On my 2000, the fresh air intake in front of the windshield had the holes mostly blocked by plastic. I don't know if it was intentional for the molding to do that, but it restricted the flow of fresh air from outside to the vent system. Instead, it would pull warmer air from the engine bay.

What I did was to take a drill (using a bit slightly smaller in diameter than the width of the squares) and pop out the thin plastic in each of the holes. This worked remarkably so that the air flow from the vents was the same temperature as the outside air. 57F outside air, 59F coming from the vents. 75F outside, 77F coming from the vents. It was consistently 2 degrees F warmer on the inside, but it was not a detectable difference by my hand, only be thermocouple.

HOWEVER, I have no idea what will happen when it first rains, or when it snows, etc.

TimR

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Interesting. I might try this, but I'll wait until after it rains or snows by you.

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Joe
No Officer, I'm not naked. I'm wearing my Xterra.

Ditto!

Used to have a car that would fill up the drivers side floor pan with water everytime it rained, making it very inconvenient going out in a suit.

But I look forward to hearing how you make out.

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2K1 XE Silver Ice 4x4
2 pack
Find all you need in your mind if you take the time. -DT
#3

Tell that thermo-couple to get their clothes back on and get a room. Hehe.

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X_tempore
2000 Aztec Red SE 4x4

I noticed that the holes were blocked on mine as well a few days ago. Most other cars do not have this, so I don't see where poking them thru would be a problem. But then again, why are they like that!?

------------------
"Why do today what you can put off untill tomorrow?"

I took a look at quite a few vehicles here in the parking lot over lunch. The vast majority had fresh air intake grids with aperatures larger than the drilled out holes on my Xterra, so I'm not too worried about pine needles, etc.

The system can still move air with the holes plugged, only it is warm air.

It is a large PIA to me to have to run the A/C just to get ambient temp air in the cabin.

Tim

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I was thinking of insulating the airbox and any conduits, but haven't really spent the time to look into it.

Certainly a layer by the tunnel, too - since that gets pretty warm, especially on a hot day in traffic.

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01 SE 6cyl 5spd Solar Yellow

Tim, put a garden hose running on your air intake vent for about a half hour.... fan running a/c on etc....
then come back and post the results.
I want to know now, so I can do mine this weekend,,, if everything stays dry that is... hehe



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My wife calls it the "Intrepid Bee", I call it "Tonka".
craigs-tonka@home.com
www.azxterraclub.com

That would would be air intake for the heater/blower here folks! NOT the engine intake - you do that for a half hour and I'll request some video footage w/ sound.

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Cheers!, -John
NCCX http://www.geocities.com/norcal_clubx

I don't think the extra capacity would jeopardize getting water into the cabin - unless the drainage of the air intake system can only handle X amount of water... It should work just fine.

Of course, I'd like to know how it works out - this would be a nice, simple, EXTERNAL fix.

Yeah, and if anyone does this to the engine's intake, I'll take a copy of that video tape, too... Hee.

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01 SE 6cyl 5spd Solar Yellow

Well, TimR it rained here in the Twin Cities. Did you get water in the cabin of your truck? Readers want to know.

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Great trucks are made, not born. -- Mr Chony

http://www.gpxo.org

Got Spark?

Or you can turn your A/C on for a few seconds (until it blows cold) and then turn it off. Presto - cool air from the outside. I assume turning on the A/C flips a 'door' or something to allow outside air in.

This is what works for me. Curious to know if it works in other X's.



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Nope, the A/C doesn't activate any flap. If you have the recirc button off you get fresh air, if it's on you get cabin air, A/C on or not.

Brent

there is actually a design plan for that. The air is MEANT to come a little more from the engine bay area. All cars are designes so that if the climate control system were to go on the fritz, then the default mode would allow the fresh air to pass into the ducting, and blow out the defroster vents and the floor. The reason for this is that if you are in the winter, and the climate system dies, it allows warm, dry air to blow on the windshield, keeping it from fogging up. So it isn't a design flaw, it is a design intention.....lol

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If the default mode is to allow the fresh warm air, to blow on the windshield, keeping it from fogging up. Why cant you put warm (defrost) air on the windshield when it's not on the fritz? Why does the A/C come on even if the button is in or out?

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Gator Saver
2000 Blue SE 4x2
Florida Xtreme Xterras
------------
Real Men Wear Kilts

Gator Saver-
Having the AC come on in defrost mode will usually clear the windows faster. I forget the exact temperature that it kicks in, something around 45 f. or so. It is a typical setup on most vehicles.
With a little clever work behind the HVAC controls you could dissable this feature. A procedure was posted a while ago.

dave and xtoy - sometimes foggy glass is good

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The purpose of the compressor comming on in defrost mode is to dehumidify the air comming out of the vents. Dehumidified air will clear a windshield faster than high humidity air. The air passes across the AC evaporator, dehumidifying it, then across the heater core to warm it. Remember, if the ac system goes on the fritz, even the compressor won't come on. Its not a perfect system, but better to have warm air on the floor and windshied in the cold climate areas, than no air or even cold air......

------------------

I searched, but couldn't find anything, do you know who posted the procedure? Probably Electroken..



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Mike.
01 XE Auto - Solar Yellow

Ah, cool air blowing from the vents! It really makes a difference. Spent 15 minutes with a cordless drill and I no longer have hot air heating the cabin in the summer. The change is dramatic. The hot air was probably the biggest complaint I have had with the truck. No longer!

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To live is the rarest thing in the world. Most
people exist, that is all. - Oscar Wilde

I noticed the blocked vent holes a few months after I bought my X, and pocked em in. It's been about 8 months and no probelms, rain and all... I'm just suprised no one mentioned it sooner???

Ahhhh cool air...

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Huey
2001 SE, Silver Ice, 4X4, 5-Speed

Walrus -
I guess I'm better at searching than you are.

check this link:
http://home.us.net/~stimpy/xterra/misc/defrost.txt

I can't say if the procedure will work on all years.

dave and xtoy - seek and ye shall find

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Okay, drove around in the rain this weekend.

Tried all fan settings, A/C on and off, all different vent settings. Nothing strange, Worked great.

TimR

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Thanks Dave. I'll post the results for my 2001. I'm gonna try it right now.

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Mike.
01 XE Auto - Solar Yellow

Awesome!

I feel a mod coming on.

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01 SE 6cyl 5spd Solar Yellow

Piece of cake. I've got pictures too!

[img]http://image.photoloft.com/opx-bin/OpxFIDISA.dll?src=/photoloft/asset16/2001/06/04/6976/6976494_0_4600.fpx,0,0,1,1,640,480,FFFFFF[/img]

This view shows where I mounted the microswitch, as per the instructions. It was mounted in the same hole, but on the underside of the white plastic.

[img]http://image.photoloft.com/opx-bin/OpxFIDISA.dll?src=/photoloft/asset16/2001/06/04/6976/6976489_0_3309.fpx,0,0,1,1,640,480,FFFFFF[/img]

This picture shows where the microswitch was, on the two protrusions in the middle of the image. The black piece in the middle is moved by the control knob, and presses the switch when at the defog positions.

ALSO: I drilled out the plastic squares on the windshield cowl, and then took the hose to it. All the water I could throw in there promptly exited behind the mud flap onto the front of the side step rail.

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Mike.
01 XE Auto - Solar Yellow

[This message has been edited by Walrus (edited 06-04-2001).]

Stupid images...

[This message has been edited by Walrus (edited 06-04-2001).]

I see now, thanks

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Gator Saver
2000 Blue SE 4x2
Florida Xtreme Xterras
------------
Real Men Wear Kilts

Hmm, I seem to recall my switch had about half a dozen wires coming off of it, but that was ages ago. Same difference though.

Brent

For those that did the cutting, how's it holding up? Just looking for a "status report" on if you've had any problems, etc.

Thanks!

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Join the Heartland Xterra Owners Club at www.hxoc.net

At the X Plant tour I saw that a few X's have wire under there plastic. The owners of the X's got them in June July. I got mine in Feb and my plastic holes are blocked. Is this something they changed later on in 2000 ??

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Gator Saver
2000 Blue SE 4x2
Florida Xtreme Xterras
------------
Real Men Wear Kilts

No problems here. I did test the openings with a hose but the water all drained out behind the front mud flaps. The air is definitely cooler than before. However, it is 90 in Denver today so cool is relative.

------------------
To live is the rarest thing in the world. Most
people exist, that is all. - Oscar Wilde

So, what is the final verdict for those that have done this mod? Is there truly a noticable difference in temperature after the vent holes have been enlarged? I really hate the fact that the air blows through warmer than it should, but I really don't want to spend the time and effort drilling out my truck if the result isn't that noticable.

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The air is definitely cooler and more comfortable. The time and effort are negligible - probably less than a 20 minutes with a cordless drill. Worth it for me.

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"Lisa, if you don't like your job you don't strike. You just go in every day and do it really half-assed. That's the American way."

I'm not clear on where you guys are drilling the holes. And how many holes are you drilling? Pardon my ignorance...

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2000 Yellow SE 4x4 5 Speed

"Never judge a person's horsepower by his exhaust."

Hank - look in front of the windshield wipers and you will see a grid pattern of squares. The bottom of each square needs to be poked or drilled out to allow greater airflow into the intake vents.

------------------
Look what I did to you ... AGAIN!!!

Well, I've been waiting for someone to post, "Don't do it!" but nothing so I guess I'll give it a shot.

Thanx guys.

------------------
'01 SE Silver Ice 4X4

I drilled out the holes about a week ago, and really havn't noticed any diff in the temp. Of course it's been 110 here, but at night when it cools down to 90, the outside temp feels much cooler than what is comming out of the vents. Which in itself is a real sad statement.

Any one have any other suggestions?

Andy

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Punched mine out yesterday, quite an improvement. Nothing like an easy fix.

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Ok...I got the drill out today and went to do this mod, but I found some things perplexiing. On the driver's side, the squares in front of the wipers didn't have anything for me to drill, just this screen type thing. Now when I went to the passenger side, I saw that there was a piece of plastic under the screen (the plastic piece was not as wide as the screen), so I drilled some holes in there (just some since I didn't know if I was doing the right thing)...did I do this mod right or should I drill more holes? Or should I drill holes in the screens? Help!!!

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2000 Yellow SE 4x4 5 Speed

"Never judge a person's horsepower by his exhaust."

[This message has been edited by Hank (edited 06-23-2001).]

So all of the drilling needs to be on the passenger side seeing there doesn't seem to be anything to drill except screen on the driver's side? But from what you said Paul, I shouldn't drill the plastic under the screen on the passenger side as this will suck in water and debris...but some on this thread have mentioned that water and debris have not been a factor in this mod. Still confused on what to drill and what not to drill...

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2000 Yellow SE 4x4 5 Speed

"Never judge a person's horsepower by his exhaust."

GHETTO!!! I've made this mod a lot more difficult than it was intended to. I think I've got it now --- logic has finally set in. Was I supposed to just drill the squares on the screen creating square openings instead of the plastic covering up the squares? When I say plastic covering the squares I mean, the plastic looking like crosshairs going across each square...

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2000 Yellow SE 4x4 5 Speed

"Never judge a person's horsepower by his exhaust."

How does one remove the plastic between the hood and windshield anyway? I don't see any way to do it. Also looks like I'd have to remove the wiper arms, but that too looks like a trick.

Brent

*paul, why? Is there something odd/useful/dangerous we should know here? I ask because it seems to me the grid in mine (undrilled as of yet) has molding errors. A few of the vent holes are fully open, some are partially open, many are completely plugged, and there doesn't seem to be any clear pattern as to which are open and which are not. This randomness leads me to the conclusion that Nissan has some minor flaws in their manufacturing of this part that they choose to ignore.

Just curious. Pro AND con info is always useful, you know?

And I agree... a picture is worth a thousand words here. Anybody want to post a couple?

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Matt
2001 SE Solar Yellow 5 speed

[This message has been edited by XterraIncognita (edited 06-24-2001).]

Are we all talking about the same part of the vent? A few before / after photos here would really help. Anyone with a digital camera handy?

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I'll take some pic's at lunch. I'm *fairly* sure I know what you guys are talking about... Haven't drilled yet myself, but will soon. Actually I'll probably use a dremel tool, should be easier.

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Join the Heartland Xterra Owners Club at www.hxoc.net

There is a pic or two that might be of some interest here You can at least see some of what is under the plenum.

Brent

One would have to be spectacularly ham-fisted to drill through the covering of the fan. The holes are no bigger than the holes that were originally molded into the grate, just a poor molding job left them partially plugged. One really could spend 5 minutes with a rusty nail to pop out the "chads", there is not need for a drill, except that it is a cleaner hole.

This, of course, is completely different for those of you with screens under the plastic grate.

TimR





------------------

Those pic's don't show at all what should be drilled. Sorry, I don't have a digital cam - but if you can look at just about any car parked next to yours and see the nice open intake grate - then look and see if where your Xterra has the holes not fully cleared - it should be obvious.

TimR





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OK, I have some pic's here that someone else can annotate for the correct spot to drill. http://linux.thoughtprocess.net/~chrismc/bezel/

The thumbnails are linked to very high-resolution images. If you need the photo hosted, email it to me and I'll post it on my site.

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blah!

[This message has been edited by Caver-X (edited 06-25-2001).]

Beautiful. The second pic - see all the molding chads? Pop 'em out.

TimR





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Did you say "chad's"? Exactly what type of chad is that...?

------------------
blah!

Obviously the molding tech for that part was a transplanted floridian.

TimR





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CaverX (thanks for the pics),
Doesn't look like yours has been drilled yet. I have now figured why I made this mod confusing. My X was made in Nov. 99, and all of the squares on my X have holes in them already...so I guess some of the X's came with these grates non-drilled? Can anyone back me up on this? I do have the screens under the grates on the passenger and driver's side, but I can see through them right now (meaning I can see the screen underneath and into the area behind the firewall and dash). I guess it's not necessary for me to do this mod...

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2000 Yellow SE 4x4 5 Speed

"Never judge a person's horsepower by his exhaust."

Congrats, yours was made correctly. I tend to think that the ones that look like mine have a molding flaw, whereas if you don't have the pieces inthere (like yours), those are made correctly.

------------------
blah!

The early Xterras were done that way. There were several changes made to the 2000 production line. There are several notes in the ESM referencing "early production model"-specific differences.

Brent

if you are concerned, try attaching a small piece of screen to the palstic underneath. That would server to protect the plenum from trash.

------------------
Pains heal,
Chicks dig scars,
and glory lasts forever

On the passenger side, almost all of the "holes" were blocked and needed to be poked thru. On the drivers side the half closest to the middle also were almost entirely blocked. After pushing these thru with the drill, the temperature really went down and is just slightly warmer than the outside temperature. When the temp is over 90, it still blows hot air unless you turn the AC on. This really works great! No need to have warm air blow thru when it is <70 degress out.

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'01 Silver Ice SE 4x4 Automatic V6

Wow.

Most of mine are open or at least "semi" open. I'm gonna ream 'em out and see what gives. It would be nice to get some cool air on these cool summer mornings.

I LEARNED something useful today!

Wa-hoo!

------------------
"Xterra Pride"
"all your beer are belong to us"

I found punching worked better than drilling. I used an allen wrench.

------------------

My Makita died on me while doing the mod, but I kept punching it through with the drill bit anyway- it worked fine AND...

It's nice and cool with the fan blowing now!

I really wondered why it had been blowing so hot- my old Nissan P/U was never that hot. This was one of the only things about the X that bugged me. Solved. Great!

-Lars

Thanks for this tip!!

I used an Xacto knife, and labouriously trimmed each tiny square. It seemed like a good idea at the time, and it certainly extended my beer-drinking

I figure my vent-squares were 70% blocked by lousy molding. Trimming went easily.

The difference was very noticeable, say after work. Incoming air was no longer noticeably warmed. Nice!

However, if I park at a store for a few minuts, something seems to get heat-soaked. Then, the incoming air is warmed up, just as it was before So, under "hot-restart" conditions, I still have to run the A/C for a minute or two in order to eliminate whatever heat-soaking is happening.

Overall - I like cheap mods like this.

-GordP

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Question?? If I leave the button on the A/C controls pushed in... (The button that allows recirculated or fresh air in the cabin).. and the AC and Fan off.. I get NO hot air coming in.. My question is Is there any harm with leaving that button pushed in all the time??

------------------

Go back to your local Nissan dealer and look at all the Xterra's on the lot, when I did I noticed that NONE of the squares, openings, whatever they are were molded the same. Seems like some poor QC in that area of the plant. I have an early model 2k however all the X's I looked at were 01's....so I'm doubting that this problem was ever corrected in the later models.

------------------
2000 Solar Yellow XE V~6 4x4 that runs like a dream and has had zero problems ever

Aloha,

With the recirc on and the fan off, you're blocking all airflow through the system. Either the fan or the outside air pressure will cause air to come from the vents. The A/C button has nothing to do with it.

No harm.

Brent

[This message has been edited by OffroadX (edited 07-04-2001).]

Why is this thread showing new when it hasn't had a post in nearly 2 months (until this one)?

Brent

I believe this was a thread from the past...
But MY 2000 has ALL the little squares OPEN..never had a problem, never saw a problem, I think many of (us) saw a defect in manufacture, and ignored it.. 2000 early ship- OK----,
pictures available on request
jb johnbayne@hotmail.com

check this out http://www.nissanoffroad.net/frontier/cowl/default.asp

Ok so I have been putting this off for months now and I finally got around to doing it on my own Xterra. I saw open holes in the 2002 models at the dealership today so I decided to just do it.

All and all I would say it works well. I think my numbers came in a little higher than they should since I had been driving the truck for some time before doing all this work. Maybe I will measure again in the morning to see if the temps get closer to ambient. Anywho, these are my measurements from a thermocouple. (Error +/- 2F)

Tests conducted 9/7/01 11:45pm
Ambient Temp: 82F

BEFORE punching out the holes
45mph Vent OPEN - 102F

45mph Vent OPEN with A/C - 64F

AFTER punching out the holes
45mph Vent OPEN - 91F

45mph Vent OPEN with A/C - 52F

Not that spectacular but still nearly 10 degree drop by punching out the holes. I will try again when the Xterra isnt so hot.

Xavier, did you remove the piece to do it or not? Which method did you use, drill, exacto knife. Let me know as I will likely be doing this one tomorrow.

I cleared mine out yesterday with my RotoZip. I'll tell ya, that thing has become my X mod savior tool! Took me about 5 minutes to clear mine out. I figure they were almost 90% blocked! The long drive last night was noticeably much cooler!

Thanks for the reminder DVS1, I've had my rotozip for over a year and only used it a couple times. I'm always looking for ways to justify my tool purchases. I guess I just found one more.

I followed the Frontier link noted above and viewed the pictures ...

On my '01 X, there are NO holes in any of the molded squares ... you can see where the holes are 'dimpled', but they weren't punched through to open them up ...

Do I need to take the cowl pieces off to drill them out or can I drill them 'in place' ? ...

Secondly, if drilled in place, will the debris caused by the drilling and left in place under the cowl lead to future problems ? ...

I'm sure this is covered somewhere in the multitude of posts, but could someone just give me the Readers Digest Condensed Version ?? ...

Thanks

[ 09-09-2001: Message edited by: pepper kay ]

Pepper Kay,

I just punched the holes in place. I didn't drill em, just poked them through with a small phillips screwdriver and they have stayed open thus far. Also, no problems to date with outside debris getting into the system. However, I think if you drilled them, the debris would just wash out with rainwater (hose water) through the exit channels down by the front mudflaps.

I just saw this post and ran out and punched my holes with a screwdriver. I can't tell a diff. yet.

I ended up having to wash the X from the plastic being blown all over by the RotoZip. With the wind and today's rain, I haven't noticed any debris leftover from yesterday.

not to be a tech geek, but even the 2002 vent is poorly designed. they obviously were trying to save $ by intergrating the metal screen & plastic vent but holes that small become very inefficent at higher speeds. even as is, the surface area covered by plastic is huge compared to the open '00 design.

the higher the speed, the bigger the holes need to be to suck in air. true, the base of the windscreen is a high pressure zone but i think if you still punched out the holes and added a metal screen you would see even better a/c & venting performance.

Sorry to bump the old thread, but figured some of the 02 owners and newbies here might like this mod

Wow, interesting to see the last day of that old thread..

Good idea.. This mod worked great for me, and it is offically hell down here so if it works in Charleston, it should work for you as well..

Okay, I tried searching, but no good...

Any info out there on the removal process for that plastic piece? I know it's on XOC somewhere!

You must not be trying very hard. Here

I finally got around to doing this Thursday night. Definitely an improvement!

Brent

After the plant tour we went to Action Nissan in Nashville to discuss technical matters and this came up. There is a bulletin in Nissan's "Assist" system on this problem. It says to replace the cowling with an improved design (this in no good if you have already drilled yours, like I have done). So, if you don't want to drill yours, you could go for the replacement cowling. The Nissan folks on the tour also told us that this problem has been "engineered" out of the 2003 model.

First off, how's Chattanowhere these days (my home town)? Second, do you have any more info on that bulletin? Would I go to my dealer and ask that they look it up in "assist" or what. Thanks....

That's what I'd really like to know.

Please

FWIW, there is a TSB which specificly address the problem of excessively warm air thru the vents. It only applies to the 00 & 01 X's and Frontiers. Have your dealer look up in the ASSIST for 2000 Xterra, Heater/AC section and excessive heat. Up pops a bulletin w/ part #'s for the new grille's. If your still under the 3 yr/36k miles warranty it's a Free fix.

Does anyone have a picture of this "new grille?" I'd like to see what they've done to it... Or even more so the 2003 one. I'm curious now, having done a "partial fresh air mod" today.

First, Chattaboogie is rocking this week with the Riverbend Festival going on (if you know any Blues Traveler fans coming for their show tell them that the "lot" will be at Coolidge Park). As for the "Assist" system, the folks at Action Nissan said that your dealer can access it. Actually getting them to do it may be another thing.

The bulletin # is NTB02-031, which will give part #'s of 66811-9Z001 for L. side and 66810-9Z001 for right side cowling.

I can also install them for round trip air faire and cold beer in the 'fridge.

FYI, originals are listed as 66810-9Z000 and 66811-9Z000.

Brent

Does anyone recall seeing exactly what they've done to the 2003 in this regard?

For those of you with late-model 2002's - do you guys have these "chads" in there, that we're all talking about?

I'm considering maybe retrofitting the X with these later-model parts, just to have a cleaner install... I'm anal like that, and hell, they can't be that expensive...

Should run you $30-$40.

Brent

What I want to know is how to turn the air off completely. Even with the fan set to zero, I get air coming through the vents. I don't always want air coming through, but there it is. I don't want to just redirect it, I want to close off the vents, but I can't. That's my beef.

By design, I believe all cars have a natural draft going at all times, even when "off." I think the solution for us X owners was to hit the "recirc" button.

I haven't really noticed, but I think that when "off" mine actually is... I'd have to go check right now, LOL... I was actually thinking about this this morning (X on the brain, heh) now that I've done the "fresh air mod." That is... In the Winter, now that there's more fresh air and none of the pre-heated air... Does that mean cold air buzzing through the cabin?

I opened up mine last fall, didn't feel any different during the winter, but I did notice the windows didn't fog as easy (with the fan in the off position)

Cool... That's one of the most important side-effects I was hoping for from this mod. The cooler fresh air should result in less condensation on the windows without having to resort to A/C as much. Woohoo!

Its not a perfect solution, the side windows still get foggy, can't say if they clear quicker. I've been meaning to do the A/C mod > manual control over the A/C even in defrost mode < Brent posted it a good while back

Thanks to all of you that posted the "Assist" info as well as TSB#. I took it in today w/ 2K to spare and they had no problem looking it up and authorizing the work. I get the new cowling tomorrow morning. I looked at the 02's on lot and they all had the same F'd up looking "Chads" as my 00'.

Yup, air can flow through unless you turn the recirc button on.

Brent

FYI for Canadian Owners.. U.S. TSB #NTB02-031 for this mod doesn't exist here... our number is #NTSB01-107

Our original part numbers don't match either, but the replacement part does (66811-92001 , 66810-92001) but it may have to be ordered under -92000

Even though I cut most of mine open.. my dealer is still going to order & swap the cowel for me.

Had the cowl replaced today. Its an improvement over what it was but I'll still end up cutting the chads out of this one.

Really?! Can you be more specific, or post photos?

I just made an appt. with my dealer for this fix, along with fixing the alignment, and a small windshield leak. I'd hate to lose my carefully "de-chadded" cowls to another POS!

I can post a pic tonight. Easy enough to describe though, the "chads" on the new one are very precisely cut into four identical squares per block. The old ones were jagged or blocked off entirely throughout the square. It is an improvement no doubt but the weather here is in the upper 60's and I still got a warmer than outside temperature flow. The fix works to a degree, I was just thinking that it would work better than it did. You have nothing to loose by getting it done as it takes about 10 minutes.

replaced w/ 66811-9z001 top left
66810-9z001 top right

I love having time to read seven page posts on things like this while at work. I'll be going to the dealer to get this fixed shortly. I am nearly at 36k, but have the 100k extended warranty so I should be good.

Thanks All

Ahhh, okay. Sounds like the chads this time are just better formed, but still block most of the air... Hmmmm.

I'm already done and de-chadded, so I'm not sure I'm gonna do it. Cutting them all out was a bitch and a half!

I would like to get a new snap-pin for one corner though - it gave up the ghost after a few de/installations.

I think I'll wait until I see the pix - if you could post 'em or Email 'em to me that would be awesome, and much appreciated.

Post them, with 7 pages on this subject, I think we all want to see the new ones.

* I do appologize for the pix, new camera (Sony DSC-F 707) and new to imagestation

Thanks for these pics. They do look "Cleaner" and look like it would work better, but you say it's still blocking air? Maybe then I will just punch out my own. Again, Thanks.

With the info provided in the last few posts I got my cowling replaced by my dealer with the new-style one.

Warranty fix, zero dollars. 3 days for the new cowling to arrive after my phone call asking them for the fix and 1 hour in the service department getting the swap made. Kudos to Streeter Nissan of Reno. Anyway...

The "chads" in the new one are, as previously stated, much better formed and in my estimation wouldn't block as much air as one of the malformed original cowlings did. However, they will probably block more air than one that has already had the "de-chadding mod" done to it.

My take...

If you have already de-chadded and are happy with the results, don't bother getting the new cowling.

If you are thinking about de-chadding and haven't done it yet, get the new cowling and try it out first. If you still want to go the de-chadding route after trying the new cowling out for a while, the design of the "chads" in the new cowling will make de-chadding a little easier to accomplish. It has only 4 attachment points per "chad" (vs. the old cowlings' 8 attachment points per chad) to take the razor blade to.

THAT is a lot of chads my friends.

What happened to the pics?? I'd like to see myself. I have a 2002, and the little holes are neatly formed, but tiny. I may drill some of mine out as well.