Unless you are physically disabled or have no free time, there is no reason why you should not be able to do it. Before yesterday, I never crawled under a car– now I am looking for reasons to work on the X!

With me running back and forth into the house from the cul-de-sac, I was able to change the oil and the filter in less than 90 minutes – time I would have spent waiting at the stealership for their techs to do it. With the Xterra, there is really not much work involved, since there is no need to jack the car up.

My only complaint was my need to use channel locks to wrench off the oil filter. The dealer techs really locked it on there… which is wild since everyone (including Nissan in the service manual) leaves me with the impression that it should be just be hand-tightened.

Thanks to all of you who encouraged me to do it – I had a pizza dinner with the fiancée with the money I put away for the oil change ($40 + tax) after deducting the parts and consumables( Mobil 1 Filter, oil, ratchet set, pan, drain plug, and crush washer – about $33 or so when it was all said and done). Next time we can go to chain restaurant with the savings!

MJ

I used to do it in high school, I don't remember what we did with the oil. What do you do with the used oil these days?

Take it to the nearest Autozone and they will recycle it for you. I don't know if the other auto parts stores do it (o'reliey, pepboys, ect.) but autozone shoud. They all do in Texas.

they do here in georgia too. i just walk around to the back and dump it in 'big blue'...the old oil container.

try this while the truck is still hot loosen the oil filter before draining the oil . it really helps

I left my used oil container in my parking spot (apt building). Now it's gone. What the hell would somebody want with used oil?

Now that you know what you're doing you should be able to change it in 20 minutes or less.... really easy. (EDIT - no reason to rush though... better to take your time and do it right. This is why I do my own oil... 'cause I know it was done properly and that some schmuck didn't put 5 quarts in there)

I've always put my filters on until the o-ring (which I rub with a little bit of the oil first) first makes contact - and then 1/2 to 3/4 turn further. I have never had to use a wrench to remove them and they've never leaked a drop.

Oil is easy to get rid of... it's antifreeze that nobody will take.

That is what I did... only I did not have to go around the back ... you can walk through the store to get to it.

I learned that when I did the coolant change on the X and fronty last fall. It seems like the parts store used to have a used oil drum AND a tank for old coolant years ago but not anymore. I checked with the local county environmental office and found out that their wastewater treatment plant can handle the stuff just fine and they actually want us to dump it down the drain. (Better than on the ground no doubt)

I know a bunch of tree huggers are going to start screaming right about now - so I included a link to my local gov environmental web site. Take it from them.

http://jced.jocogov.org/hazardous_materials/Household/disposal_and_recycling.htm

Hey, I like the enviroment too, but I also love to work on my vehicles myself.

Now a question for you all. I have about 2-gal of old tranny fluid to recycle. Can it be recylcled with the used oil -or does it need to be kept seperate?

I am sure that I could have gotten it done in under an hour if I had bought out everything I needed in one container or crate. I went back once for channel locks, once for the plug and washer, and once for my safety glasses. Next time I will try and do it by the numbers.. I am sure that it will be much quicker.

MJ

Tips from a guy with multiple vehicles to maintain:

1. Always keep an extra filter in the tool chest.
2. Buy the oil in the 5qt containers it's easier to recycle that way. (since the X only needs 3.5 qts I always keep 2 on hand.) I'm usually emptying the first container, opening the second, and then using the empty first contontainer for the old stuff.
3. Get A little of that non-skid tape you use on boat steps and bath tubs stick it to the inside of the filter wrench - works great.
4. I keep an old rubbermaid tub in the garage to store the drain pan and big funnel in so I don't have to wipe them down after each use.
5. Those Fram sure-drain things works great. It's slower to drain, but keeps me from stripping out the threads on the plug and/or pan. (I tend to be a bit heavy handed with the wrench.)
6. while you're down there check the belts/hoses.

When I purchased my X the dealership gave me a lifetime of FREE oil changes. I have had the oil changed 4 times by the dealer. Each time I have dropped the X off and they have given me a loaner vehicle when I needed one. In the past I have always changed my own oil. This is a welcomed break.

Holy crap... I wonder if that is true for my area (antifreeze down the drain, that is).

As far as the auto fluid - it counts as oil (same with diff fluid) and can be dumped in with the rest of the used oil (there is a list near the oil dump at my Autozone that lists what can be included and it specifically lists auto fluid.

I looked on my city's website... they have a hazardous waste collection program that includes antifreeze... you call them to schedule a pickup and it has to be properly labeled etc. I'd really rather just drop it off somewhere but whatever :rolleyes:

With two or three more changes under your belt, you'll be able to do them in the dark. I've got the routine down pat enough that I snuck my last change in out in the driveway after dark without dragging my trouble light out to the driveway.

Haven't done this myself, but will be attempting once I'm due for a change. I was reading the Haynes Manual and it does seem quite simple.

Couple of questions I did have are is a filter wrench required? I have seen alot of people speak of hand-tightening the filters and was wondering if I should spend money on a wrench when I could do it by hand.

Also, what is a breaker bar exactly? The Haynes Manual says to use a breaker bar to remove the drain plug, but am not sure as to how they work. Saw one at lowes briefly, but how to use it didn't register with me.

Lastly, since a 2KX takes 3.5 quarts of oil (believe that is right), why is the reason you check the oil level after changing it? If you add 3.5 quarts of oil, would there ever be a situation where you would be required to add more? If so, what would be the estimated max?

Noobie001

Noobie001

I'm waiting till its not -20 outside to do mine. Just so I can do it on weekend and not mess a workday to go to the dealer.

Can't wait to give another coat of wax as well.

If it is on too tight, you can get it off using a big pair of ChannelLock pliers, or possibly grab it with a rubber disc that you use to get lids off of jars. As a final resort, you can shove a Phillips head screwdriver through the side of the filter (near the bottom, not near the engine) and twist it off that way. Check to see if you can do it by hand, first.

You only need a wrench to get a stubborn filter off. Putting it on is just hand tight. It'll seal fine and you can get it off the next time.

Kinda like a socket wrench without ratchet part. I always use a 3/8" ratchet with a 14mm socket on it.

I don't usually check it right away (you want to run the engine for about a minute after filling it, then shut it off and wait a few minutes before checking the level).

However, I've known a couple of people that dumped a few quarts of oil into an engine, checked the dipstick and wondered why it wasn't near full. Then, they found that they forgot to replace the oil pan drain plug. Happens to the best of 'em sometimes.

FWIW Old drain oil kills the crap out of poison ivy in my back yard.

Tom

So, have they figured out what causes CWD up there yet?

The breaker bar is just a loooong handle for a socket so you can get a whole lot of leverage to "break" loose a really tight bolt. You'll also hear about "cheater" bars - which are extensions (often just a short piece of pipe) that you slip over the breaker bar to make it even longer for more leverage.

You should NOT need to use one to take out the drain plug though (and for God's sake don't put it back IN with one). It shouldn't have that much torque on it.... just good and snug so that the oil can't leak out.

The really weird one is when you change your differential fluid. You just stick the head of a 1/2" ratchet directly in the fill/drain plugs (in that order ).

Funny you should mention that... I just picked up an extra filter last night. I use the Mobil 1 filter, and the size that the X uses is fairly popular with the motorcycle crowd.. so AutoZone can't keep it on the shelf. After hunting like a wildman last time, I've resolved to just buy a handful (one at a time since that is all there ever is on the shelf) until I have a small set. I would love to do a group buy from a distributor, but I don't know if there is enough interest.

I will have to keep that in mind. I am still breaking in the engine, and the Dino Oil that I am using (Mobil Clean 5000) does not seem to come in 5 qt. containers. Once I move to synth oil (somewhere north of 10K) I will try it your way

I didn't remember to buy a filter wrench until after I took the skid plate off. So I used plan B - the channel locks. Since I hand-tightened the filter, I don't think I will need to get one (unless the next car I get needs it).

Funny you should mention that... that is exactly what I am using to hold the "drain oil" supplies.

Clearly we are on the same wavelength. The only thing I discovered while I was down there was that the undercarriage needs to be washed again.

MJ

Makes sense to me. Thanks!!!!

the mobil one filter is freakin $12 here!!! i'm going back to fram after this oil change...

http://www.earth911.org/master.asp

(anti-freeze)
http://www.earth911.org/master.asp?s=ls&cat=9&serviceid=3&type=-1

Based on what I have read, you can't get much better in terms of filtration ability.

I am trying to find out how much of that price (I pay $11) is profit and how much is cost to the retailer. Assuming that there is a good margin (and I would assume that there is) I would start buying by the case and selling off my excess. I am waiting to hear back from someone at Mobil to find out what the deal is...