They also fit the transmission oil drain plug.

They don't seem to be critical... so don't freak out if you didn't put one on (or didn't even notice the old one on there)... but it's a good idea to go ahead and use 'em in the future.

I haven't changed it myself yet, going to do that next time I need one. I just want to be sure I know of everything I'll need beforehand and have it all together.

Where do I get them and what would I ask for? Probably would go to auto parts store instead of dealership (further away) if possible.

Also, is there anything else I should go ahead and buy just to be safe like a spare gasket or anything?

Noobie001

You don't need a new copper washer -- especially if you follow the torque specification for the drain plug. I've had many vehicles with the copper washer and I just make sure it looks good and go from there. My 95 Altima has 110,000 miles and I've changed the oil myself every 3000 miles but I think I've only changed the washer once -- because the dealer said I needed one when I bought the filter.

I also use manufacturers oil filters -- I don't believe the marketing hype around Mobil 1 filters -- although I like their oil.

They're called "crush washers".

To change the oil you need:
1) Oil filter
2) Crush washer (if available)
3) 4 quarts of oil (3.5 to be exact)
4) 10mm wrench/socket to remove the 6 bolts on the stock "skidplate" (LOTS of people have snapped the heads off of those bolts - be careful)
5) Socket/wrench for the drain plug (14mm? I forget)
6) Something to catch the old oil in
7) A bunch of paper towels
8) A (clean) funnel is nice - but not required

My super-anal procedure (hey, I'm an engineer :p ):
1) Pop the hood, remove the oil fill cap, then get under the front end and start taking off any necessary skidplates etc. Position a catch pan under the oil pan (not to be confused with the transmission drain pan. The tranny pan is further back and is large and flat. The oil pan is smaller and further forward).
2) Remove the drain plug and watch the oil start dumping out (you will get a nice splash of it on your hands... have a couple of paper towels (or better yet, those blue shop towels... they rock!). It goes a bit better if the truck is warm (oil will flow out a little better - but not required... 'course you're more likely to burn yourself) and if it is not windy (oil will get everywhere as it drains).
3) After oil has stopped flowing from the pan (there is always a little stream still trickling out... at some point you have to call it "good enough"), wipe off the drain plug, put a new crush washer (if available) on it (remembering to remove the old one first and note which way it goes on), and put the plug back in place on the oil pan. Tighten it down until it is good and snug - but not too tight (I forget the torque spec... it's not very important anyway - it's not under any pressure or anything.... the idea is just to get it tight enough so it won't back out or leak but not so tight that you start stretching threads or damaging anything)

4) Move your catch pan forward so that it is underneath the oil filter.

5) Grab the oil filter and unscrew it by hand (just like any other screw). If someone else put it on, it may require an oil filter wrench - but I've always been able to remove mine by hand. As you remove it, oil will start to come out around it... try not to make a mess . Dump the contents into your catch pan, drop the whole filter in there... whatever.

6) Use a paper towel or two to clean off the mount where the filter goes... particularly the shiny ring where the rubber o-ring on the new filter will make contact.

7) Get your new filter and a quart of oil. Start filling the filter up with oil (this takes awhile - you fill it up and it starts being absorbed... and then you put in a little more... and then a little more etc etc etc) Overall a Nissan filter will take nearly a half quart of oil. Dip your (clean) finger into the new oil and rub it around the o-ring on the new filter to get a coat of oil on it.

8) Screw the new filter onto the filter mount (being careful not to dump the oil that you just put in it everywhere). It will screw on very easily and at some point you will be able to feel that the o-ring has made contact with the surface that it mates to. Once it has made contact, tighten the filter another 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn (Once it makes contact, I note where my thumb is on the filter - and then turn it until my thumb is 180 degrees (or a little more) from where it was)

9) Get up, and start pouring oil into the oil fill tube in the engine compartment (on the passenger side of the engine). The funnel comes in handy here. It takes *exactly* 3.5 quarts. I don't even bother with that pour-a-little and then check it and then pour a little more garbage anymore. I just dump in 3.5.
10) Check it with the dipstick to make sure there is *something* in there - i.e. you didn't forget to put the drain plug back in or something (don't bother adjusting the level right now.. you need to start and let the oil cycle through the engine and filter a couple of times before you can get a true level. The dip stick on these trucks is awful... you have to look at all four sides of the tip and try to guess the correct level (generally you go by the side that is the lowest). It is also difficult to see new oil because it is so clear. Put the oil fill cap back on.
11) Start the truck up and let it run for 30 seconds or a minute.. Get out and check under the truck to make sure the oil filter and drain plug aren't leaking
12) Stop the truck, wait a minute or two, and recheck the oil a few times to make sure it is at the right level (halfway on the dipstick). Add more oil if necessary (remember, though, that too much oil can be just as bad as too little.. but in general if you keep it within the limits of the dipstick you won't have any trouble).

13) Close the hood, put the skidplate back on, clean up, dump the used oil at Auto Zone, and you're done

And how often do you change it?[/qb][/QUOTE]Oil Filter: Mobil 1 (M1-110)
Yes, the Nissan Filter is good too, but why not get the best that Champion Labs has to offer?

Oil: Pre 10k (full break-in) : Mobil Dino (Clean 5000)

Post 10k: Mobil 1 Synthetic

Yes, I am pro-Mobil

I've only had to do it once so far, but I am looking to do it every 3000 miles.

MJ[/QB][/QUOTE]

Yes, you are an expert because you've changed your oil a total of one time. That's why there is this worthless thread in 3 different websites. Thanks for sharing your expertise, somebody kill this thread allready

You can avoid making a mess when you remove the old filter if you put a zip-lock baggie around it after you've loosened it a few turns but before the oil can escape. Then, when the oil splats out, it all goes into the baggie. Which you can then pour off into the drain pan or just zip-lock it right up with the filter and throw the whole thing out.

[Disclosure: I cannot take credit for this idea because another member suggested it first but I can't remember who.]

Another good reason to change oil yourself:

Just because I have changed it once doesn't mean I don't know d*ck about oil or filters. Do you know who has changed my oil for the past 5 years?

Stop being a hater and go read a book or drive your truck. BTW, this was reposted on one other site, not two.

MJ

I'd buy the filter wrench. Things seem to have a way of tightening up over time. Plus it's just quicker & easier.

A breaker bar can be a number of things such as a piece of pipe, screwdriver, etc. It's basically a bar that you use in combination with a wrench as leverage on stubborn bolts.

Lastly you always check your oil levels because you want to make sure you have the proper amount of oil in there. Sure, it says 3.5 quarts but on other vehicles I have seen it take a hair more or less to get it to the full line. Also, it's a little difficult to guage a 1/2 quart. Also, don't forget to check oil periodically besides at oil changes. While most the time you won't need to add any between oil changes, it is possible. Also, if your levels get low too fast it's a tell tale sign that you have a leak or the engine is burning too much oil.

FWIW I have never (actually once on a Honda) changed the copper washer on any vehicle I have ever owned and I have never experienced a oil leak from the drain plug.

Tom

OK, now that made me

I can't remember the last time I actually took my car in to have the oil changed. I've been doing it myself for so long now....

Same here. I'm going on about the 15th oil change I've done on my Xterra and it's never leaked a dribble. 25+changes on my Frontier and the same thing.

NAPA auto parts here in fl take all the used oil u can giv-autozone also

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned this yet, but check out:

www.cleanburn.com

These furnaces (there are other brands as well) burn used oil (crankcase, ATF, cooking oil from mcdonalds even, etc) and people will advertise to get free oil from people. Maybe thas why they took it...Free heat! When I finally get a house, Im considering getting one of these to heat the garage...

I enjoyed an engineers way of doing this BUT I am glad he checks the dipstick becaues my math says " if I put a half a quart in the filter then 3.5 qts. in the engine I now have overfilled it and have put 4 quarts in. Half a quart too much?? And he is right it will be hard to see with clean oil on that crappy dipstick.

just wanted to note that i performed my first ever oil change on my xterra over the weekend, thanks to this thread. it went well, the only pain being the removal of the skid plate.

by the way..in NY, it is state law that any place the sells new motor oil, must accept used motor oil..even grocery stores.

Keep in mind the center bolt on the back of the skid plate only has to be loosened. After the removal of the rest of the bolts you can slid the skid right out. Slick of Nissan to build it this way.

I have been using Fram ToughGuard oil filters because it is much easier for me to get to AutoZone then it is to get to a dealership. But when I am near one (and am thinking about it) I will buy the Nissan filter.

I've been using Valvoline 5w-30 motor oil.

FYI: the metal mount around where the filter goes is VERY sharp. Be careful when wiping it with the paper towel. If your finger catches the outside of it you will feel like you received a paper cut -- only the dirt and oil make it worse.

I would recommend some searches on Fram. Not too many speak highly (or even decently) of them. Mainly, low filter surface area and crappy anti-drainback valve.

oil filter study

1) SuperTech oil filters from walmart ($2)
2) Whatever is on sale

Change it every 3000-4000 miles. Done this for many years with no problems.

I finally got around to changing my own oil today. It was a liberating experience.

However, I ran into one problem. 2 of the 6 bolts that hold the splash guard in place broke when I was loosening them. I also noticed that the dealer must have done this at one point as well because there was a broken bolt still in its threads from a previous oil change.

Has anyone else experienced this?

Just changed the oil on my wife's X (2004 - 7500 mile interval) and my X (2002 - 75000 mile interval) last night. I've got it down to a science now. I did my last change on my truck in the dark, and it was fairly dark when I did the change on my wife's truck last night.

I start the oil draining and move to the skid plate. Once it is off and the oil flow has pretty well stopped, I move back and reinstall the drain plug, slide the drain pan forward and do the filter. Pop the skid plate back on and move to the top to fill the crankcase back up. Run engine until oil light goes off, turn off engine. Put everything away, then check the oil level once more for good measure. Close hood, drink beverage.

Only thing I would have done different this last change is to have waited until I got to the auto parts store to buy the oil. I typically get oil at WalMart, then filters and everything else I need at Advance Auto. When I got to Advance, they were running Castrol oil (what I had just bought at WalMart for $1.99 a quart) for $1.48 a quart. Doh!

i just changed mine a couple days ago- and my 2000 v6 only took 3 quarts and it looked to be past the 'full' mark on the dipstick.. hmmmm

the upside: thank you Nissan for placing the filter on the bottom of the engine instead of the side like most domestics Ive owned! makes for such an easier change..

whitenblue: Did you put oil in the filter before you installed it, or if not, did you run the engine then wait a couple of minutes before you tried to check the level. If you didn't run the engine first the filter would be empty and 3 quarts would look right, but you would then be low after you start the engine and the filter fills up. And yes the dipstick is the most difficult one I have ever tried to read.

Oh, yes, very common. Get a set of screw extractors next time you're at Sears and you can work the broken pieces out and replace with new. Also, put a dab of anti-seize on each bolt and you'll have no problem in the future. Just put them in hand tight, no need to crank them down to death.

Thanks!

Thanks to this thread, I did my own oil change for the first time in my life; on my new (to me) 2K X. It was a snap. I was going to go to the local low-cost lube joint, but balked when they told me that a synthetic change would cost not 14.99 as-advertized, but 59.99 instead. I laughed at the guy, then got myself slightly grubby.

There is nothing to it. No bolts sheared, no spills, and it cost me less than $25 for 3.5 qts of Mobile 1 + a K&N filter... all that in less than 30 minutes.

Anybody use a Fumoto valve? http://www.fumotovalve.com/

Hmm, for some reason I don't think we need to worry about anti-dranback (at least on the 00-04 Xterra's)

I considered it, but decided it wasn't that big of a deal to take the plug out - plus I don't think it will drain as fully.

I had one on my F250 6.0. With 15 quarts of oil, it made a big difference to empty directly into my waste oil containers. Never spilled a drop. Fumoto claims that the valve doesn't intrude into the pan and not let all the oil out. I didn't get oil on my hands taking the plug out with the Fumoto.